Tire rack mounting

I have a new 24' enclosed trailer and I'm looking for any and all opinions for mounting a tire rack inside. Below are a few pictures of my tire racks. If I screw into the wall beams, will I need additional support in the middle, or will a wall beam on each end be enough? It's just long enough to hit a beam on each end.

It sure would suck if the thing tore out from the wall and bounced around inside until I stop to unload.

http://a8.cpimg.com/image/A0/BA/14933408-1...0-02000180-.jpg
http://a8.cpimg.com/image/AA/BB/14933418-3...2-02000180-.jpg

e-track on the walls with support bars across the trailer in between. put the tires on the bars. mine are over the hood of the car, but i have seen others with them in the back of the trailer.

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Originally posted by johng:
It sure would suck if the thing tore out from the wall and bounced around inside until I stop to unload.

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Yep, it sure does!

I can tell you how not to install one http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif.

On edit--ooops forgot to tell you how not to. Don't use sheet metal screws into the wall beams. I made my rack of lightweight aluminum. I used the largest diameter self tapping sheet metal screws I could get that were still short enough to go through the 3/8" plywood walls and the wall beams without piercing the outer trailer skin. I tied into every wall beam (16" on center) along the length of the rack, screws 6" apart vertically. I only had 8 lightweight ULFF Panasports w/Hoosier slicks, Combined tire and wheel weight might have been 140 pounds. I weigh 165 and was able to do chinups on the thing. So I felt safe.

Then one day...I drive over a speed bump in a parking lot and hear "something" in the trailer crash. Not cool. Pull off into a couple of spaces and open the side door. Aluminum tire rack and tires into the body of my brand new 13-month frame up Crossle Formula Ford restoration!

H-beams with load bars is the only way to go. Unless you are fortunate enough to have 4 lightweight Formula Vee tires/wheels that you can stack in a corner 2' diameter 2' high http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif. They are so cute 5.5" wide tires on 4.5" rims made from a 12 pack of recycled aluminum cans.

[This message has been edited by Daryl DeArman (edited January 27, 2005).]

Why not just fab yourself a square-tube frame? 1" is plenty of strength for that weight, and you can bolt your existing tire racks to it. Design it such that the load bearing is to the feet on the floor of the trailer, have it straddle the front of the car, and snug fit it against the nose wall-to-wall. From there all you have to do is properly secure it to the walls of the trailer to keep it from tipping.

One afternoon and some steel tubing, and you're done.

There are very high grade and strong structural screws that are self drilling and tapping that are used all the time in the construction industry. I used Tek 5's (or something similar) and screwed my tire rack to the vertical studs of my trailer. I have had no problem as of yet. Try Fastenal or some similar company and they will have a fastner for you.

I just looked them up in the Fastenal book. Go to Fastenal.com and type in 32657 in the product search area. Something like this is what you want. Not a regular sheet metal screw like 31020.

Good luck.

Michael

edited to add more info.

[This message has been edited by ilateapex (edited January 27, 2005).]

I put e-track on each side of my trailer. And I bought two aluminum shoring beams with e-track connectors, running from one side to the other. The e-track also is used to hang pvc conduit that contains the poles for the awning. The whole setup, including hangers, pvc and awning conduit cost about $250. And the e-track carries the load across the length of the trailer.

Tom

(gotta learn how to spell)

[This message has been edited by Tom Donnelly (edited January 27, 2005).]

My screws themselves did not fail. They pulled out of the steel in the wall studs (enlarged the holes while pulling out. Not from being loose and enlarging the holes.

It happen precisely on the downwards compression of the speed bump landing. That mommentary load must have been pretty high.

Now, not do I only drive very slowly with my tow vehicle over the bumps, but I also watch the trailer axles go over the bumps very slowly.

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Daryl,

The screw pulling out of the steel is a due to using the wrong screw for the application. No disrespect to your screws, but if they were true "sheet metal" screws they are not designed to support any substantial weight. The structural screws are designed not to pull out. They actually cut threads into the steel. I have used them in many applications to support and suspend equipment.

Just letting others know of the options.

Michael

Thanks everyone.
It looks like some of you are attaching the rack to one wall (as I'd prefer to do), and others are spanning both walls. I plan on installing cabinets up front, so I'm reserving space up there for that.

Another idea was suggested to me that I add a back-brace to my tire rack and screw through that so I can hit each wall stud along the length of the rack. I might give that a try.

Thanks again.
John

So where did you guys get your tire racks? I did some searching on the web and only came up with a couple places. Basically the PitPal hang on the wall one and a couple other look alikes. I've got plenty of room in my trailer and was thinking of maybe some sort of two tiered rack along a wall that could hold 8 tires with some leg supports attached to the floor. I couldn't find anything like this. I suppose I could make one if I could weld, but I can't (may try and pick up that skill). So I was trying to find something premade. Any ideas?

Thanks.

David

I had a friend make and weld mine out of aluminum. See the pictures above and use them for reference.

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Originally posted by ilateapex:
The structural screws are designed not to pull out. They actually cut threads into the steel.

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No problem Michael. I'd love to figure out how I can reinstall the rack with some confidence that it isn't going to come crashing down.

Where can I find out specs on these structural screws. How fine pitch are they and how thin of metal can I install them in.

If they are 20TPI for example, and I have .060" wall steel wall joists I don't even get 1-1/4 threads.

--Daryl DeArman
junior member now that I have changed my screen name.