What Could This Be?

[Simon]

Hey,
Ok, this is posted twice in this and in the Honda section but thought maybe two would be better and since its a Honda.... However it does not have really any Honda tech needed. I recently got back my rebuilt head, included a valve job, new seals, and other things on my 1989 Honda Civic Std. 1.5 liter fuel injection car, it has no fuel injectors, its like a carb. So I spent all day yesterday putting it back together, and this morning putting in oil, spark plugs, etc. So when I fired it up..... bang it went on, BUT I had to spray starter fluid in to make it start, then it would stall. It would not idle, or keep running if I tried with the gas. The motor sounded very very good, loud but wouldnt keep running. I checked all wires, I believe they are in the right spot, I am pretty certain, I checked fuel pump, it has alot of pressure. I have no clue what to do! Any ideas?? Please help!!!!! I can show pics if needed.

Simon

[racer_tim]

Originally posted by Simon:

So when I fired it up..... bang it went on, BUT I had to spray starter fluid in to make it start, then it would stall. It would not idle, or keep running if I tried with the gas. The motor sounded very very good, loud but wouldnt keep running. I checked all wires, I believe they are in the right spot, I am pretty certain, I checked fuel pump, it has alot of pressure. I have no clue what to do! Any ideas?? Please help!!!!! I can show pics if needed.
Simon

Simon, re-check the timing, and the cam alignment. My guess is that the cam is off at least 1 tooth.



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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit (Bent)
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[Geo]

Sounds like throttle body injection (single large injector) rather than port injection (one or more per cylinder). Either way, your injector is either not getting fuel or is not spraying. I'm guessing it's not getting the signal to spray.

I'm not too familiar with Hondas, but it could be in your crank sensor, ECU, wiring. That said, I'm a monkey when it comes to eletronics. I can't be much further help.


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George Roffe
Houston, TX
84 944 ITS car under construction
92 ITS Sentra SE-R occasionally borrowed
http://www.nissport.com

[Simon]

Hey,

Ok thanks.... Ill give it a try!!!

Simon

[Bill Miller]

Simon,

I agree w/ Tim, check both the valve and the ignition timing. Also, just a word of warning, use starting fluid sparingly, as it's some dangerous stuff. It's highly flamable, and using too much can actually hurt your engine (it will detonate).

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

[Mark LaBarre]

If cam timing checks out look for vacuum leaks.
Mark

[Greg Gauper]

First off, are you getting any ECU codes?

That might help.

Did you disconnect any temperature sensors?

I spent yesterday experimenting with my car trying to remove a temperature sensor that is no longer installed (my gauge is installed in it's place). I dunked the sensor in hot water and measured the resistance value at 180 degrees and stuck a suitable resistor in place of the sensor so that the ECU always thought the engine was warm. Spent the next 20 minutes trying to get the car to start. It would crank, pop, and die. Put the sensor back in so that the ECU new the engine was cold and the car started up just fine! Warmed up the car, installed the resistor and the car started just fine.

BTW - This is on a prod car. I knew the sensor wasn't needed when the car was warmed up and I'm on track at WOT, so I wanted to try and clean up some of the unused stuff under the hood. Now I'm thinking I should wire the sensor plug up to two resistors in parallel and have a switch shunt the 'cold' resistor with a 'warm' one and deal with it manually...........or I could leave the stock sensor in and live with the rats nest under the hood. Sounds like the advise I got from Sargis told me at the runoffs

"Always err on the side of laziness"

[racer_tim]

Greg, why go down that route? Just another thing to go wrong at the wrong time.

With the FI stuff, LEAVE IT ALONE.

I know that I'm not as smart as the guys in Germany, and if it's not broke, don't fix it.



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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit (Bent)
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[Greg Gauper]

My concern is two-fold

1) I have a sensor flopping around because the hole in the head where it used to go is now occupied by my temperature gauge sensor

2) I was concerned about having the sensor installed but not 'seeing' a warm engine i.e. the engine is warm, but because the sensor is flopping around loose, it thinks it is cold. I was concerned that the fuel mapping on this motor mught be affected if the engine is warm but the sensor reads cold. I did learn that if the engine is cold but the ECU thinks it is warm, the *@#%%! won't start.

I tried a compromise by fastening the sensor with tywraps so that it touches a heater hose and senses some heat but this seemed hokey to me. I don't want to remove the sensor (or at least jumper it out with a resistor) so that I don't get any bogus ECU codes. I don't consider my resistor scheme to be too complicated...worst case is the resistor comes loose and I get an ECU code. With the sensor, if I try and install it in some other coolant line, I have just created a potential coolant leak source. Ultimately I want to plug and remove any and all unused coolant lines for reliability and servicing ease. (Rules disclamor - this is a prod car, not an IT car).

[This message has been edited by Greg Gauper (edited October 06, 2003).]