Best way to paint interior?

[gran racing]

A question about priming the interior - is it important? I'm not talking about bare metal, as I realize that should be primed before painting it.

If a person is spraying the car, priming it really does not take much extra effort or money. But if you do it out of a can...

Just curious what your thoughts are.

[lateapex911]

There are two big reasons to prime...

1- Bare metal requires a primer that inhibits oxidation. Body shops use etching primers on bare metals, then go to sandable primers.

2- Sealing and adhesion. Top coats adhere to primer better, and certain primers have sealing properties. In body work, the previous history of the cars paint can be unknown, and there can be some incompatable paints down there that could cause issues with the new paints, so primer/sealers are used. If smoothness is an issue, then a primer/surfacer could be used over that. Then color and clear.

Thats the proper way...

In the spray can world, it really isn't that important. Test a small are if you decide to go without a primer. Look for weird "fisheyes"..areas where the paint has adhesion and flowout troubles. It looks like...fisheyes..duh! ...or crazing ...or wrinkling or just weirdness. It could be caused by wax, grease, or the dreaded silicones from earlier products that are in the paints structure. Use a good degreaser ("PreKleeno" is the R&M version...or any real paint cleaner..NAPA sells one that's fine) first, of course, and buff the shine off with a green or red scotch brite pad and you should be fine without a primer.

If you do all that, and you still get "fisheyes"...it could be embedded silicones, and that could mean that you have to go all the way to bare metal. It's rare, and I doubt you care that much, LOL.


(If anyone has seen Dave's car (which I will point out was the highest finshing Prelude in ITB at the ARRCs) you know why fisheyes in the interior won't cause him a loss of sleep!)

[gran racing]

Here I was reading your reply and thinking that this was great information, then...highest finishing Prelude?!? Oh, that's messed up! Hey, it was really pretty at one point. When I did the bodyshop sponsor deal, I brought the car home and didn't even want to race it anymore.

Ah, you're so jealous Jake!! My Dupli-color and bondo heart goes out to ya.

[Conover]

I was over at RCR last week nosing around, and I noticed that they paint all thier interiors either White or grey gloss, and use black wrinkle paint on areas that could be sources of glare, rear hat tray, dash, A-pillar bars, and so-on. I think that the wrinkle paint is probably more cleanable than plain flat black.

[BobsAuto]

I'll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint. It won't be as heavy, will look good, and improve the grip of my racing slippers on the floor.

[snapback]67089[/snapback]

[/quote]

The trunk paint is also available in a wrinkle paint which is also good in high traffic areas. I saw mention of getting an orange that could be easily matched. Nason puts out a great industrial acrylic enamel....easy to use, shines really good, pretty chip resistant and comes in a state orange color used on the state vehicles here in NH. It is also economical and can be also put in the aerosol cans as I mentioned before.

[Jiveslug]

Originally posted by Bob'sAuto@Dec 13 2005, 03:28 PM
I'll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint.

[snapback]67089[/snapback]

Yeah, thats kind of what I was thinking. Ill probably do the interior of the car a lightish grey color and then put some grippy stuff down in the footwell area (and any others that see high traffic). Thanks for the help everyone!

Ryan

[cpa7man]

Originally posted by lateapex911@Dec 12 2005, 01:23 AM
There are two big reasons to prime...

1- Bare metal requires a primer that inhibits oxidation. Body shops use etching primers on bare metals, then go to sandable primers.

2- Sealing and adhesion. Top coats adhere to primer better, and certain primers have sealing properties. In body work, the previous history of the cars paint can be unknown, and there can be some incompatable paints down there that could cause issues with the new paints, so primer/sealers are used. If smoothness is an issue, then a primer/surfacer could be used over that. Then color and clear.

Thats the proper way...

[snapback]67892[/snapback]

I'm building a car now as well, I've been looking in on this thread from time to time. Very good info, but I'm a paint moron.

I'm going to soda blast, so I'll have bare metal. That light grey or a white sounds good for the interior. I'll need to spray the entire car and a full set of fiberglass fenders, I and was going to use an HPLV sprayer. My questions:
What primer would you recommend? (epoxy or ??, brand)
Then should I spray the interior with a different paint type?

The car will be professionally painted (I think) after the cage is installed and I mount the fiberglass.

[bldn10]

"full set of fiberglass fenders"

I hope you are talking about a prod car not IT.

[joeg]

I use Glasurit epoxy and their 22 line for single stage top coats of exterior surfaces.

Good paint; ex$pensive paint--especially all the hardners and reducers.

I would avoid blasting the interior unless the car is already stripped to a bare shell.

It's too much of a mess to clean up otherwise.


I would just scuff the interior paint (assuming you have removed all carpeting, tar, glue, etc.), etch or epoxy spot prime any bare metal and go right to top coat--Krylon is fine!

[cpa7man]

Originally posted by joeg@Jan 26 2006, 04:08 PM
I use Glasurit epoxy and their 22 line for single stage top coats of exterior surfaces.

Good paint; ex$pensive paint--especially all the hardners and reducers.

I would avoid blasting the interior unless the car is already stripped to a bare shell.

It's too much of a mess to clean up otherwise.
I would just scuff the interior paint (assuming you have removed all carpeting, tar, glue, etc.), etch or epoxy spot prime any bare metal and go right to top coat--Krylon is fine!

[snapback]72291[/snapback]

Thanks for the reply, yes car is stripped nothing left except pedals and steering wheel. Yes the car will be an EP car, my last one had a little mishap.

[JLawton]

Originally posted by bldn10@Jan 26 2006, 10:40 AM
"full set of fiberglass fenders"

[snapback]72277[/snapback]

I was wondering when that was gonna come up?

DUCK AND COVER!!!