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Thread: Igniters

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    158

    Default Igniters

    I am having a weird problem with my autometer tach. Sometimes up around 8000 it starts behaving eratically, bouncing around. Also been told I have a bit of a miss at high rpm as well, but not always. Someone said it might be the igniters.

    I have also been told they either work or they don't, no middle ground, OR I've been told they can fluctuate...Any thoughts

    ------------------
    G. Brooke Carter
    Wheat Buckley Racing
    # 10 Challenge Car
    2004 Class Champion
    Calgary, Alberta

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    Default

    Hey Guys.....someone must know something about these igniters?

    ------------------
    G. Brooke Carter
    Wheat Buckley Racing
    # 10 Challenge Car
    2004 Class Champion
    Calgary, Alberta

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Orlando, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,322

    Default

    I guess not, G. Try Jake on the NE forum.

    ------------------
    Gregg Baker, P.E.
    Isaac, LLC
    http://www.isaacdirect.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    180

    Default

    I've also heard that they either work or don't. However at that RPM it is possible you have some kind of harmonics issue that is creating an open in some portion of the ignition circuit. Evidenced by the tach going funny...All the connections on the coil good? Did you try replacing the coil?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    San Clemente, Ca, USA
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Try moving your tach to the other coil, it'll work on either. That will tell you if you have a tach problem or an ignition problem.

    If it's an ignition problem, try swapping the coils, they're interchangable.

    If that doesn't fix the problem, get a set of new igniters at the junk yard and try that. Worst case is, you now have a spare set of igniters for the time one does fail.

    If that doesn't fix it, find someone smarter than me to help. That shouldn't take long. ;-)

    -chuck-

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    1,215

    Default

    It *might* be a case of lean miss-fire. My car would get up to about 5K and then the shift light would start flashing at me... I messed with the fuel pressure and it got better... never did get it completely gone before blowing the motor.

    Oh... and no ignitors.... MSD direct fire.

    ------------------
    Scott Rhea
    It's not what you build...
    it's how you build it

    Izzy's Custom Cages

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    hampden,ma.usa
    Posts
    3,083

    Default

    all good sugestions. also anytime i heard weird and electrical in the same sentence I double check all the ground connections.
    dick

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Wauwatosa, WI, USA
    Posts
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    Default

    ***Hey Guys.....someone must know something about these igniters?***

    Brooke, I was going to stay out of this conversation because I have never tried a tester which I have a drawing of for igniters. The drawing shows a light bulb with a switch that would be turned "on" & "off" & I don't remember what a lit or
    un-lit bulb means. A good guess would be if the bulb is lit the igniter is good. Anyway you use a 12 volt light bulb, a 12 volt car battery, the igniter, a switch & some wire.

    Attach a wire to the negative terminal of the battery & to the ground on the back side of the igniter. Attach a wire from the "C" terminal at the top of the igniter to one terminal on the light bulb. Attach another wire from the other terminal of the light bulb to the positive terminal of the battery. Attach a wire from the "B" terminal at the top of the igniter to the positive of the battery. Attach a wire from the "S4" (outside terminal) terminal at the back side of the igniter to one terminal of the switch. Attach another wire from the other terminal of the switch to the positive terminal of the battery.

    That is everything I know don't know about igniter testing.

    Let me know how it works.

    Have Fun
    David


    [This message has been edited by ddewhurst (edited May 20, 2005).]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    Default

    Cool guys.

    I have about 10 used ones rounded up...these babies are about $250.00 new..AAARRRGGGHHH !

    We are on the chassis dyno next week, and I am just going to keep switching them out til the flutter goes away. I replaced plugs, coils, dist. cap and rotor, so there's not much left.

    I'll let ya know.

    B


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Franksville, WI
    Posts
    144

    Default

    circuit diag at http://www.geocities.com/jake7140/tech.html

    Yes, also check for GOOD grounds all around. If you have an original ground strap, it is aluminum and can break internally.

    ------------------
    Steve
    [email protected]
    <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/jake7140" TARGET=_blank>My racing page
    </A><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/elrss" TARGET=_blank>Elkhart Lake Racing_&_Sipping Society
    </A>

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Wauwatosa, WI, USA
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    Default

    Brooke, Steve posted the test circut I wrote of.

    Have Fun
    David

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
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    Default

    Great, the drawing is easy to understand, and I'll try some of these ignitors. The ground in the car is all relatively new, and not stock in construction or location...

    ------------------
    G. Brooke Carter
    Wheat Buckley Racing
    # 10 Challenge Car
    2004 Class Champion
    Calgary, Alberta

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