engines, pulleys, and stuff

[frazer]

ok, winter's here and i want to get my motor done. at the moment, it's stock. all i've done is remove the a/c equipment and the smog equipment. i have a block-off plate for the acv. this is an SCCA ITS car. i need help! what size pulleys do i get? best source for a radiator? remove the 6 port sleeves? does the o2 sensor just go away? incase you can't tell, this is my first attempt at this. =) if you can help me out, post here or e-mail me at: [email protected]

thanks,

mike

[C. Ludwig]

I went through all this last year so don't feel bad. Here's what I did. Removed the 6-ports all together and made block offs. Removed the OMP and went to premix. Had a radiator custom made by a guy in Michigan (great deal but I lost his email addy ) The o2 sensor leaves which if I'm not mistaken forces the car into open loop so you can now tune with fuel pressure. I probably removed some stuff I'm not supposed to (per rules) but anything that wasn't essential to making the car run fell off at turn 3. You'll need the TPS, water temp sender or resistor, IAT sensor or resistor and the OMP or resistor for 89+ cars. Everything else goes. BTW I wired the VDI valve open in the short runner, high RPM setting. My car was competitve with the other 2nd gens everywhere I went this summer power wise. It's an 86 JY/SR motor with about 65k on the clock. I did go to twin stock oil coolers, the comp high pressure oil regulator and the oil pan baffle. Other than that she's all as-is from the factory.

Chris

PS: God I love using the term JY/SR! That's got my vote for net wit of the year!

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

[AS-RACER]

If you haven't already done so, sign up with Mazda Comp. You can buy parts from them at cost. Their phone #is 1(800)435-2508 and I believe their web site is mazdamotorsports.com . Also get the underdrive pulleys from Mazda comp.

[ITSRX7]

Chris,

Drop me a line.

Thanks,

AB

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Andy Bettencourt
06 ITS RX-7
FlatOut Motorsports
New England Region
[email protected]

[frazer]

thanks everyone. i like the "fell off at turn 3" thing.

as for pulleys, what do i get? do i replace the main, h20, alternator pulleys? bigger? smaller? i want to order them soon. also, i've never had any heating problems, and my front lip spoiler helps force air into the radiator. so i shouldn't need an electric fan, right?

radiator: i see people running griffin. anyone running one from k2rd? i want something that drops in.

any other part hints/tips?

thanks again,

mike

[C. Ludwig]

Forgot the pulley. I got mine from Mazdatrix before I got signed up with Mazdaspeed. Think Mazdaspeed only sells one. You'll want the double sheave (two belt) underdrive pulley for the e-shaft. Ooops, they have a double sheave for the alternator too that you need to be able to run dual belts. Both are underdrive designed to slow everything down. The water pump likes to cavitate at higher rpm. I've also fitted a later series 5 water pump and housing to my series 4 short block. Takes just a bit of grinding for clearance betweent he housing and front cover. The later pump is designed for higher rpm use. The later pump also uses a bigger pulley than the early pump so it'll run slower still.

As far as radiators go I went with who I went with because of price. I got something that is basically identical to the Comp piece for a little more than half the money. Everyone sells these things for $500+...that's insane in my book. I did the measurements, made a drawing that I emailed to the guy and had the rad on my doorstep in less than a week for about $300. Look around!

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

[Quickshoe]

E-shaft pulley = smaller diameter
WP pulley = larger
Alt pulley = larger

I used the RB (Racing Beat) aluminum dual sheave.

Before some rules nerd gets all exited. The Rotary guys get the freedom to change the "crankshaft" pulley. It is unrestricted.
Yeah, one goes "our" way!
Now, George when you become a proofreader there is one more wording issue to change, rotaries don't have "crankshafts".

[frazer]

feeling a bit like a fool, i forgot to mention that the car was a '90. doh!

gonna try and order the pulleys tomorrow. time to start the mad hunt for a rad.

today is my birthday and my girlfriend got me a pre-paid track day (FATT for all you Summit Point locals). she's so cool!

thanks,

mike

[C. Ludwig]

Forgot something. Go to the Mazdaspeed site and read all their tech pages. Follow the steps on gutting the thermostat and plugging the bypass in the water pump. I had some over heating issues until I went the whole route with those steps plus the 2nd oil cooler and baffle plate.

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

[Br.itsrx]

Originally posted by C. Ludwig:
Forgot something. Go to the Mazdaspeed site and read all their tech pages. Follow the steps on gutting the thermostat and plugging the bypass in the water pump. I had some over heating issues until I went the whole route with those steps plus the 2nd oil cooler and baffle plate.

Chris

[backformore]

Chris L.

I don't want to hijack this thread. Would you please email me with details of your dual oil cooler installation.

Thanks,
Rory
[email protected]

[C. Ludwig]

Had a couple guys ask about it. I can try to get some pics up in the next couple weeks if I can find my car under all the stuff in the garage.

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

[Silkworm]

I went with a Koyo radiator, kinda pricey compared to the generic Griffin, but bolts right in using the stock radiator mounts.

My engine setup sounds fairly similar to Chris L.'s, except I kept the O2 sensor. Powerwise, I'm doing ok. Stock rebuilt engine from a Junkyard (JY/SR?)

LOL

PaulC

[C. Ludwig]

Nah Silk, you rebuilt your motor? You went way past the JY/SR. The S stands for sans. You got like a JY Type R motor if it's rebuilt! Or was that a Stage 3 JY Racing motor?

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv