Help with hubs?

I am getting new hubs/bearings for my 89 CRXsi. I work at an Acura dealer and the bearing numbers for the crx are the same as an 86-89 integra. However the hubs are not the same part number??? Anyone have any info as to what is different. The only reason I ask is that obviously I get a better price on the Acura parts then the Honda parts (like there's a diference between the two!) Any ways if anyone knows what the difference in the hubs are please reply otherwise I'm just going to order the Honda hubs.

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Gordon Galloway
Honda CRXsi
IT2 #32

Hey Gord, if you dont mind me piggybacking on your question i got a question about hubs for a crx too. im about to order my set too, but just want to make clear that the rear hub includes the bearing right? and the bearing and the hub are separate up front? any other part needed to replace when changing these things, helms doesnt say anything but maybe theres more practical advice out there.

Be careful, guys. I've had trouble with my '93 Civic and front bearings. When I ordered replacements, the bearings wouldn't fit (too small). As it turns out my car (without ABS) requires the ABS bearing. Don't know if you'll have similar problems with the Acuras...

Best to order bearings by size, I think.

I can't help with the hubs. The only thing I can think of is that they may be different stackups to provide different offset with different wheels? Duh... I'll quit guessing now!

-Tom

Tyson, Yes the rear hubs come as a complte bearing/hub assy. The only thing to mention is that now is the time to switch to longer wheel studs (I use studs from a 96-98 TL as I get them dirt cheap, I have heard of other brands as well). An yes il8apex the hubs for an ABS and non ABS vehicle can be different however us with CRX's are not privaledged enought o own anything new enough that would have abs(just kidding) 86-89 teg's didn't have ABS and I suspect that your opinion about wheel offset is probably right however I am just hoping someone may have investigated this further and knows for sure, thanks for the input!

Gord, there's a good chance that the Acura bits are stronger, which could be a good thing, since CRX hubs seem to be failure prone (although the jury is still out).

I suppose you could get acura ones and compare them? Send them back if they don't fit/work.

I, for one, would love to hear that they are a little beefier, I'd get some in a heartbeat. Just for piece of mind.

Oh, yeah, this "mod" would be highly lllegal, I know.... Shhhhhh.... no-one will notice!

Unfortunately I already bought the proper ones and put them in today...And unfortunately it's not as simple for me to just order the Acura part and if not right send it back as since I work there if I order it I have pretty much bought it as I get it for ACURA cost...hence why if it was better and cheaper and would work but were not really sure yet.However if I do bearings on an 86-89 teg I will definitely save the hubs and compare them to mine for futrure reference and I will also let you know...until then I hope the CRX ones will due?

I'm still wondering if the "weak" nature of the CRX hubs is more legend than fact...

Perhaps someone can shed some light on this?

Every time I've heard of hub failure, there's been mention of wheel bearing going bad, too, usually in the same sentence.

I'd like to know the specific nature of these failical failures, ie, exactly where did the hub fail? I took mine apart yesterday, they pressed apart very easily (with a hyd. press). The actual flange that the studs press into seems a little on the light side, but otherwise it's hard to imagine that the hub would break, especially with the stub axle bolted through the hub - properly.

Jon

PS - Any news on the big August race at Race City?

I'm curious as well as to where these hubs break? As far as the Aug race it is almost finalized....looks like it's gonna be a big one. We are combining the big Vintage on the Praries race weekend with the Canadian GT championship race weekend. Probably gonna be upwards of 80-100 cars. Lots of track time. Friday is slated for test-n-tune during the day, Saturday will have 3or 4 sprints followed by the $10000 1 hour GT race (including IT cars!) and Sunday is slated for a few sprints followed by a 2 hour WCMA points race. It is so far promising to be quite the event. There is also probably going to be a barbeque at the track Saturday following the GT race. See how many guys from down east you can get to come out for it. Damon Hill is usually at this race weekend, haven't heard if he's coming this year yet.

Are hub failures for real? Yes. Mine broke right where the stud flange meets the bearing tube. I had the stock hub, freshly greased and inspected. I found myself on the outside of the carousel at Mid Ohio. Fortunately the nut kept the wheel attached to the car. I have also seen worse hub failures at IRP where the wheel parted from the car.
I now run hardened hubs. and plan on replacing bearings yearly.

good luck

Hi Duncan;

Just for our (my!) education, can you provide a little more detail on the failure?

Can you "blame" the hub failure on anthing other than a weak hub? Maybe a yes/no response to the following specific questions would help:

Did the hub (prior to the failure) ever endure running with a bad bearing, ie were the bearings bad before they were replaced, insoected, or regreased?

How much torque did you use to tighten the axle nuts?

Did anyone ever attack the hub, nut, or any other part of the assembly with a torch in order to disassemble it?

Were non-factory replacement studs pressed into the hub?

Were you running wheel spacers? Or non-hubcentric wheels?

Was the hub tested, or inspected? I'm thinking of having mine magnafluxed.

If the hub broke at the flange, how did the nut keep the wheel from coming off?

Sorry for all the questions, but it would be good for for peice of mind to know the actual mode of failure, in order to properly prevent it.

Thanks again and in anticipation of your reply,

Jon Nelson

I had a similiar failure comming out of 2 at Lime Rock, (unfortunatly right into somebody's door). The hub shears off at the back side of the hub. The wheel bearing and wheel assembly were not to blame, and the 14x7 wheel was a panasport with stock lugs. If you look at a stock new part, there isn't much meat, I think just a poor design. I too now use hardened hubs, a littl pricy, but cheaper than body panels (and annoyed competitors)

I take it everyone is using the hardened hubs from OPM?

The picture at their website shows that they come with wheelbearings. Is this a fact?

If so, maybe they're not such a bad deal (especially compared to body work... or aluminum jacks)

Jon

Sorry Jon, they don't come with the bearings. I called and asked them that before. They really need to change that picture.


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Brent Breon
Cendiv ITA #26
www.360racing.com

Jon

Sorry for the late response.

The bearings that were still attached to the hub were in good shape...still greased and tight.

I think the book called for 140 ft.lbs. and yes it was torked.

No torches or heat on the hub.

No spacers... using stock rims

The only thing holding the wheel on was the brake caliper and the nut was still on the shaft. Very lucky I guess.

the hub was not tested prior. It was the stock 100k Hub.

Everyone I have talked to uses the Hardened hub.

Good Luck

Another hub/bearing question. How do you guys take out the front bearings? My friend with a press said he tried and couldnt get the knuckle to stay still. So he ended up taking it to the dealer. Do you guys recommend I do the same?

It's kinda tricky, but I ended up using four 2" square peices of tubing (two stacks of two) layed crossways on the press. The knuckle has a flat that lines up with the caliper mounting surface, these rest on the square tubing, and it is very stable.

Jon