91 CRX Si ITA Build

[Tom Blaney]

What an opening!!! But I won't

[raffaelli]

We have to keep you guys separated?

LOL

[raffaelli]

I poked around a bunch of car this past weekend at Limerock. Thank you to those that took a few minutes out of their day to educate me.


What is recommended for the thermostat? Use OEM, change temp, remove?

[Tom Blaney]

Use any good quality (parts house or OEM), and if possible try and get a 165 or 180 degree. Make sure your bleed the system of air before you start it, and then once again after the first warm/cool down session (in the garage or on the track)

[raffaelli]

Thank you Tom. I will start with the 165. This is tonights project! Looking to knock some of the rust off with a few laps around the block this weekend. Been a long time since the car has run.

[bonespec]

Autozone used to carry a 170 degree Tstat.

Also note, unless tuned out via the ECU, your in cold start loop until 165-170 F, 180 is perfect H2O temp.

Start getting around 195 and the ECU starts pulling timing.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the input. I didnt get to work on the car yesterday. I will get to it tonight.





Do 225 wide tires fit on this car?

[Xian]

Do 225 wide tires fit on this car?
[/b]

Mine do. 14x7's with 225 Hoosiers. You'll need to thoroughly roll both the front and rear fender lips in order for them to fit. Offset will also be very important as clearance is tiiiiight on the rears.

Christian

[raffaelli]

Thanks. Do you know what the offset range should be?

[Xian]

I got my TD's from Tom @ OPM... Link

They're 14x7's with 38mm offset that weight 11.5lbs. I run a very thin (2 or 3mm??) spacer in the rear to keep the tires off the trailing arm. OPM typically has the wheels and spacers (if needed) in stock.

Christian

[jlucas]

Here's a general question for all you CRX guys. Is it getting hard to get parts at all?

[Gregg]

I've never had an issue sourcing anything I've needed.

[spnkzss]

I've never had an issue sourcing anything I've needed.
[/b]

And he would know....

I'm sorry Gregg, but you've been dormant for too long. You come back and all the pent up wise craking releases in a flood.

[Tom Blaney]

Based on Gregg's past performances, he has to buy things in "BULK" so product availabilty issues might not reflect what he seems to do....

[Xian]

I've never had an issue sourcing anything I've needed.
[/b]

Same here.

[Gregg]

And he would know....

I'm sorry Gregg, but you've been dormant for too long. You come back and all the pent up wise craking releases in a flood. [/b]

Based on Gregg's past performances, he has to buy things in "BULK" so product availabilty issues might not reflect what he seems to do.... [/b]

Yup...motors, hardened hubs, suspension pieces, core supports, front crossmembers, radius rods, fenders, hoods, tailights, headlights, wildly illegal camshafts (uhhh....kidding with that one...REALLY! ), I've never had a problem getting what I needed very quickly.

BTW--I love you guys.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the input.

I have not had a problem locating parts. Some of the Honda forums are full of parts. Been able to find some body parts in the junk yards. I hit the dealer for the small things.





I started the car! It has been sitting dormant for 15 months! What a huge relief. Well, at second thought...I would have preferred it didn’t work so I can send it off to Blaney's shop. I wasn't so lucky this time.

I turned on the car and with about 30 seconds of cranking it turned over. After a few minutes I smelled gas. I did not work on the gas lines or tank at all. But I had my gorilla hands in there changing the T stat and heater core hoses and such. I turned off the car and found that the drivers side of the engine compartment was wet with gas and there was a wet spot in the floor under the engine about 18" in diameter. I checked all the hoses, thinking maybe I dislodged the return line. I could not find the leak. I cleaned up the engine and soaked up the floor with kitty litter and went to bed.

Next night I tried it again. I could not reproduce the problem. No leaks at all. Raced the engine, idled it, shut it off and on trying to get some fuel to leak. Nothing. The clamps and hoses seem fine. Any ideas?

[Tom Blaney]

check the end of the fuel rail where the end cap is, also check the rubber lines by bending them with the key on but motor not running.

Don't run until you find something that kind of problem doesn't fix itself (unless you consider a melted pile of junk fixed alright). Rubber lines can crack from age or get nicked during install, but on driver side I'd suspect fuel rail

[raffaelli]

Thanks. I will poke around again tonight.

[bonespec]

check the return line at the fuel pressure regulator.......