Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: burning out alternators

  1. #1
    ACKER323 Guest

    Default

    [font=Arial][font=Arial][font=Arial] I have a 89 civic si and i keep burning out my alternators. When i was at nelsons last weekend during a session the charge light came on and my 6 month old bosch premium was toasted. I took it to the local autopart store and they bench tested it and said it was the diodes. Is there any quick solutions so i dont have to replace alternators twice a year. Some say i should underdrive it but will the pulleys actually underdrive it enough. Thanks guys i am really interested on how the endurance civics kept their alternators alive.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Somewhere in NC
    Posts
    969

    Default

    how r u wiring your cutoff switch?
    Evan Darling
    ITR BMW 325is build started...
    SM (underfunded development program)
    SEDIV ITA Champion 2005
    sometimes racing or crewing Koni Sports Car Challenge

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Eastlake, OH USA
    Posts
    25

    Default

    I have been having the same problem. Kill switch on 3 Civics are wired properly, I even have the drivers kill the electric fuel pump and igntion prior to turning off the kill switch.

    I hve been told by my rebuilder (who is tired of warranty repairs) that the diodes are susepable to buning de to units running at high rpm and suddenly dropping to low rpm repeatedly.

    I don't have and answer yet. He is working on producing a singe wire version that he thinks will do the trick. I hope so.

    Any better answers????

    Maurice
    MRL10

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
    5,252

    Default

    Bigger pulley to slow it down some?
    NC Region
    1980 ITS Triumph TR8

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Eastlake, OH USA
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Who did my proof reading??
    MRL10

  6. #6
    ACKER323 Guest

    Default

    At the moment i dont have a killswitch and i was explained the same thing reving to high an then its trying to charge at high revs and it blows. I am wondering if any of you guys have tried a pulley set to fix it about 200 bucks for the pulley set so i want some advice if underdriving it will work. It is right now a de only car. The local auto parts guys laugh about it but ehhhh although you can change them fast i want one that will last ,since last year at the 12 hours at nelsons the yellow civic went through 3 of them in 12 hours.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    For a car used on the street, the big pulley may not be that great a solution because it may not put out a charge just tooling around--it will need revs.

    The big pulley is helpful on the race track, but is not a cure-all. Heat and vibration also take their toll on alternators.

    My non-Honda would go through alternators quite regularly (1 and a half race weekends on average) until I installed the big pulley. However, I still occassionally still suffer a case failure (broken or loose case bolts) or a gradual failure I beleive is internal. These seem to be limited to once or twice a season. Perhaps it also has to do with the quality of the rebuilt alternators, which can be all over the place.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC US
    Posts
    1,626

    Default

    Your stock alternator puts out full charge at 800-1000 rpm and sees 3000 on a regular day. Now turn it 5000+ for extended periods and it will toast the diodes with the surges. Do the math and drop the rpm by 40% and you will be in the ballpark. Remember to figure %drop on the circumference and not the diameter of the pulley.
    Steve Eckerich
    ITS 18 Speedsource RX7
    ITR RX8 (under construction)

  9. #9
    ACKER323 Guest

    Default

    When we are talking big pulleys are we talking like unorthodox pulleys or really big pulleys that you guys got to work just by trial and error. Also, its a track only car barely any street usage.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    Mine was fabricated to give a 1 to 1 ratio with the crank pulley. Some thought has to be given here as to available belts--you obviously cannot use the original belt.

  11. #11
    ACKER323 Guest

    Default

    Well thats when the good old sewing tape measure comes into use to measure. I am just wondering for endurance usage and for lightness but first off i want to fix the problem. Joeg since going to a 1 to 1 ratio has your alternators seemed to be living longer any other problems with running htat big of a pulley.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
    5,252

    Default

    Do some searching on the net. I was able to find my stock Delco alternator with a large "race" pulley they called it already installed. I suspect someone has done this with stock Honda alternators as well.
    NC Region
    1980 ITS Triumph TR8

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    They indeed live longer with a big pulley, but scan up a few posts and you will see that you can still have problems.

    Frankly, I put alternators in a "wear" category about the same as brake rotors.

    Remeber that the IT rules do not allow one to use a race alternator; just an OEM with any kind of pulley.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •