Shelby Charger

[Matt Rowe]

Well, the locked in gear problem is not one I've had to personally deal wth, yet. Having said that I'm looking forward to the next time I load the car on the trailer.

Just throwing some ideas out there. It's possible to pull the access cover on top of the trans pretty easily and get a look at the shift mechanism. That would give you a chance to see if it somehow managed to engage two gears at once and MAYBE be able to free things up without having to pull the trans. Of course typically when I hear about locked transmissions (of other makes) it usually related to a flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing issues so seperation may be you're only choice.

In reality, I don't have a clue on this one since I've never had to deal with it, or even know of anyone who has had to deal with it for a Dodge. I wish I could be more help. But I wouldn't discount using a wrecker boom to lift the car and at least get it off the trailer to work on. You do have AAA, right?

Good luck.

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by Matt Rowe@Sep 13 2005, 03:47 PM
Well, the locked in gear problem is not one I've had to personally deal wth, yet. Having said that I'm looking forward to the next time I load the car on the trailer.

Just throwing some ideas out there. It's possible to pull the access cover on top of the trans pretty easily and get a look at the shift mechanism. That would give you a chance to see if it somehow managed to engage two gears at once and MAYBE be able to free things up without having to pull the trans. Of course typically when I hear about locked transmissions (of other makes) it usually related to a flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing issues so seperation may be you're only choice.

In reality, I don't have a clue on this one since I've never had to deal with it, or even know of anyone who has had to deal with it for a Dodge. I wish I could be more help. But I wouldn't discount using a wrecker boom to lift the car and at least get it off the trailer to work on. You do have AAA, right?

Good luck.

[snapback]60092[/snapback]

Matt: Thanks for the advice. Hope to at least get started on it tomorrow. I'll keep you informed on the progress, hopefully with photos.

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by RacerBill@Sep 13 2005, 09:50 PM
Matt: Thanks for the advice. Hope to at least get started on it tomorrow. I'll keep you informed on the progress, hopefully with photos.

[snapback]60114[/snapback]

Update: New trailer ramps are on the way. Old ones were a little more than 3ft long and steel. New ramps are 6ft. long aluminum.

Harbor Freight had a fire sale on vehicle dollys, so a set of four now sits in the garage.

The plan: I have a friend in the tree trimming business who has a truck with a boom and log lifter (he says it will pick up a street Toyota). We'll sling the front of the car and get it up enough to roll the trailer out from under it, and place the locked wheels on the dollies.

Let you all know if we survive!

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by RacerBill@Sep 20 2005, 09:16 AM
Update: New trailer ramps are on the way. Old ones were a little more than 3ft long and steel. New ramps are 6ft. long aluminum.

Harbor Freight had a fire sale on vehicle dollys, so a set of four now sits in the garage.

The plan: I have a friend in the tree trimming business who has a truck with a boom and log lifter (he says it will pick up a street Toyota). We'll sling the front of the car and get it up enough to roll the trailer out from under it, and place the locked wheels on the dollies.

Let you all know if we survive!

[snapback]60679[/snapback]

OK, we got the car off the trailer last night. Better than AAA. I have a friend at church who is in the tree trimming and removal business who just happens to have a truck with a crane that can pick up two ton logs. Wrapped a chain around the jaws, attached the chain to a sling on the frame, picked up the front and walked the car back off the trailer. Once the rear wheels were off the ramps, we removed the ramps, moved the car back another two feet and lowered the front wheels onto vehicle dollies. Took about a 1/2 hour (took our time, car didn't come near the railing on the trailer!).

Got home before the crane arrived, and there were the new trailer ramps I ordered. The ones that came with the trailer were about three feet long. New ones came from Discount Ramps (www(dot)discountramps(dot)com. Six ft. aluminum, 12 in wide, flat, rated at 2500lb per axle. Together, they weigh less than one of the old ramps. $210 plus shipping but they arrived in two days. SOOOOO much better!

Bargain number two! Looked up vehicle dollies at Harbor Freight. The website listed two sets, one set of two for $80 and one set of four for $114. Went to the local store and they just had the set of two on the showroom floor. So I asked about a set of four. The clerk said he did not think they had them, but he would check the price. When he came back, he said the did not have the price for the set of four, but the sets of two were on sale (not marked on the display models) for $40 a set. So, a set of four now sits in the garage, along with a brand new 1/2in torque wrench for tightening lug nuts.

Now to work learning about transmissions.

[m glassburner]

Wow sounds like a labor of love !! I know how you feel....I've never had the trans lock up on me ?? It does sound like two gears are selected though. Which trans are you using ?? The 525 I assume ??? the trick is gears....Send me an e-mail and we'll talk b.t.w. the omni and spares are for sale :P....good luck !!

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by m glassburner@Sep 28 2005, 02:19 PM
Wow sounds like a labor of love !! I know how you feel....I've never had the trans lock up on me ?? It does sound like two gears are selected though. Which trans are you using ?? The 525 I assume ??? the trick is gears....Send me an e-mail and we'll talk b.t.w. the omni and spares are for sale :P....good luck !!

[snapback]61366[/snapback]

Took off top cover of the transmission today, and compared it to the spare I have on the backup engine. All the selectors look like the transmission is in neutral. But it is still locked. Time for plan 'B'. We have started to disconnect wiring, plumbing, and cables to take out the engine.

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by RacerBill@Oct 2 2005, 11:38 PM
Took off top cover of the transmission today, and compared it to the spare I have on the backup engine. All the selectors look like the transmission is in neutral. But it is still locked. Time for plan 'B'. We have started to disconnect wiring, plumbing, and cables to take out the engine.

[snapback]61667[/snapback]

Update: Engine/trans out. Took bad trans off good engine. Spent about two hours cleaning one of the spare trans. Got it back onto the good engine. Will finish cleaning the engine bay today and torque all the engine/trans bolts. Plan to put the engine/trans back in on Sat.

[Matt Rowe]

I'm guessing you didn't find anything obviously wrong with the original trans yet? Please keep us (or at least me) informed when you know what happened. And good luck getting it back together. Are you trying to make another event this season or is the weather closing in up there yet?

[RacerBill]

Originally posted by Matt Rowe@Oct 6 2005, 05:10 PM
I'm guessing you didn't find anything obviously wrong with the original trans yet? Please keep us (or at least me) informed when you know what happened. And good luck getting it back together. Are you trying to make another event this season or is the weather closing in up there yet?

[snapback]61978[/snapback]

Yes, we are trying to get to a Double Rergional at Nelson Ledges 10/15-16. With a little luck, we can get a half day open test on Friday, as well. Or two hours at Columbus Motor Speedway ($10, 15 minute tow. Its and oval, but at least I can drive the car and adjust the shift linkage).

I have two complete spare powertrains, so with limited time, I did the trannie swap. Have all winter to take apart the old trannie, and see what went wrong. Taking the access panel off the top did not reveal any reason why she was locked up.


Plan is to drop the engine back in tomorrow.

By the way, when I took apart the linkage, I found one ball and socket that was secured with a clip (about a half inch wide, flat bottom with a hole, u-shaped, with the top contoured to fit over the socket. Is this a dodge part, or should NAPA have them?

Also, I did not check the old trannie, but the new trannie has ATF, not oil or gear lube (agrees with Haynes manual). That OK, or should I drain and use regular 10W30?

Thanks.

[Matt Rowe]

Originally posted by RacerBill+Oct 7 2005, 08:40 AM-->

By the way, when I took apart the linkage, I found one ball and socket that was secured with a clip (about a half inch wide, flat bottom with a hole, u-shaped, with the top contoured to fit over the socket. Is this a dodge part, or should NAPA have them?

[snapback]62021[/snapback]

[/b]

Dodge found there were problems with those joints seperating and issued a TSB to cover installing that clip to prevent the linkage from popping apart. I don't think Napa (help! brand of parts?) would carry them but I could be wrong. Iused to get them at the dealer althogh it may be a pain to find the part number. If nothing else have them look up the TSB and the part number should be stated there.

<!--QuoteBegin-RacerBill@Oct 7 2005, 08:40 AM
Also, I did not check the old trannie, but the new trannie has ATF, not oil or gear lube (agrees with Haynes manual). That OK, or should I drain and use regular 10W30?

[snapback]62021[/snapback]

I run Redline MTL (manual trans lube) in my trans. Just makes for a better feel and is more stable from dead cold to high temp.

[RacerBill]

Update: Engine and spare trannie are in the car . Suspension is back together (I pulled the ball joints to get the axles out - pickle fork was cheaper than another alignment). Added wire ties to secure the sockets on the linkage rods from seperating from the balls. This will have to due unless I can get the part numbers of the clips (I called a Chrysler dealer and the parts department know about the clips, just don&#39;t know what the part number is, and their TB&#39;s only go back into the 90&#39;s).

The transmissions feels a lot better (I can shift into all gears). The only thing left is to fasten, connect and tighten down all the fittings that had been removed, and top off fluids. This weekend is looking better.

Having the engine/trans out gave me the opportunity to finish painting the engine bay. Looks a lot more finished.

[lateapex911]

Originally posted by RacerBill@Oct 10 2005, 08:01 AM
Update: .... Added wire ties to secure the sockets on the linkage rods from seperating from the balls.

[snapback]62184[/snapback]

The plastic kind?? Are you worried about heat? Saftey wire could be an alternative.

[Matt Rowe]

Originally posted by lateapex911@Oct 10 2005, 10:31 PM
The plastic kind?? Are you worried about heat? Saftey wire could be an alternative.

[snapback]62256[/snapback]

It&#39;s not a heat issue as much as they just don&#39;t hold up well the rigors of shifting. Safety wire has been tried by various people before but there isn&#39;t really a good way to hold things together without overly restraining the linkage.

[m glassburner]

5w-30 mobile 1 oil works well,we&#39;ve had only had only two minor trans problems in 5 years, same trans....saftey wire also helps ..p.s. change the oil after every race weekend cheap insurance.

[RacerBill]

Well, it&#39;s been a while since I updated this thread. Going to try and post a picture of the car.

[attachmentid=430]

What do you know, it worked. This picture was taken in January or February. The shift linkage is still out in Portland OR hopefully getting fitted with heim joints in order to keep it all together. I purchased poly bushings for the front sway bar since when I took the bar out, the bushings looked pretty old and worn.

At least all of the electrics, gauges, tach, mirrors, etc are all finished. I got all the battery and master switch terminals covered, so we should be ready for annual tech.

Target date for first outing is the Cincy double regional at Mid Ohio the first week in July.

In the meanwhile, I have been doing some busy work, rebuilding a second carb, cleaning up a spare valve cover (thinking about getting the chrome redone), stuff like that. Probably get another set of rims ready. My son just talked the auto shop where he works into becoming a distributor for Tire Rack and he is getting me a new set of rains (Kumho Ecsta 700&#39;s in an odd size but the price is unbelievable, can&#39;t pass them up). His shop is in Bakersfield CA so if anyone is needing to pick up tires on the way to the track PM me and I can get you in touch with him.

Well, just thought I would update the thread. Hope to have some racing news soon.

[RacerBill]

Well, after several months, I think that my shift linkage parts are finally going to be returned. Hopefully they will be reworked with the heim joints. I&#39;ll know better when they arrive. I will have to deal with the parts that I ordered from Chrysler later.

Looking forward towards making the Cincy regional at Mid-Ohio.

[Greg Amy]

The shift linkage is still out in Portland OR hopefully getting fitted with heim joints...[/b]

[lateapex911]

What Greg means is probably......

something like:

"Hey, it&#39;s great to get cars out there, and we love diversity, but........we also want guys to respect the rulebook and one another...isn&#39;t it illegal to modify (which it sounds like you are doing) shift linkages? Short shifters are not allowed, and no mods are allowed unless spelled out. Can&#39;t think of the rule that allows the addition of heim joints to the shift linages.....or are we missing something?"

Or something like that, ...

[RacerBill]

Wellllllll, I&#39;m not trying to shorten the shift, and keeping all the rod lengths the same should not do this. The problem is a safety issue. The design is so poor, that the shift linkage has fallen apart in 100% of the sessions that the car has been on the track. I have been fortunate enough and familiar enough with Mid-Ohio to know all the safe places to hide the car and not cause any incidents.

There are clips available from Chrylser, but the part number for the clips is not listed in the hard copy parts catalog.

Chrylser replaced the entire design in later years, but not for the years that are covered on the spec line. Thought that fasteners (as in holding two parts together) were open. I am still using the stock shift lever, pivot ball, long shift tube, rods, pivots, and mounting brackets. I can see where using different pivots might alter the length of throw for the shift lever, but those are remaining stock.

[lateapex911]

Well....a rules purist could bust your chops on that kind of thing, although to be honest, we all have bigger fish to fry, LOL.

Just don&#39;t go winning right out of the box, then bragging in the impound about how it shifted so crisply and quickly, LOL.....