I saw that Motorsport auto has Sathl headers available. They are built to order in your choice of tubing size. Does anyone have experience with these?
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I saw that Motorsport auto has Sathl headers available. They are built to order in your choice of tubing size. Does anyone have experience with these?
Rick, They are supposed to be some of the best made. Katman thinks alot of them. Maybe he'll chime in here. I want a set of 1 3/8" primaries for my street 240Z. They are pretty costly. Sam Neaves at LNA makes a header that is used by several EP & ITS racers as well.Quote:
I saw that Motorsport auto has Sathl headers available. They are built to order in your choice of tubing size. Does anyone have experience with these?
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kthomas your take on the Stahl header?
Beautiful piece, well constructed, gasket matched port (like the NISMO headers), nice transitions to the collectors. You'll want to hang it on the mantle instead of the car, but I digress. Good compromise on primary length, biased a bit to higher rpm power.
Good news is the Stahl will be about as much power as a well developed custom for half the price. Bad news is it will only be a few horsepower more than something half IT'S price, because there just ain't much we can do constrained by the stock intake runner length and stock cam. *However*, I say that assuming most people won't spend the big bucks on engine dyno time that is required to make stock carbs work with a particular header. If you can do that then a Stahl or custom can reap another 4-8 hp over the other commercially available choices. YMMV. I could be wrong (but not likely :) )
So, oh wise Katman, if I were to order one of these, what size primary and collector should I specify?
Ditto ty's question. You think it worth it over the piece I showed in the other posts?
Ron
What I'd want would be 1-1/2 OD primaries with .083 wall tubing and 2-1/8 OD collectors, but what I'd take is 1-1/2 OD primaries with the normal .065 wall tubing and 2-1/4 OD collectors (you could always choke them down with an insert if you got some dyno time). Then I'd collect the secondaries into a single 2-3/4 OD about 2 feet later but I'd take a 3" OD and then cap it off with a Borla. But before I wrote the check I'd have a conversation with Jere to see if he agrees.
"You think it worth it over the piece I showed in the other posts?"
I think there's a lot of horsepower to be gained in the chassis (he who stomps on the gas first always looks like he's cheating by the end of the straight) ;)
"Worth" is hard for me to say for somebody else. In our case we had exhausted (no pun intended) practically every other aspect of the program (not just the engine stuff) and since I had access to lots of headers and could build my own and fool around with all that for not too much dyno money so it was worth our time. In your case it may be worth $750 or whatever to know you have a quality piece and aren't sacrificing more than a couple hp over a $1200 custom Sunbelt header, for example. Whether or not say the 4 hp you might gain over the header you have verus the Stahl is worth $750 I'd say yes if it wasn't my money. :biggrinsanta:
Ron, Are you talking about Sam Neave's header that Steve Parrish & Guy Marvin run?Quote:
Ditto ty's question. You think it worth it over the piece I showed in the other posts?
Ron
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No, the one off my motor shown in the High High Do You Rev your Z Thread.
Keith, I think I agree completely with you on my program. My chassis/handling is where I need to focus, then driving, then motor. All I want is a reliable motor that gets me on track everytime and gets me off track everytime (been towed in enough!!!).
I know there is a lot I need with stiffer springs, better damping, and lots of attention to setup. I'm convinced that my $$$ would best be put into chassis and track time.
R