Cooling IT7

[dick]

I have a stock cooling setup on my 12A, including the 83?- on Oil Cooler (filter on top of cooler).

Is this sufficient? Or should I up grade to the RB pully (is water pump cavitation really a problem?). And a front mount oil cooler.

Temps here rarely get hotter than 85-90F, more typical temps are in the high 70s on a hot day.

Thanks

[RacinRich]

You will definately need to switch to a better oil cooler and the aftermarket pulleys.

[CrunchyFrog]

Don't go throwing the Oil Cooler away...

The traditional Rx7 racer will race with the stock radiator and early Oil Cooler as they came from Mazda, it's plenty to keep things cool... BIG IF... If they are in excellent condition..

Cavetation by the water pump occurs over the stock red line limits of the Engine... So, yeah you may need to invest here, but only after you start revving the piss out of the Engine.

Ideally when you get the money, get the Rad and cooler professionally cleaned with a sonic cleaning device - this has been discussed on this web site at length and you should be able to locate some information about the process.

Now, if you run out West in the Desert or in 100 degree temps often, then look into the bigger radiators and Oil Coolers, the basic concept of a stacked cooler and Rad are sound though, and the concept is worth keeping if you upgrade.

The number one sin for an Rx7 racer is letting his "lump" over-heat.. Never, never over-heat your baby, it will be certain death for her. If she over-heats at any time - ANY TIME! - just slow the pace down, if it won't cool down quickly after this, pit immediately! or pull off - DO NOT try for that extra lap - you will cook your baby...

Other_K

[Hammer]

What temp do you consider overheating

[CrunchyFrog]

Argh - you see I can only remember water temps... anything over 230 for water and you are looking at a damaged motor... but, it's really the Oil that needs to be cooled...

So, I have seen water over 240 and the Engine sruvive just fine, but obviously the water was doing it's job and the Oil temps must have been OK...

[jls288gto]

ok, here's my questions regarding oil coolers:

1) my 83 has a 22x6" oil cooler in front of the radiator, down lower. I bought it this way, is it stock and where can I get a replacement?
2) can multiple oil coolers of smaller size effectively replace the one in front?

Thanks in advance,
Jason Singalevitch

[jake7140]

Originally posted by jls288gto:
ok, here's my questions regarding oil coolers:

1) my 83 has a 22x6" oil cooler in front of the radiator, down lower. I bought it this way, is it stock and where can I get a

1) Not a stock setup for 83. I think the early oil cooler is longer & narrower, but don't have one handy to measure. Could be just a generic oil cooler; any speed shop.

[balz]

ok...my .02 (and probably worth that).

Not sure where you run but, stay with the stock setup IMHO. Get a cooling fan (electric) for those fun days in the paddock/or under a SLOW yellow.

Take the thermostat out of your Oil cooler (the thermal by-pass) and replace/sleve it with a piece of threaded pipe.

Cavitation...CHANGE YOUR PULLY! and see about having someone mod your oil pump so that your running roughly 100psi under load (5-8K rpm). Talk to Stan at SDJ Motorsports in Moresville, N.C. he can help.

Frank
#67 IT-7
www.balz.myip.org

[miketrier]

I have a set of racing Beat dual belt pulleys (engine, alternator and a custom made larger pulley for water pump) I'll sell you for half of new price for the RB parts. I get along fine with a factory 3 core radiator and factory oil cooler (mounts below the rqadiator) it is approx 6 x 22. DO NOT put a mesh screen in front of your radiator. 1/4" mesh will block nearly 1/3 of your air flow. My car was getting hot at Hallet, OK (100 degrees plus in the shade). I spent money foolishly buying the complete set of 3 Mazda comp pulleys to replace the RB dual belt pulleys and then figured out that the screen was the problem.