A1 rear wheel alignment

[Sandro]

Watts Linkage - A rear axle lateral location system which employs a frame/body-mounted central pivoting attachment (bell crank) for two (2) lateral links, whose opposite ends are attached to either end of the axle housing or vice versa.

[rabbidmk1]

So let me get this straight... These bars help eliminate flex in the rear beam which cause a change in toe? Is it agreed that these help significantly (provided IT rules don't apply) with getting the car to rotate? And where can I find a write up on this or a decent explanation on how and more importantly where the mounting points are and why?

[racer14itc]

So let me get this straight... These bars help eliminate flex in the rear beam which cause a change in toe? Is it agreed that these help significantly (provided IT rules don't apply) with getting the car to rotate? And where can I find a write up on this or a decent explanation on how and more importantly where the mounting points are and why?

There's not 100% agreement that it's better. If you think about it, the rear beam flex is actually in the HELPING direction (toe OUT on the outside laden wheel) which helps the car to rotate.

I've never used the bracing on the rear beam, even on the F-prod car which will pull 1.4 G's in the corners.

MC

[rabbidmk1]

I seem to remember reading that discussion a few years ago. I have had lots of luck with just a rear Bildon bar and stock bushings, but now that I am on the way to Fprod and am installing the rear spherical bearings, lots of ideas like this are becoming more intriguing.

[Sandro]

Bill had me convinced when I read thisbottom of post)https://improvedtouring.com...ghlight=weight

but after thinking about it I realized what Mark said, that the flexing is actually helping you. I had heard of other people trying it without success, but theirs also mounted differently. After reading old articles of the Kamei rabbits and several others that all mentioned adding something similar and seeing that all the MK2 and on VWMS cars had them, I was undecided so I figured I might as well make them and try it out as otherwise I would always be left wondering(and that kills me, I have to try everything for myself). I will be taking the car to the track for the first time with them this weekend and plan on trying back to back runs with them on and off to see what I find.

[Flyinglizard]

Sandro, Your links are toe links, not a Watts link. A Watts has the bellcrank nounted on the axle. As stated, you will need to attatch them to each other to form a legal sway bar,IMHO. Just dont weld them to your car, as you may go slower, when you get done.
Any time that you reduce the active/dynamic toe out, you will lose speed potential. You cant change physics. I summerised the dynamics, in an earlier post.
I will soon have an excerpt from my "book"( windows doc), explaining the FWD racing dynamics, related to this area.
This is the first area to address(dynamic balance), for the ultimate speed of a FWD car. IMHO.
I have raced these cars for about 25 yrs. Road race and circle track.
Disclaimer... Some drivers dont like the feel of the rear tracking so far outside of the front. Most of these guys, you will see twice per race.
MM

[Sandro]

You are correct they are not a Watts Linkage, but they are traction bars:

1. Any anti-roll bar(s), traction bar(s), panhard rod or watts linkage may be added or substituted, provided its/their installation serves no other purpose.

Traction Bar - A longitudinal link to an axle housing or hub carrier which resists torque reaction from the driven wheel(s) by acting in compression or tension.


As far as the effectiveness you may be right, but for the $20 in heim joints that it cost me I though it was worth a shot.