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Thread: Serious Meats under Metal

  1. #1
    Guest

    Default Serious Meats under Metal

    Here we go guys, as I speak 225-50-13 hoosiers are being shoe-horned under my 1st gen, will I have to buy new rear rims to keep the tread ahhhh, contact patch under the wheel flares?. post the outcome shortly.
    ohhh ohhh ohhh

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Worcester, MA USA
    Posts
    116

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    What's the big deal I know ITC Honda's that have tires that big on them.

    ------------------
    Nick Leverone
    04 ITS Mazda Rx-7
    www.flatout-motorsports.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    193

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    I have 225-50-15 RA-1's on my GSL-SE. Tight on clearances on the front (about 1/8" clearance inside and outside of tire), rear fits well.

    ------------------
    Allen Brown
    #36 IT-1
    GT-3 in 2004
    [email protected]

    [This message has been edited by Allen Brown (edited May 08, 2003).]

  4. #4
    Guest

    Default

    hoosier 225's are 8.6" wide on the contact patch, and yes nick we know hondas have easy coverage for wider tires as well as your 2nd gen but getting big tires under a 1st gen is a chore while staying legal i.e. inside of the flare.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Castro Valley, CA
    Posts
    156

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    I currently run 225/50-13 hoosiers on an 84 in ITA. You will need to roll the inner fender lip (allowed). I've found the best/least damaging method is to gently roll the car back and forth with a wooden baseball bat between the tire and fender. Additional clearance can also be had by moving the fender as far outboard as the mounting holes will allow. As long as you don't cut metal or modify holes, it is also legal. Also, check for the tire rubbing on the spring, or lower spring perches. Double check this clearance (remove the front tires and look for rub marks on tire and spring perch) after your first on track session. Bring wheel spacers just in case (better to stick the wheels out than to cut a tire...). Large bearing strut housings have slightly more clearance here than small bearing units (1/2 degree greater angle between spindle and strut tube).

    Tachi
    #29 ITA SFR SCCA

  6. #6
    Guest

    Default

    thanks Tachi, thats what I was hoping to hear from my post, once they are mounted I own them.

    ------------------
    Daryl Brightwell
    ITA RX7 #11
    SFR, NORPAC
    ITA RX7 #77
    CSCC, SOPAC
    E/P BOTH SOON

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default

    So Darryl, Did they fit? I still have mine sitting in the boxes while I get the turn-in spacers installed....

  8. #8
    Guest

    Default

    heres what it looks like...

    http://members.aol.com/fastnblue/ita

    AWESOME, makes it look like a trans am car from days gone by. had to roll the rear flare lips cause on a real hard bounce like a birm they WILL rub just on the edge of the tire, but they are 3/4" thick right there so it wont hurt them a bit, on the fronts they have more clearance from my tierod ends and strut adjusters then my toyos 205's had cause of flat sidewalls. cant wait till friday practice at BWRP for this weekends double regional to try them out, yee haw.

    ------------------
    Daryl Brightwell
    ITA RX7 #11
    SFR, NORPAC
    ITA RX7 #77
    CSCC, SOPAC
    E/P BOTH SOON

    [This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited May 15, 2003).]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Wauwatosa, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,658

    Default

    Larry, I have a couple questions about turn in spacers. Someplace someone talked about installing the turn in spacers & talked about breaking 1/2 inch drills. Are these the original arm holes that get redrilled where the drill breaks?
    Within the turn in spacer what is the radial angle difference from the original arm mounting holes to the new arm mounting holes ?

    Daryl, have a great weekend.

    Have Fun
    David

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default

    David, That was probably me groaning about the drilling. I didn't break any drill bits, but i burned up a drill and dulled two $20 bits. I took everything to a local auto machine shop and had them do it.

    You have to drill out to 1/2" the threaded holes on the little "ears" at the bottom of the strut assembly (where the OE bolts screw up into) and you have to flatten the top surface because you're now going to put a bolt in from the top that screws into the turn in spacer.
    Plus you have to drill out the same corresponding holes on each side of the arm (the ball joint arm hole is in the middle and stays un modified).
    I'm not sure what the radial angle difference is. I'll see if its on the instruction sheet tonight or I throw a protractor on the diagram. I think I have your email, I can probably send you the illustration (I don't think Mr Susko would sue for copy right infringement if I just send the illustration!)
    Hope I'm describing this clearly...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
    Posts
    1,066

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    Looks good Daryl!

    You are such a trouble maker...

    Someone is obviously going to protest you for an illegal cam!

    Have fun at BWRP. I'll be there on the June 7-8th weekend. (co-driving a second gen rx7 in a Enduro)

    --Daryl

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Wauwatosa, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,658

    Default

    Larry, good description & look forward to receiving the radial angle if you know or have it.

    Thanks
    David

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default

    David,

    I scanned in the illustration, but I guess I don't have your email address after all. Send to [email protected]

    I can't find anything like a protractor around the house to measure the angle, but you can get it from the illustration.

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