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Thread: Cage for Pinto

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
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    St. Louis, MO
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    Default Cage for Pinto

    Hey everyone in Ford land!

    I'm getting ready to start on a cage for a customers ITB Pinto. I've already got a pretty good idea of where to tie into for the hoop, downbars (in front of dash) and rear braces, but wanted to pick everyones brains to make sure my customer gets the best cage possible. Anyone have thoughts or pics to share on their cages?

    How are the pinto's cross weights? Any helmet clearance issues or seat mounting tricks?

    TIA


    ------------------
    Scott Rhea
    It's not what you build...
    it's how you build it

    Izzy's Custom Cages

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
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    Default

    I have seen several but would not know why you wouldn't build it like any other cage--tight along the pillars and the roof.

    Head room is more of a seat mounting and seat style selection issue rather than a cage issue if the cages are built "tight".

    Have fun!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
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    Default

    Scott,

    I hope I don't start a big mess with this thread, I'm just trying to learn something again. I was looking at the pics on your website and I was looking at the tri-link setup for the RX-7. How is that legal for IT? If you want to email me off line about it, I'm [email protected]. I'm NOT and I DON'T want to start some huge contest here, I'm just looking for an education, so anybody else who wants to answer I'd welcome the information. Maybe I should start another thread.

    Tom

  4. #4
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    Default

    Joeg... It'll be tight, that's for certain.

    Since I don't drive a Pinto, I'm looking for any insights that Pinto drivers might have like whether the factory seat mounts need to be 86'd or if there needs to be a little bit of layback, or section of the frame that's stronger/weaker etc.

    I don't have the car in the shop yet, but have taken a close look and got some measurements of one at a local wrecking yard.

    Tom... it's a traction bar. I'll email you off line, but I'm sure there's several discussions about it on this site.


  5. #5
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    I can't see Texas from here!
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    Tie the downtubes into the rockers if you can. Put the main hoop mounts as close to the front (leaf) spring mount boxes as you can. Tie the rear leaf mounts into the top of the main hoop at the halo bar tie ins. You probably can't cut holes in the dash to run the front downbars through like the modern cars, so just get them as close to the dash as you can. I'm 6' and when running backwards on banked oval, my head hit the halo bar when craning my neck to see around the corner. I wear a 34" inseam and my knees always hit the steering wheel in whatever I drive, so I used a smaller steering wheel and the seat needed to be lowered, as well as moved way back. Other than that, go for it and make sure we are kept updated.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Mark! That's just the info I was looking for! I'll definitely keep you guys posted.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
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    Atlanta, Ga
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    Scott,
    Thanks, I figured it was possibly a traction bar or panhard rod.
    Appreciate it,
    Tom

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I can offer a few thought that we used in both Pinto and Mustang III cars.

    We put the front set of the allowable mounts facing forward, essentially horizontal to the front wheel wells (floorboard bulge). From its contact with the front hoop, the horizontal door bar began. In this way, any movement of the front wheel/floorboard would be resisted by the cage, and any intrusion would be minimized.

    Also, the dash can be removed, trimmed and returned after the forward down tube is placed VERY far forward almost the the junction of the horizontal floor and the upward slope of the wheel well. The intention was to get as much of a larger "cage" around the driver as possible, extending as much forward, as the feet are when on the pedals.

    At the rear, the diagonals went to the rear spring mounts for crush protection, and the main hoop was on the raised floor where the rear seat had been. Nascar style door bars were used with cross bracing.

    Incidentally, Steering wheel removal devices for this car are available from Summit Racing for a VERY reasonable cost. It is a BOLT ON, in place of the steering wheel on the original splines, with mounts for either three bolt, or five bolt steering wheels. Solves the problem of entrance and exit. Unfortunately, it only fits earlier cars, not the late Mustang ('87 and up).

    Write if you need more information.

    whitehorseracing @aol.com

    Good racing.

    Bill

  9. #9
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    Hadn't read your response until today Bill! Sound's like I've got the pads in the same spots as you described for the same reasons!

    The customer didn't want the cage through the dash, so that's a little different.

    Thanks for the input!

    If anyone wants to see some pics... take a look at my "blog" until I can get the page done on my website.

    http://www.solo2.org/blogs/Speed%20Raycer/

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Anyone have a pic of what the cage looks like going through the dash?

    How would this be done?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
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    buffalo,n.y. u.s.a.
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    Default

    To any who are interested in the Summit removable steering hub mentioned, I can be reached at a new address:

    [email protected]

    Good racing

  13. #13
    Dick Elliott Guest

    Default

    MARK! Did you sell your Bobcat? Let me know. I just might know someone interested. DICK

    Originally posted by MarkL:
    Tie the downtubes into the rockers if you can. Put the main hoop mounts as close to the front (leaf) spring mount boxes as you can. Tie the rear leaf mounts into the top of the main hoop at the halo bar tie ins. You probably can't cut holes in the dash to run the front downbars through like the modern cars, so just get them as close to the dash as you can. I'm 6' and when running backwards on banked oval, my head hit the halo bar when craning my neck to see around the corner. I wear a 34" inseam and my knees always hit the steering wheel in whatever I drive, so I used a smaller steering wheel and the seat needed to be lowered, as well as moved way back. Other than that, go for it and make sure we are kept updated.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
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    Default

    Overkill is under-rated



    ------------------
    Scott Rhea
    It's not what you build...
    it's how you build it

    Izzy's Custom Cages

    [This message has been edited by Speed Raycer (edited January 23, 2005).]

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
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    I can't see Texas from here!
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    Default

    Dick, The little wildcat is still for sale. I would like to sell it. It is too depressing to look at it just sitting in my garage.

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