Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Good Koni settings?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    127

    Default

    450# front springs, 350# rear springs, what are good settings for smooth tracks, bumpy tracks, autocross, towing? I assume full soft for towing. The car came with all 4 one full turn from full soft, using the low tech method (bounce the suspension by pushing down on each corner) the rear felt ok, but the front was bouncy, after putting all full stiff they are of course...stiff. But what is a good baseline for different scenerios? I believe the shocks are off the shelf so no revalving. (I didn't build the car)
    Driver School: Complete (April 2007)
    Regional License requirements: Complete (June 2007)
    Race Car: Renting, started building my own
    First Win: TBD (3rd in Pumpkin enduro! ITA)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    102

    Default

    First of all what car?

    My 16V Golf has 450# front and 475# rear with a BSI rear bar and no front bar.
    I have the double adjustables in front and the singles in the rear. The shock valving has evolved over time as the car got faster and my driving is getting better.

    If they are off the shelf Koni yellows then set them to the middle and go run a track day and get tire temps. Shock settings will change with camber and toe settings, track conditions, air presures, so on, and so forth........I don't think one persons specific settings will work for your driving style. If your car is a A2 then I would tell you to first increase the rear spring rate. But that would work for my driving style. I raced with a guy that had a very similar car as mine, one big difference is he was running 1000# rear springs and 950# fronts on LEDA shocks on custom valving. Very fast car, sorry driver, the last two owners of the car have resprung it. It is all about your driving style.

    When you have reached the point that they are all the way stiff then send them to Lee at Koni and have them revalved.

    Seat time is the best money spent on a race car bar none.

    My .02

    Jon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    127

    Default

    A1 GTI is the car, just looking for a recommended starting point.
    Driver School: Complete (April 2007)
    Regional License requirements: Complete (June 2007)
    Race Car: Renting, started building my own
    First Win: TBD (3rd in Pumpkin enduro! ITA)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    IT.com "First Loser" Greensboro, NC USA
    Posts
    8,607

    Default

    I think that, rather than looking for a recommendation, you'd be better off long-term by learning some things about how your particular package reacts.

    Start with both ends full soft and run a session. Then, before the next session, set everything to full stiff. It might even be possible to have someone change them mid-session if you have a buddy on the pit wall.

    Then, try front full stiff, rear full soft, and vice-versa (maybe on a different day by now). If you are like me, you might actually be able to feel the differences at this point. If you are particularly sensitive, you will then be able to make subsequently smaller adjustments and be able to feel them. I'm always amazed at drivers who can feel the results of really little changes since I just ain't that good.

    K

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    1,181

    Default

    What Kirk said + this >>> READ IT, LEARN IT, KNOW IT

    Koni Road Race Setup Instructions
    Bill Sulouff - Bildon Motorsport
    Volkswagen Racing Equipment
    2002, 2003, 2005 NYSRRC ITB Champs

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •