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Thread: Load Equaliziation Hitch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
    5,252

    Default Load Equaliziation Hitch

    Tow an open 18' trailer with a 2600lb car. Vehicle is a 99 3/4 ton Suburban. I have some preinstalled tie down poins on the trialer that, upon further refelction, result in a bit too much tongue weight. While manageable, I wold like to correct.

    a. How much is the load equalization hitch?

    b. Will it help spread out tongue weight?

    Thanks.

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    hampden,ma.usa
    Posts
    3,083

    Default

    Originally posted by JeffYoung:
    a. How much is the load equalization hitch?

    b. Will it help spread out tongue weight?
    [/B]
    I honestly don't remember the price but they are a huge help. get big bars, i use 1200 pounds on my 24' enclosed. allows big tounge weight which make for more stable trailer.
    dick

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,381

    Default

    *JUST* bought one last month, so I can assist.

    <font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">How much is the load equalization hitch?</font>


    I bought the Draw-Tite 3202 (10,000/750 GVW dist hitch), 3279 head, and 3210 shank for right around $300 delivered. I also added the 26002 Reese dual-cam antisway control for another $160.

    I purchased all parts from http://www.cheaphitches.com

    Since my current tongue load is about 500 pounds, and my future needs will be about 750, I went with the 750 bars. However, it doesn't hurt to go too big, as you can adjust the load with the chains.

    <font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">Will it help spread out tongue weight?</font>


    Yes, depending on what you mean by that. The purpose of a load-equalizing hitch is to use spring bars to counteract the torque of a heavy tongue load. The springs try to "straighten out" the angle between the truck and trailer, bringing everything back to horizontal. It's taking some of that tongue load and torquing it back onto the front of the truck.

    I suggest going to Draw-Tite's web site and reading through there so you understand exactly how it works and what's required.

    http://www.draw-tite.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Black Rock, Ct
    Posts
    9,594

    Default

    And one more bit of advise. Get the Draw Tite as oposed to anothter brand. That way, when someone steals just the receiver part you can buy that part only, instead of the whole setup as I had to after that part was stolen......

    Everybody sells the Draw Tite, the others are much tougher to find locally.

    ------------------
    Jake Gulick
    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    ITA 57 RX-7
    New England Region
    [email protected]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks guys, this is precisely what I wanted.

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,381

    Default

    <font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">...when someone steals just the receiver part...</font>
    Jake, my friend, spend $15 more. It don't help none to padlock the tongue to the ball when someone can easily slide out your hitch and put it into their receiver.

    http://www.cheaphitches.com/store/catalog/...products_id=129

    (Of course, they could also unbolt the head from the shank, which is why I got really paranoid and welded mine on, AND I welded the ball nut onto the head...like I said: paranoid. Worst case, I gotta buy a new head and shank for ~$175.)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Marlborough, MA
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Greg, Why did you need to order the 3279 head with your hitch? Isn't that part of the 3202 package?

    Bill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,381

    Default

    Yup, I do believe you are correct. I think I was researching having a spare but never got it.

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