1990 Civic 4-speed 4.78 FD

[spnkzss]

I'm looking for a cheaper solution to the 4.78 FD than $950. I know that it's worth it, but can't stomach the cost right now since I just had a motor built. I ran MARRS I with my new tire combo and the Si FD and noticed some odd shifting points. My biggest issue is coming through 9 at Summit bouncing off the rev limiter in 3rd because I don't have enough ass to carry 4th through turn 10. I tried shifting from 3rd to 4th and back down to 3rd entering 10, but thats very upsetting to the car (I know I probably need more practice). I want to stop using 2nd gear all together and use 3rd and 4th primarily. I'm willing to give up some top speed since I'm not going to catch them in the straights anyways. Atleast not until I can get a good run out of 10

Thanks

Spanky
#03 '90 Honda Civic ITC WDCR

[Catch22]

I hate to break it to you, but the 4.7 is the only answer to making that car fast. Depending upon the tracks you run, you might have to run a taller tire.
I'm hitting the rev limiter going into turn 10a at Road Atlanta with the 225/45/13 Hoosiers.

As you mentioned, the 4.7 basically makes it a 2 speed car. All you use is 3rd and 4th gear. The gap between 2nd and 3rd (as you know) is so big it makes 2nd gear useless.

My car was fairly uncompetitive before I went to the 4.7. Now its a consistent frontrunner everywhere we go. Its just a pain to have to manage both 45 and 50 series tires for various tracks.

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#22 ITC Honda Civic
3rd Place 2004 ARRC
1st Place 2004 ARRC Enduro
www.motorpride.com/Catch22

[spnkzss]

That what I keep hearing, and on paper it looks great.

Is there any place I can get a 4.7 for under $950?

Spanky
#03 '90 Honda Civic ITC WDCR

[Catch22]

Check with OPM autosports. I got my ATS from them.
I don't remember what I paid, but it seems it was less than $950. But still pretty expensive.

[John Kovach]

I have a '91 civic std and wanted to start preping it for ITC. It will be a while before im ready to go racing it but I want to make sure that the mods I do dont keep me out of ITC.

Can anyone give me some good links for some further research? Or, give me an outline of their car setup?

I've been reading the IT rules and it looks like you have to stay completely out of the engine altogether, aside from 1mm overbore. What do people do to get this car moving. Haveing the same suspension as the Si in ITA it seems like power is the cars only weekness.

Any help would be great!

John

[Tom Blaney]

Since your using the same suspension as we have in the ITA CRX's and Civics'

I have a bunch of suspension parts that should help your out

http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html

Tom Blaney

[Catch22]

Power is actually NOT the car's weakness. Remember that you are running against a bunch of other cars that came from the factory rated at 60 to 80hp. So while you have no power, neither does anyone else you're racing against.

The weakness is the gearbox. You MUST do a 4.7 FD in these cars to make them competitive. For shorter, tighter tracks (CMP is the only one in the S.E.) you need an even higher FD. Maybe a 5.0. You have to focus on making it a 2 speed car, using only 3rd and 4th gear. Once you do this, and learn to carry ALOT of momentum, its a great ITC car.

The advantages that the car has are a great suspension and great brakes (the same as the Si). Aero is also better than most of the cars in ITC.

There are lots of parts and support for this car since almost everything from the Si cars will fit. Any of the established IT shops Like OPM or Tom Blaney (above) can help you out.


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#22 ITC Honda Civic
3rd Place 2004 ARRC
1st Place 2004 ARRC Enduro
www.motorpride.com/Catch22

[John Kovach]

Thanks for the help!

I was looking in the IT rules and it seems that basicaly the only thing you can do to the motor is the 1mm overbore plus the port matching in the head. Is there anything else that I'm missing. I wanna start getting to work on my motor. Right now it burns oil so, that seems like the place to start. The IT rule book is real technical; maybe someone could break it down for me.

John

[Catch22]

The simplest way to approach the motor is to keep everything within factory tolerances. Many Honda folks overbore just 020 and use OEM Honda pistons. All decking should also be within factory tolerances.
You can do some machining on the valves and seats as well as port match the head (but no more than 1 inch into the head).

The rules actually aren't all that complicated. Just read them a few times before you actually start working on anything.

I don't know what your race experience is or how much budget you have, but I suggest doing safety equipment, GOOD safety equipment, first. Then worry about the motor and such.
A nice custom built cage from a builder that knows what they are doing along with a good drivers suit, helmet, seat, belts, and Head and Neck device just might save your life. Thats much more important that 5 more horsepower.


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#22 ITC Honda Civic
3rd Place 2004 ARRC
1st Place 2004 ARRC Enduro
www.motorpride.com/Catch22

[Chris Sawatsky]

srr (or ssr?) has a $450 final drive that will fit your transmission. A guy on honda-tech is selling them right now...