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Thread: camber plates trying to leave the car...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
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    Of course I notice this just before I'm supposed to race at carolina motorsports park on the weekend.
    I had the camber plates custom made by a fellow swift racer in florida. He bolted the plates to the top of the cars strut towers. One of the bolts decided to push it's washer thru the cars sheet metal, so now the camber plate is no longer flush with the strut tower.
    I cannot reach the guy who did it as he has changed his number since I was in florida. I am wondering if it would be a problem if I just welded the camber plate to the car. I guess this would make it permanent, so I am not sure about doing this.
    I thought about getting a bigger washer, but not sure if this will be safe.
    "Racing is living, everything else is just waiting"
    Steve McQueen

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    Black Rock, Ct
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    Originally posted by zooracer@Aug 10 2005, 07:50 PM
    Of course I notice this just before I'm supposed to race at carolina motorsports park on the weekend.
    I had the camber plates custom made by a fellow swift racer in florida. He bolted the plates to the top of the cars strut towers. One of the bolts decided to push it's washer thru the cars sheet metal, so now the camber plate is no longer flush with the strut tower.
    I cannot reach the guy who did it as he has changed his number since I was in florida. I am wondering if it would be a problem if I just welded the camber plate to the car. I guess this would make it permanent, so I am not sure about doing this.
    I thought about getting a bigger washer, but not sure if this will be safe.
    [snapback]58206[/snapback]

    The best way, other than mounting the plate under the sheet metal, (where it likely wont fit and will screw up the shock travel,) is to make backing plates out of heavey stock, and weld the recieving nuts to it. Might have to shape it to fit, but the largest plate that will fit is the best way to go to distribute the forces.

    Essentially, a bigger washer....

    use good grade fasteners, and use lock washers where possible, under the fastener heads if you go with the welding of the nuts.

    Note, I am not an ME, and this is just one man,s opinion.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
    GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
    New England Region
    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  3. #3
    Guest_m glassburner_* Guest

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    Material may be added or removed from the top of the strut tower to facilitate installition of adjuster plate....long as it does not serve as reinforcement....My question is how and what the ???

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
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    Buffalo, New York
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    Really need a pic to see what you are actually talking about, but no problem welding it (assuming the plate material is weldable to the strut tower).

    Regards.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Belmont, CA USA
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    This is why I mounted the camber plates BELOW the shock tower, and just used a shorter spring.

    http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/2002...mber-plate.jpg

    Tim Linerud
    San Francisco Region SCCA
    #95 GTL Wabbit
    Convert from GP to GTL
    http://www.timlinerud.com/racing/index.html

    racer_tim @ yahoo dot com

  6. #6
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    Tim-I do the same thing!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
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    well the plates are aluminum, so I guess it will be a problem welding the two.
    Perhaps I will just invest in some good carrera units, or something like, and have them welded by a shop.
    thanks
    "Racing is living, everything else is just waiting"
    Steve McQueen

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Enfield, CT, USA
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    It appears I might be in the minority on this one, but the phrase in the rule about not providing any additional reinforcement kept me from welding in anything when my car had the same problem. I ended up making larger plates to distribute the load better but stopped short of welding them to the towers. That way they are part of the camber plate which is unrestricted and do not constitute adding material to the towers for reasons of reinforcement. Maybe some of the other rules nerds have some ideas but I would be careful about how much material you are going to put in before pulling out the welder.

    Just my 2 cents.
    ~Matt Rowe
    ITA Dodge Neon
    NEDiv

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    NC
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    Matt,

    I have Ground Control camber plates that bolt from the top side. What I did was make a flat plate out of 1/8" steel (with the center cut out) that was the exact size of the underside of the strut tower. It is installed on the under side and that became a big "washer" that prevents it from pulling through the strut tower.

    I can send pics if it will help,

    MC
    Mark Coffin
    #14 FP VW Scirocco
    Former ITC roustabout...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    Black Rock, Ct
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    MC, thats what I was saying, and IMHO, it's the best way, legally.

    The alum plates are fine....they just need a good backing setup. The COULD go under, but.....be carefulm if you don't have the proper length dampers, you could bottom them internally, and that is bad.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
    GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
    New England Region
    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    187

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    ok, great, the washer under the strut tower sounds like a great idea.
    Thanks
    "Racing is living, everything else is just waiting"
    Steve McQueen

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