1.8 8v cis-e that won't rev past 5000rpm

[Eric Parham]

87 GOLFS with FI came in at least 3 flavors:

1) CIS-E (with and without knock control)
2) CIS-Lambda
3) Digifant

If CIS-Lambda (black fuel distributor), I'd suspect the frequency valve.

If CIS-E (silver fuel distributor) WITH knock sensor, I'd start by checking the knock sensor circuit.

If CIS-E WITHOUT knock sensor, it might be the rev-limiting fuel pump relay or it's signal from the ignition.

If 49-state Digifant, I'd sell it

Oh, and with any of the above, it might well be a weak in-tank fuel pre-pump. They're actually pretty easy to change. This won't always show up in a pressure test since it only seems to limit fuel volume, and sometimes a strong main pump masks the symptoms.

[This message has been edited by Eric Parham (edited May 12, 2005).]

[VW16VRacer]

Not to be picky but the picture above is not a actual "control module". It is the coil final stage that boost's the voltage to the coil. The actual ignition control module is the knock box. I like the in-tank fuel pump test. Pull the cover over the fuel tank and remove the hose with the arrow pointing out, most likely a black hose and install a fuel line to a catch bucket in it's place. Jump the fuel pump relay and there should be fuel in your catch bucket(low presure, high volume). If not check to see that ther is 12V at the larger of the two wires in the plug, one is power and might be red with a black stripe and the brown ground, the other smaller wires are for the signal wires for the sender. If you have 12V with the fuel pump replay jumped then pull the sender unit and replace the pump and pick up screen. If I am reading your post correctly WB (wide band O2 sensor) is reading 21 then you are LEAN and have a fuel problem, a ignition problem would show up a rich, 11 or smaller. Also check the inlet banjo bolt to the fuel dist. from the main fuel pump. There is a micro filter in the bolt itself and should of been replaced/removed at the cars first service if the dealer was doing is job way back in the cars early days. This is the banjo bolt on the side of the fuel dist. not the check valve at the main pump. If it is there and/or plugged then take a small screwdriver and pry it out, make sure you get the whole thing out and cleaned up and put the banjo bolt back in. It was installed at the factory to remove debris when the car was built. If you went to the dealer and got a replacement bolt there would be no filter in it and you can not get a replacement with a filter, just as easy to remove it. Just my .02

Jon

[pfcs]

got a 2dr golf with digifant-rust free shell?

sell it to Phil! (better yet, give it)

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phil hunt

[Vantage #51]

Eric, our best results both on track and at the dyno are with the Digifant,try it, you might like the results.
Drek

[Vantage #51]

thats Derek,guys.

[spike]

Well, after doing every test in the manual and passing all but one.
no Ma from the pcu I replaced the ECU and the mixture is now 12.5 @6000rpm
I have not driven the car yet.( I really don't want to blast down my street!)

Question: The ECU I got has a red label and a different PN# then the one that was in the car.
Removed from a 88 cis-e Jettta.
my old ECU was green label 87 GTI

thanks for your help
spike

[zracre]

just make sure the control pressure is good and the warm up regulator is good too...too much fuel pressure and it will be lean too little and its rich...i made a fuel pressure regulator out of an old warm up regulator...it is easy and with a permanent fuel pressure guage under the hood you can adjust at the dyno or track...good luck

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Evan Darling
ITA Integra