ITS Integra - setup help?

[four27]

Louis and Tom Do you totally remove the front sway bar or just disconnect it. ?

[four27]

Cam gear question. I put adjustable cam gears on my car just for dyno purposes. the car liked 3 degrees advanced the most. (knowing that legally I have to adjust them both the same) (2.5hp gain) That is probably because my head is cut down 025. Then I put the stock gears back on and installed an offset key at the crank. Our calculations showed that 030 offset equals about 3degrees. I had a local machine shop make the key.

[jc836]

Novel idea-the offset Woodruff key-American Iron use them a lot . Not to be snotty-but the rule does say that you can substitute a cam gear of a fixed type-BUT-the cam timing must be stock. The argument can be made that all you are doing is correcting the timing since you milled the head. Then again I don't see how that works as the timing belt/chain has a tensioner that takes up slack.

As to Watkins Glen and the transitions onto the concrete-it is not bad as far as I'm concerned. Then again the Prelude is not on race springs. I'll know better when we take the CRX up if it is harsh or not.

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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song

[Knestis]

Offset keys are allowed only to the extent that the bring the cam timing back to the factory spec, after allowed head/deck machining. Is that what you are describing?

Kirk

[dpmurray]

Cam timing needs to Stock and not offset to most advantageous.

[jc836]

Kirk: Yes, that was my intent. I do see the specific allowance if the head is milled to ALLOW the use of a key. I was not contesting the use of a key as it is a fixed device.
I do not see it in the rule regarding the cam gear. There is simply no provision for an adjustable gear.

------------------
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song

[This message has been edited by jc836 (edited February 05, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by jc836 (edited February 05, 2003).]

[LTBMotorsports]

Remove the front sway bar you don't need it and why keep ( I think it is about 10 lbs ) unless you need to add weight to meet minumum than I would leave it and keep it disconnected.
Louis.

[HiRcc#21]

To answer you sway bar question four27, on my crx I just disconnected the front sway bar and used it to make class weight. The car did push alot worse with it connected. I did find that by upping the rear spring rates, the car handled better.
Once I installed the Quaife, the oversteer became more pronounced and as some one in here said, it was controllable throught "right pedal modulation".
If you have a LSD, I would suggest trying what Tom said, disconnect it and see what you get..then adjust the rear bar to fine tune to your needs. I use a rear bar from Progress Technologies that is adjustable, and it works great. (I sell Progress that is why I use that product)
Tires tell the Tale!
chris stiffler
NeOhio member
Ita crx #21

[Catch22]

I left my stock front bar connected.
I think Scott Seck does as well.

[LTBMotorsports]

Scott,

that is why you are both slow

By the way I sent you an email back 2 weeks ago and still have not received the answer.

Louis

[LTBMotorsports]

Scott,

that is why you are both slow

By the way I sent you an email back 2 weeks ago and still have not received the answer.

Louis

[R RACER]

I think leaving front bar off is the wrong direction, if your car is pushing it is for other reasons,sway bar end link length is important on front. If your car is pushing , how are your front temps across the board I found leaving front bar off will make it better in slow corners, but kills you on high speed exit corners or anything with elevation change.Sounds like you guys are running way too much spring in front or you are plain bottoming out.Ever check out your front shock travel close? Getting rid of the front sway bar or making it very loose is an old showroom stock trick. If you have the right shocks it makes all the difference. If you would like to discuss email me off this thread.

[LTBMotorsports]

Maybe Tom Fowler, Walt Pucket and many front wheel car driver and I we are all wrong and we need to keep the bar .....?????
Trust me all my life I raced front wheels drive cars and and always removed the front bar for traction.
All the people that I listed above won many championship and races and do you still think they are wrong ???
Also this is and IT car not showroom stock and you need to run high rate spring to make it handle.
I ran 2001 season on my CRX with no FRONT and REAR bar and won the ProIT Championship and the ECR series and you can ask anyone on this forum and they can tell you how fast my CRX was. Note also I finished second at the ARRC 2001 behind Tom Fowler in another CRX with no front bar also.

Louis

[This message has been edited by LTBMotorsports (edited February 05, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by LTBMotorsports (edited February 05, 2003).]

[R RACER]

ARE WE TALKING AN INTEGRA HERE OR A CRX? I'VE BEEN RACING AND PREPARING ACURA INTEGRA'S FOR YEARS, AND MY OPINION IS BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PARTICULAR CAR,I'M SURE YOU GUYS DO VERY WELL WITH YOUR CRX'S BUT ITS A DIFFERENT CAR.THE FRONT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY IS MUCH DIFFERNT ON LATER INTEGRA'S , I.E. NO RADIUS RODS AND OTHER FRONT TRAVEL ISSUES, I CAN GO ON AND ON. ANYWAYS IT WAS NICE TALKING TO YOU TODAY ON THE PHONE ABOUT YOU TRANSMISSION ISSUES. IF I CAN HELP YOU GIVE ME A CALL.ANTHONY

[LTBMotorsports]

we are talking about CRX, but even on Integra I would say it is still front wheel drive but I never driven one and you have and I guess it is different.
I will call you back today for more info on the Transmission.
Louis

[four27]

Originally posted by il8apex:
Removing it would probably help you turn and solve the "eating front tires" problem, too... Give it a shot, and let us know how it works!

-Tom

[high_rpm]

Guys, this is a lot of good advice on the Integra.

What is a good starting point for tire pressures?

On my ITC Civic, I usually started with 32/36 front/rear cold pressures and worked my way from there (if I ran higher pressures in front, then the Hoosiers would get slippery midway through races).

[Catch22]

I shot for 42ish hot in the front and 40ish hot in the rear. Worked well. Good grip and good wear.