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Thread: brake probs..need help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    cleveland, ohio USA
    Posts
    119

    Default brake probs..need help

    CAR: 1990 CRX Si
    NEW PARTS:
    master cyl
    rotors
    pads
    calipers
    braided lines
    fluids, etc

    i'm having a problem finding a brake fix. the pedal goes all the way to the floor while the car is running. we replaced everything with no results. i also did all the tests in the helms for the master, booster and check valve.. everything seems OK. when the booster vacuum line is removed from the booster and plugged with my finger i have lots of pedal...where it should be..but when i release the hose the pedal goes to the floor again.

    i have talked to a few people about the brake booster being bad but i'm told they haven't ever seen a bad one. i think it has to be it...anyone???

    we did overheat the brakes very bad at the homestead enduro and they haven't been right since. i need help ASAP as we leave for the VIR enduro in few days. thanks in advance..
    ~Slacker Jay

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Monroeville, PA USA
    Posts
    541

    Default

    You have just confirmed a failure in the booster with the vacuum line test. I will assume that you bled the new MC before installing it.

    ------------------
    Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
    '89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
    '99 Prelude=a sweet song
    '03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow

    [This message has been edited by jc836 (edited June 10, 2003).]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    cleveland, ohio USA
    Posts
    119

    Default

    thanks for the reply...yes we did bleed the master on install. looks like a new booster is going in.

    ~jay

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Save your money on the booster for now. Your problem is probably in the booster push rod adjustment. Go to your local dealership and borrow the special tool to measure the pushrod. remove the master clyinder and attach the tool. start vehicle and measure the gap with a feeler guage. Th instructions are also in the service manual. Its kind of a pain to adjust the rod, it must be done under the dash. I made some tools to use. Let me know if I can help, I had the same problem a few years ago. After I figured it out I had awesome brakes. E-mail me privately with your phone# [email protected] if you need .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    LaCrosse Wis
    Posts
    302

    Default

    A couple of other ideas which are probably long shots. If you changed the rear brakes to disk, make sure that you also change the master to the '91 master cylinder. I believe the drum used a 1 3/4" size while the disk uses a 1 7/8" size cylider. Ask honda for sure. A second possibility is that if you have used pads, it may be possible to get the front pad cocked in the slot. It will feel right without vacuum but soon as you start the engine, all of your brake travel will be used bending the backing plate of the cocked pad. Good luck. bob.


    Originally posted by slackerjay:
    CAR: 1990 CRX Si
    NEW PARTS:
    master cyl
    rotors
    pads
    calipers
    braided lines
    fluids, etc

    i'm having a problem finding a brake fix. the pedal goes all the way to the floor while the car is running. we replaced everything with no results. i also did all the tests in the helms for the master, booster and check valve.. everything seems OK. when the booster vacuum line is removed from the booster and plugged with my finger i have lots of pedal...where it should be..but when i release the hose the pedal goes to the floor again.

    i have talked to a few people about the brake booster being bad but i'm told they haven't ever seen a bad one. i think it has to be it...anyone???

    we did overheat the brakes very bad at the homestead enduro and they haven't been right since. i need help ASAP as we leave for the VIR enduro in few days. thanks in advance..
    ~Slacker Jay

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    cleveland, ohio USA
    Posts
    119

    Default

    thanks for all the help!! we started with the master and that seemed to be it. we were kinda worried as for our night practice the right rotor was still glowing. it ended up being a WARPED upright from massive heat at homestead....now that's hot. we got everything worked out and had no problems from there on out. thanks again everyone.

    bob...what happened to you at summit?? i saw that you were towed in for a while.

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