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Thread: 280 Z owner-to-be has a few questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    5

    Default 280 Z owner-to-be has a few questions

    Hi.

    I have a few questions for whoever might answer them:

    1. Is it possible to make keep a racer street legal? I happen to be dirt poor, and this seems like the only option I have.

    2. If I keep my car street legal, will I be hampered in any way while racing? Or worse, while driving daily?

    3. Are aftermarket exhaust headers legal in the SCCA? Cause I've found a deal on a set, and would like to know before hand if I'm even allowed.

    4. What's a good diamater for sway bars? And should both fore and rear go on? Or should either be put on? I don't know if they would mesh well with the Tokico suspension.

    5. Can someone give me a good run down on low-cost parts to build on the Datsun? I've written down stats on just about every Z item under the sun, and I've come up with the following:

    Tokico Illumina shocks and struts. - these seem to be ahead of the game compared to other suspension sets for the Z. (again, tell me if i'm misinformed.)

    Pacesetter Cat-back exhaust system. - This is another item I assume is legal to put on, but am not sure about.

    I read from one of the other posts that a 3:20 ratio on the rear differential would be a prime, inexpensive goal to set for a 240Z. Would it work well with the 280Z as well?

    Something else, I know that there are to be no passengers riding with you at any races whatsoever. But does this mean you can't have a passenger seat?

    Thanks in advance, all. And please forgive my newbishness.

    ------------------
    M1chael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Alameda, CA USA
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Welcome, M1chael!

    Some answers for you... Yes, you can have a street-legal racecar. My 240z is registered and legal in California. I have separate street tires and race tires. I initially tried to drive my car to the racetrack, but hauling all of those tires left little room for tools or supplies (I actually tried to buy a car-top cargo carrier). My first race, the engine blew up - someone was nice enough to tow it home for me, but it was an important lesson in the difference between "race-worthy" and "reliable". Racing your daily driver is a *bad idea* (Lyn St. James has the classic story on that one - she lost control and drowned her car in her first race).

    There's some financial waste to starting out on the cheap as we're trying to do. Racing parts are designed for high-performance and they are priced in terms of "win the race" rather than "get to work every day". I doubt most racers put any effort into fuel efficiency, either. Comfort? You pull all the comfort features out (to reduce weight and flamability), tighten the suspension to make it handle well at speed, etc. I acclimated to my racecar on the streets: forget the "mobile office" concept (I couldn't hear my phone ring, let alone have conversations with the engine running) and forget about taking it on client visits (a hot cockpit & 5-points with no A/C does not blend well with professional appearance) or enjoying music on the drive. 5-point belts may not be street legal (try to reach anything besides the wheel and the shifter while wearing one, and you might sympathize with that law).

    I've got Tokico struts, and they're adjustable. I dial them down to 1 for street driving, then adjust them at the track (but I've got fairly wimpy springs). I drove a street-legal Spec Miata home when my car died at the track, and it was the funniest ride of my life - the first time a seatbelt ever kept me from *lifting* out of the seat (forget about sipping a latte as you bump and bounce down the freeway). It seemed like scary street handling, but it was responsive as all get-out. As you adjust your suspension for racing, you will move closer to the realm where your friends will refuse to ride in your car, anyway, which fixes the passenger seat issue. :-)

    Yes, you can have a passenger seat - it's a weight/convenience trade-off. Removing the seat reduces the overall weight of the car (faster), but it gives you nowhere to put a driving instructor, let alone a regular passenger. As for what you can or can't put on/in your car - get the GCRs (General Club Rules).

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Acworth, GA USA
    Posts
    455

    Default

    I'll agree with all that, and I'll reiterate the "don't race your street car" sentiment. Unless you are willing to write off the car every time you put it on the track, you will eventually be extremely sad. Thomas' corollary to Murphy's law states "the probability of totalling your race car is directly proportional to how much you have to lose by doing so".

    When you can afford to have a separate race car, you will be way ahead of the game to buy an existing one rather than try to build up one. Cheaper, easier, faster. Benefit from someone else's development.

    Oh, and don't bother with headers for your street car- a 280Z exhaust manifold is very good. 2-1/2 exhaust system to a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, and you'll be within a couple horsepower of most headers with a lot less heat and hassle.

    ------------------
    katman

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks for the replies.

    Because of the excessive money required for amateur racing, i'm now torn between building an SCCA racer out of the datsun, or making a V8 conversion.

    I figure the best of my options would be to go ahead and do what I want with the Datsun(i.e., 350), and keep my eye open for a pre-fabbed car for sale.

    Thanks again.

    ------------------
    M1chael

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Los Lunas, NM, USA
    Posts
    682

    Default

    Probably a wise choice. Racing on a shoestring is an excercise in frustration, based on personal experience. I see lots of ITB/ITC cars for sale in the $3000 range, they're just as good to learn on as anything, and if you wad it up it's a lot easier to explain to the wife.

    If you're not a die hard bow-tie guy, consider a blue oval 302. Believe it or not, a Ford 5.0 actually lighter than a L28! Also, you don't have to deal with the distributor and hood latch thing.

    I assume you've been to hybridz.org?

    Ty

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Oh, yeah. I've been all over that site. Right now, as a matter of fact, I'm trying to get a deal on a '76 280Z that already has a 350 in it with a T5 tranny.

    Needs some body work, but I think it's the car for me. Now to convince my financial suppliers (parents) on account of I'm only 17

    It seems for a while now that Improved Touring is out of the question for me.

    ------------------
    M1chael

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