Bill one more question, It looks like you mount from below the strut tower, can this camber plate be mounted to the top of the strut tower and have a 1" spacer made out of some space aged ultra lightweight illegal substace that would be made by only the finest CNC machine available?

Did I vote for the 200-250 range?????

Just a question???

Jon

Edit: Bill after sleeping on it I wanted to let you know that the no bind adjustment might have a adverse effect. I notice when I adjust my BSI plates, with the weight of the car on them, and add neg camber, a prybar and a light tap from a hammer is all that is needed to make that adjustment. Now taking camber out of the car is a different story. I have to jack the car up, pull the strut out further than necessary, let the car back down, settle the suspension, measure and then add neg camber back into the strut to the desired reading. Now if there was a no bind in this (the BSI) plate when I went to loosen the top two nuts the strut would just go slip to its most neg position.That would be a huge pain in the ass to try and make a adjustment, hold the camber tool and not let the strut slip at the same time. So a bit of tension between the plate and the upper bearing is heplfull. Now this might be a bit of a design problem but a adjusting bolt running from the adjusting plate/bearing the strut is fixed to and the blue plate would be nice for me.Turn the bolt one way adds camber, turn it the other takes camber out. A Delrin sheet may have just the perfect amount of tension but enough slip to make adjustments easy. Would you crush the sheet over time? Might just have to go to prototype and beta test before you know the answers. I would love to see at least the poss of 4deg of caster, I think the factory used between 1.5 and 2. I currently use 4 and love the way the car handles on higher speed tracks. I can have 16th total toe out and the car doesn't wander nearly as bad as other Golfs I have driven with 2 deg of caster. I would love to be able to adjust the caster but it is not completly necessary if you need to sacrafice strength or increase cost. I can measure it as I am building the strut tower and fix it at that time. How about some really good install instructions and pictures so the average racer can install them without a alignment/body shop having to do the work to get it right. I bet with some help from Tim L, Greg A, Kirk K we could come up with instructions that even NASA could understand.... :119: