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Oil system routing?
I'm finally making the jump to a remote filter mount and a new oil cooler. Since I'm starting from scratch at this point, is there a preference on the routing order of the filter and cooler?
Should it be "block>filter>cooler>block" (hot oil through filter)OR "block>cooler>filter>block"?
I'm using a super-fancy CV Products remote filter mount with 2 IN ports, 1 OUT, and a 1/8"NPT on the OUT side for a pressure or temp sender. My logic has been to measure oil temp coming out of the block because that's where it's hottest, besides the pan itself (is this correct?).
Also, since I have an extra IN port on the filter mount, could I use that to plumb an Accusump if/when I thought that was necessary? I have no idea how those things hook up to the oil system.
Thanks for any and all help,
Michael
#09 ITA SEDIV
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Michael, I ran mine block-filter-cooler-block. Reason being I didn't want whatever particles that might be in the oil to get into the cooler to clog it or slow the flow. I also thought it a good idea to run the hot oil as the longest line to the cooler. The line coming out of the cooler should be the shortest because of the obvious change in oil viscosity as it cools...that being said, I couldn't run the hot line as the longer because I screwed up when I cut the lines, and didn't have spare hose.
Any luck with the 240's oil pan?
I've been thinking about running a Accusump too, but also don't know much practical stuff about them. I can't imagine what everything will look like with a remote filter, Accusump, oil cooler and all the lines...what a mess!
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Hey Tim, that's what I'm thinking too but figured I'd throw it out here to see if there was another opinion.
Oil pan: $800 and 3 months, less $$$ if we could get a bunch made. But the guy has only done the 12-valve; don't know what difference there might be between the two pans.
Two thoughts on the pan: 1)power 2)engine life. If I forgo the search for more power, and I can provide engine life with the Accusump, I'll save the $400.
How's your car coming? I'm shooting for Oct. 31 test day at Moroso.
Michael
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I also went block filter cooler block. I have to say that CV Products remote oil filter mount is one slick piece of machining!
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-Scott Gallimore
-ITC #88 Pulsar
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Michael,
Who are you talking to about the oil pan? I would like to add a larger pan myself to the 240. Is this Tim Morrissey in Topeka? Three month turn around time? Yikes. I need one for a 12 valve, but I would be surprized if the oil pan is hugely different on the twin cam block. I would be willing to go in with you if we can fanagle a bit of a discount by having a few folks.
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Tristan Smith
Buffalo's Southwest Cafe
ITA Nissan 240sx #56
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By the by, I go block, oil filter, cooler, block.
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Tristan Smith
Buffalo's Southwest Cafe
ITA Nissan 240sx #56
[This message has been edited by Tristan Smith (edited October 21, 2003).]
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My car was finished with a base coat of paint and ready for a test day. I had the state championship kart race the same weekend and decided I was too tired after all and skipped the test day. I tore the car back down, so I could finish painting. One step forward, two steps back http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif
I've been doing a SR20DET swap for a guy in a S14 for the past couple weeks, so the race car has been on the back burner.
That oil pan is a little steep for me too. I may just go Accusump as well. As far as power robbing oil pans go, the KA isn't that bad, but It looks like anyone that races with a KA needs to look into additional oiling because they tend to go dry in long corners.
I have plans for Halloween, or I'd be at Moroso with you in my car. Good luck!
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Hi,
You guys are correct. its always a good practice to run the oil through the filter before the cooler.
This keeps the big chunks out of the oil cooler should you have an unexpected disassymbley.
glad you like the CV stuff too!!!
Dan Kent
CV Products
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I also do the block-filter-cooler-block. Coupla side notes related. I run a VDO temp gauge (fits and blends in perfectly with my stock gauges), and the sender is installed in the remote filter head. On my remote filter head, there's a boss top dead center you can drill and tap, which hangs the temp sender right in the center top of the filter. Clearly designed for that. The remote filter mount is the 4-port one from RPW.
Plumbing in the Accusump: as I've done it, here's the run-down. You need a check valve inline to keep oil pressure from the Accusump from pi$$ing back out the pump in the event of pump failure or sucking air - mine therefore is between the block and filter. This is the only part that is exposed to dirty oil.
After the filter I tee to the Accusump and out to the cooler. Well, actually, to the oil thermostat, then the cooler. That way the Accusump is holding clean oil only, and will replace oil flow from the filter/pump if necessary.
I may yet change my oiling strategy again - like the way the CM filters can provide a breather function - seems very important to keep 944's alive. Wondering if that might be helpful. Any thoughts out there?
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Vaughan Scott
Detroit Region #280052
'79 924 #77 ITA/GTS1
www.vaughanscott.com
