Buying Used IT7

[Huntersrun]

I am currently looking for an IT7 or ITA RX7. What should I look for in a "Pre Raced" RX7. What are the problem areas and such. We have one in Mind and are going to look at on Sat. Any input/suggestions would be helpful. I have owned several Rotary's over the years and am famliar with them. I have even Autocrossed and Solo 1 and RX7 in the early 80's. I just need to know what to look out for on a raced RX7

Thanks in Advance for any help.

Richard Hunter

[planet6racing]

Richard:

Welcome to the board! I'm going to speak in generalities, because I know little about the 7.

1) Get the rulebook and read it first. Know what you can and cannot do to a car in the class you are looking at.

2) Check the vehicle's logbook and compare the number in the book to that on the cage. If they don't match, run (don't walk) the other way!

3) If possible, buy the car as it is coming off the track. It will give you a chance to see the car in action and you could spend the weekend with the seller learning some of the ins and outs of the car.

#1 is probably the most important, as fixing the things that are illegal can take a lot of time and energy. That said, though, I can't expect there will be too many things (if any) illegal out there (at least I hope not!).

Good luck!

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Bill
Planet 6 Racing
bill (at) planet6racing (dot) com

[Speed Raycer]

Do a complete inspection. If the guys not willing to let you crawl all over it, walk away.

Check the aforemention cage/logbook stamping. Bring a mirror with you and check the welds on the tops of the tubes and anywhere that would be hard to get too. When I bought my RX, there were tubes held together with JB Weld and even had missing welds under the doorbars... and yes, it was log-booked.

Check the wiring harness and see if it's been hacked or burned. RX wiring is a nightmare to figure out. Mine was missing the entire harness.

Check under the front end for crash damage to the bumper shock extensions.

Also check to be sure all of the panels and body bracing in front of the radiator are there. Yep, mine were missing... hacked out with a torch... 2 or 3 lbs worth of weight savings if that

Check for rust in the rear wheelwell at the 4 link attachment point.

If it's got a tri-link or panhard, check the body attachment points.

I'm sure I'll think of more ...

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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it

Izzy's Custom Cages

[Tom Donnelly]

The best way is to go to the races in your area and buy a car at the track. Everything there is always for sale, its just a matter of price. Especially at the ARRC. Thats a great place to buy / sell. Just show up with cash and a tow vehicle / trailer. Pick up the car right after impound and get a list of spares that can be picked up later.

Of course, I've only seen that happen a couple of times. And the buyers got great cars at a "reasonable" price.

I forgot to add, if you have your license, you can also do a test drive during a test day session.

Tom Donnelly
ITS 240z

[This message has been edited by Tom Donnelly (edited July 21, 2005).]

[ddewhurst]

Richard, identify the car with a post by owner & location. Someone or several people might jump in with good & other information about the car. Other information being that in the CenDiv there is/was a car that was thought to be illegal & it took a long time for the owner to get rid of it. Ya don't need one of those cars. If the current owner uses this site & dislikes the fact that you posted asking questions about the exact car. It might be a car to walk away from.

Have Fun
David
[email protected]

[Huntersrun]

Thanks for the info. I have known the fellow selling the car for almost 25 yrs. He has a wonderful reputation in the Mazda community. What I was trying to find out is where to look for common problems with raced RX-7s, you have given me that info. Thanks again for the help.

Richard Hunter

[RacinRich]

I have an IT7 for sale in Michigan. Contact me if you're interested - [email protected].