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Thread: 1st gen CRX buyer's guide

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Cumming, GA
    Posts
    59

    Default 1st gen CRX buyer's guide

    I think that I have found a donor car for an ITC CRX. What do I need to look for to make sure I am getting the right shell (any VIN Decoding techniques?

    Also, what trouble areas are there for rust on the car?

    Anything else to watch for?

    Thanks,

    Dennis

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    You need a DX model, meaning it has to be carbed and not an HF...the HF had less features, less material in the body, nearly nonexistant bumpers, and aluminum rear drums, and a smaller axle beam. The HF has a 2" beam I belive, while the DX was larger.

    Rust areas to watch out for are the rear fenders (like all hondas), the front outer corners of the floor, and the rear edge of the floor before it kicks up for the gas tank. Also watch to see if the panhard rod mounting point is cracked...oftentimes they crack where the subframe comes out to form the panhard rod mount.

    ------------------
    Chris
    86 CRX Hybrid Turbo
    94 Miata
    60 MGA
    A few others in parts...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Outside of Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Hey Chris, would you mind dropping me a line about your setup? I have an 86 Si, with a D16A1 and am looking for anybody that has any knowlege about adding a turbo with my set up! I have to do something before next year -- the guy I usually run with in a 95 Civic EX, just got his GSR motor dropped off at his house! I can't have him leaving me behind during all our track weekends!

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Pickerington, Ohio
    Posts
    760

    Default

    <font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">the guy I usually run with in a 95 Civic EX, just got his GSR motor dropped off at his house! </font>[/b]
    Do you know what he's doing with his old SOHC VTEC motor???

    ------------------
    Matt Downing
    www.downingracing.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Outside of Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Yes I do! The #3 rod decided to come out and say 'Hi' down the front straight at summit point at the last CarGuys event! Completely Stock drivetrain, had Mobil 1 since birth, and died at a mere 68,000 miles, and about a dozen track weekends. Not sure what he's doing about the good stuff -- the head/distributor that sort of stuff yet. His email is [email protected]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    78

    Default

    [quote]Originally posted by Sonic:
    [B]You need a DX model, meaning it has to be carbed and not an HF...the HF had less features, less material in the body, nearly nonexistant bumpers, and aluminum rear drums, and a smaller axle beam. The HF has a 2" beam I belive, while the DX was larger.

    The '84-85 CRX so called DX had the same front bumpers. All '84-'87 DX's had the same rear bumpers, including HF's. The body of the HF and the DX were the same. Steel drums came on '86 and '87's. The HF had no inner sway bars (torsion bar) in the rear axle.

    Ed

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Rosey,
    E-mail me, [email protected], and I'll tell you all about it. My car is actually a Grassroots $2002 challenge car and is in the works, but should be cheap and fast, knock n wood.

    ------------------
    Chris
    86 CRX Hybrid Turbo
    94 Miata
    60 MGA
    A few others in parts...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    30

    Default

    It may be hard to check but my 87 DX had two areas of rust. One under the passenger side door sill plate and one on the unibody behind the passenger front fender between the door and wheel well. Also check the area around the seatbelt mounting bolts (inner ones by the e-brake console).

    Jason F.

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