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Thread: Epoxy floor covering

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    56

    Default

    I used to install epoxy floors for a few years after college. Here are a few tips.
    1. The ratio of water to muriatic acid is
    3parts water to 1 part acid.
    2. After acid etching the floor (the term
    for acid washing) rinse the floor with
    water. Then, scrub it again with a mix
    of water with a little Simple Green or
    a like detergent degreaser. Rinse
    again with water. This will help
    neutralize the acid in the concrete
    even more.
    3. The higher the solids content in the
    coating the better. This will make a
    heavier coating giving more durability
    4. Regarding what product...I don't know.
    The retail stuff is way different from
    the commercial grade stuff I used. I
    did use a Rustoleum product that was
    OK. Valspar makes good products.
    5. The prep is very important as others
    have stated.
    6. To protect against slippage use
    white aluminum oxide and spread
    it like you are feeding chicken.
    It is harder to clean though.
    I have been trying to figure out what product to use and am leaning toward Griots. I will have to check out U-Coat-It
    --Bill
    P.S. I am in no way responsible for anyone using my advice and screwing up their floor.


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Raleigh NC
    Posts
    3,682

    Default

    This is what you want:

    http://www.tnemec.com/

    http://www.tnemec.com/2004-144858-278.asp

    It is expensive, but it is the best and works very well. You get what you pay for with this stuff and if you're planning on staying where you are for many years pay the cash, prep it well, and this coating will do a fantastic job for you.

    ------------------
    Ron
    http://www.gt40s.com
    Lotus Turbo Esprit
    BMW E36 M3
    RF GT40 Replica
    Jensen-Healey: IT prep progressing!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    154

    Default

    There is a number of good products out there,I do not mean the store brand stuff either.I have applied the Ucoat-it product a number of times and it is awesome.They send you everything you need and anyone can put it on.Floor prep is key,but easy to do.A large 3 car garage was about $750,seems like alot but you will love it.Call them,they are very nice.
    Dave V.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Livonia,NY,USA
    Posts
    77

    Default

    I did my garage floor last year with a two part epoxy purchased from the local ICI coatings store. I followed their instructions for prep, acid etching (twice). I even rented a floor sander. The floor looked great at first, but it started to crack from the weight of the car on the jack every time I jacked it up. Also welding really screws it up. If I did it again, I would definitely have the floor bead blasted. This was recommended after I had the cracking problems. But all in all it still looks good.
    PS: It was hard to keep clean until I spilled some Castrol Superclean on it. That cleans it like crazy. Spray it on and mop it off with a wet mop.

    DC
    ITS 240Z

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    56

    Default

    DC-
    The reason your floor cracked is not because of the prep you did. Epoxies are very brittle and do not deal well with things being dropped on them. A clear urethane over the top gives much better elasticity. Yes, welding will mess up the floor. Most coatings are not going to be high temp resistant. Ask the manufacturer of the product if the floor can tolerate tools being dropped on it etc.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Black Rock, Ct
    Posts
    9,594

    Default

    Another option is VCT. Vynl Composite Tiles.

    They have the advantage of ebing MUCH less sensitive to prep, can be done a half garage at a time, eliminating the need to empty the garage for days, faster application, easy cleaning and maintenance, and the ability to repair just a local area if there is damage.

    Plus the cost is about a quarter.

    If there is interest I'll post links to a current thread with pictures on the Pelican site.

    ------------------
    Jake Gulick
    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    ITA 57 RX-7
    New England Region
    [email protected]

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Ashton, MD, USA
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Plus the cost is about a quarter.

    Jake, I can do my whole garage for 25 cents? Now I can afford to build that NB!

    ------------------
    "Bad" Al Bell
    ITC #3 Datsun 510
    DC Region MARRS Series

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Black Rock, Ct
    Posts
    9,594

    Default

    Originally posted by badal:
    Plus the cost is about a quarter.

    Jake, I can do my whole garage for 25 cents? Now I can afford to build that NB!


    Ummm.. yes...provided your garage is 6" by 6"....

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    451

    Default

    Jake, consider this "interest". Please post the link.

    EDIT: Found it: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....ht=garage+floor

    Got distracted on the way, though....
    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....20&pagenumber=1

    Jarrod

    [This message has been edited by JIgou (edited September 09, 2004).]

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Newtown, CT
    Posts
    379

    Default

    Well, better late than never...THE FLOOR IS DONE!

    I know I was supposed to take photos of the process, but my workload at the office did not permit me to take Friday off (damn Oracle implementation), so I had to squeeze the entire process into two days.

    Random Notes:
    -Did the muriatic acid wash (stinky stuff)
    -Floor needs to be damp/wet before you start painting
    -DO NOT leave a mystery puddle of water and roller through it....makes a big mess and takes a little while to clean before continuing
    -Use the granular stuff to add grip....whereever I let it go too thin (corners, etc) it is slick when wet
    -I should have left a thicker coat during the intial base coat....I have paint left over

    So far I am VERY satisfied, just waiting to see how it holds up to heavy work (and welding). Below are some photos of the finished product which do not do the floor complete justice.

    Put here any questions and I will be happy to answer them.

    Regards,
    Alan

    http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/images/...misc/Alan_1.JPG
    http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/images/...misc/Alan_2.JPG
    http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/images/...misc/Alan_3.JPG
    http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/images/...misc/Alan_4.JPG

    Thanks to Flatout Motorsports for offering up some server space!

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