basic questions

[mrbill]

Hello there, almost forgot about this site..

-I ran a IT7 in fla region 95-00, hope this helps....

heres are the random thoughts I can remember:

heat kills,

but I ran valvoline RACING 20/50 and saw 210 all day long, and often 220, 260 on oil temp, change it each weekend. motors ran good.

ran 3oz amsoil 2 cycle oil per 5 gal fuel,

ran super blue brake fluid, w/ 2 ducts, small aimed at rotor, plus center duct.
hawk blue front brakes, blacks rear, used street rotors worked best, and 'aged' brake rotors (sat in back yard) worked ok. Normally cracked a rotor a weekend.

tri link rear end worked best, (better than pan hard), the cheaters got diffent gears (out of miata, and rwd 626) 3rd, 5th. - best, (also in 2nd gen),

lollypop disallowed intake porting, exaust helps a little.

waterpumps tend to cavitate, so we pulled thermostat, and added washer to restrict water flow. run large alt pully, (some would disconnect for qualifying or even sprint race)

hoosiers last 2 weekends but are slower than toyos 2nd weekend. kuhmos about par w/ toyos.

exaust: racing beat header 2 pipes all way back behind axle for collector. dynomax muffler. (never extend muffler past bumper) strenghten bumpers/fenders w/ foam in can.

I ran tokio adj shocks w/ 400lb springs, ackerman kit worked well, 79 carb was best, and we closed up waterjacked.

ISC source for many parts, including brake ducts, oil lines.

trans are weak. 3rd gear mostly went,

Air filters were free, so the bottoms were coated w/ heat shields, as were the carb insulator (and extensions).

lastly keeping the driver cool is worth 2 seconds a lap, after the first 10 min, (at least in florida), camelback, cool suit, airducts, are cheap horsepower.

try to think of racing as a hobby, not a blood sport. resist the red mist... no sense killing yourself or anyone else for a ten dollar bowling trophy.. eh?

[lateapex911]

Originally posted by mrbill:
lollypop disallowed intake porting, exaust helps a little.

Help me understand this point...are you saying that exhaust porting in IT7 is a good (and acceptable) way to acheive bettter horsepower?



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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]

[CaptainWho]

From what I've read, it's a good way, but I don't believe that it's an acceptable way in an IT car. Of course, my interpretation of the GCR and ITCS has been wrong before.

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Doug "Lefty" Franklin
NutDriver Racing

[bcarter]

We run in Canada under different rules, we run streetports, but a rotary is a rotary.

I shift usually around 7500 - 8000, but the red fog sometimes takes me into 8500+.

I was running in the 195 - 210 degree range, but just had a new 3 row rad built, and this last weekend never got over 185. The weather was not too hot, but the car almost ran too cool. Neat, as I agree "heat kills". I also blow out the rad with my air hose after every race weekend to clear out the crap.

I put 4 oz. oil in 25 liters of fuel, el cheapo low octane, and run the OMP.(I just don't trust it, and we run higher rpm than stock) I figure the cheapest insurance you can buy is oil. I use Amsol 2 cycle for the premix, and Pennzoil for the pan. I change the engine oil after each race weekend...see above re: insurance. My plugs are exactly the right colour , with no build up.

Transmissions are crap. We have to run stock, and they fall apart. I just changed out the tail bushing, the yoke, the rear seal, a bunch of bearings, the shift forks, clips and a bunch of bits. They seem to fail mostly at the rear end, and end up spewing oil. Get a few spare junkyard tranys, as they change out in 45 minutes. Rear seals are easy to change, and change them often.

Duct your front brakes if allowed. I was going through rotors every second weekend, and bearings as well. I put in the MazdaSpeed duct fittings, with 3" quality tubing, and some eavestrough funnels thingys for the front air dam from Home Depot. I also re-grease the front bearings after every race. This year I am still on the same rotors and bearings. Keep the brakes and rotors cool, and bearings greased.

Racing beat header, Magnaflow muffler, 2 x 2 1/8" pipes back to a "Y" into the muffler, with two 8" flex units in the pipes just behind the flange to allow some flex. I had a problem with the pipes breaking.

A good tach, and some gauges, all non-stock, and a steel gas pedal, with a magnet in my right shoe. ( ha ha )

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G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2003 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta


[This message has been edited by bcarter (edited August 06, 2004).]

[Mike Guenther]

I have read here about the "Florida Engines" and I'm sure they're all "South Florida Engines" Particularly IT-7.
Who is mrbill?

[pgipson]

The GCR I have says (in 12.D.2.a) for Rotary engines (only):

Any porting or polishing is prohibited.

Seems pretty clear, and the rule was enforced pretty well when I was involved with IT racing in the SE 15+ years ago.

[lateapex911]

Well, I know what the GCR says, and I know of the performance potential, I was just interested in what Mrbill thought was kosher or non kosher, and what he ran on his car....

...his response was deafening in it's silence...

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]

[This message has been edited by lateapex911 (edited August 08, 2004).]

[Marmot]

I'm in the process of building an ITS RX-7 and made the mistake of assuming that removing the OMP was okay since it didn't affect performance. I had a copy of the rulebook but didn't confirm this until after removing the whole OMP system and installing a blocking off plate. Wrote it off as a learning experience and spent a weekend putting the system back in. As much as it pained me, I bought all new lines...oil and vacuum so I could rebuild the system right.

That being said...whats the deal? The rules are supposed to be geared towards making racing affordable. Switching rotaries from oil injection to pre-mix is a cheap way of increasing reliability without effecting performance so why isn't it allowed? Not pissed, just trying to understand.

[Quickshoe]

As far as reliability goes, just premix as well. Adjust the OMP so it introduces as little 'crank'case oil as possible. When it is working you won't be adding too much additional oil into the fuel and if it fails you'll be protected.

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Daryl DeArman

[Mike Guenther]

...his response was deafening in it's silence...
Jake Gulick

Hey Jake,
"Oh no....Mr.Bill..." its probably one of those "South Florida" engines with the speed secrets.

[mrbill]

test2

[mrbill]

Here I am, you can email me at [email protected].

I dont race any more since I sold my car to a richard matthews in scr... (which I think he totaled the 1st season... (ran out of talent))

I ran #35 white, ita / it7, in fla region from 95-00. -check race results for sarrc/fla region/cfr..

In no way do I recommend cheating, and porting is cheating, in rotories.

Fla had a lot of good rotory speed shops , ISC, Speedsource, sas, rototech, petit, etc...

Fla also had some pretty fast cars, and lots of door banging... I think we had faster cars because of what I saw from out of region cars comming down for sarrc points. granted it was unfamilar track, but... well look at the sarrc points from back then...

One thing we had down here, was access to island parts, sometimes the mixing and matching was legal, (liberal interpertation of rules), and sometimes is was cheating.


regardless, I never protested anyone, (or been protested) even though I knew some of my friends were questionable.

Pick any of the top cars,(95-00) and I had a good idea what they were doing.

I mentioned what some guys do, so you can be prepared.... FYI only!

the gearbox was the best way to cheat when I got out. hard to detect. At the sarrc in daytona, we often saw cars on blocks, while a tech was rotating drive shaft and counting axle revolutions.

also in 1979 the rx7 had larger stock ports (exaust), which were legal before the loly pop came out.

So now you know what to protest... ok?.

Regardless, I'm not running scca anylonger. (they need the 13/13 rule...imho.)

I do run some pca/pboc/nasa/chin/safe drivers ed's as time permits

I just thought I would add my .02, as I would have liked this knowledge when I started...

-I could never understand why '00 green', could run with the front ITS cars... and I couldnt touch him...

well the lolypop fixed that, and shortly there after I was able to beat him... without buying hoosiers each weekend...like his budget allowed...

-ps: the 2nd gen cars had great brakes, but had problems cooling, and needed heatexchangers to run in fla. they need the spare tire in back for wt, and the 5.12 was the hot gear.

pick up a grassroots motorsports back issue on 2nd gen mazda, about 5 yrs ago, the #70 speed source car (white at the time), was on the cover, and they discussed all the models, pros and cons.

thats it I'm done... I wont be back often, I was just surfing, and re-discovered this site again...

lastly: I was considering SM, but I'm hearing the door banging is worse than ever, and 'liberal interpertations of the rules' is going on... same as always... too bad a SRF is so expensive...

-all the best.... mrbill.

[mrbill]

lets see if my old car photo will post...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/ftl...lracing-rx7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/ftl...iver/lonnme.jpg

[mrbill]

Before someone gets excited, I didnt mean 'best way to cheat' was something you should do... What I should have said was, hard to detect, and was very effective.

ps: I like the locked rear end, vs the l/s and I had trouble with the ceramic puck style clutch, but loved the centerforce dual friction. 20 adv both plugs, EGTs to tune carb/mtr. & I should have bought the ss header.... ended up buying 2 from rbeat...

ps: never, ever come to race in fla in the summer if you're from up north... you'll just melt... or drown. lol


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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/ftl...lracing-rx7.jpg

[lateapex911]

thanks for clearing that up mrbill.

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]