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So now that we have to add this 2nd door bar I'm pretty sure the way to do it is to make it intrude into the door and gut the doors (we can do both now right?). So when you gut a door, do you make it so that you can put back the window glass back for hauling? Is there a way to do that?
And... anyone know of a place you trust for adding this new bar around the Minneapolis area?
I can't help on a shop near Minn. We've got the NASCAR style bars on the driver's side, and are thinking about doing it on the passenger side, too. My thought about weather proofing after gutting the doors has been to make a blank out of marine plywood and weather stripping that we can put in while the car isn't being driven. Haven't done it yet, but have been thinking about it. :D
Remember this applies for 2007 based on the GCR. Not that it would be a bad thing to do now though.Quote:
So now that we have to add this 2nd door bar
I think I am going to use cheap acrylic (storm window glazing) rather than sheet metal otherwise i just know i will try to move the car without taking out the metal panel and run over something.
That's what I do. Remove the door gizards and trim the glass channels to clear the bars (and your elbow...) Then, drive bolts or similar through the track (covered with a piece of fuel/oil tubing) then you can insert the glass and rest it on those bolts for transport. Same goes if you decide to use Lexan or plastic.Quote:
Originally posted by benracin@Jan 3 2006, 11:41 AM
...do you make it so that you can put back the window glass back for hauling?[snapback]69924[/snapback]
Or, buy an enclosed trailer and the problem goes away...
Consider 1/8" lexan instead of acrylic, Dick. I made my first one out of that stuff and it cracked out in less than one season. I had an open trailer then, so it was important. It mounts on little tabs welded to the door with dzus fasteners.
The lexan replacement I made is going on four years now. It's scratched up, but no cracks.
Besides hauling, they're good for closing the car up in the rain.
Call me dumb, you won't be the first, but I didn't know about the 2007 part. Guess I've been to busy working on the house. So the car is good to race this year with it's current single bar set up huh. Sweet.
Required 01/01/07; permitted as of 10/01/05.
Single bars each side are still legal.
So I can see how you keep the window in the door. What's keep the top of the window from just flying out? Are your bottom mounts able to slide the window up a bit so it's snug in the frame?
Is that directed to me, Ben? My car is a coupe; the front of the door glass is secured in a channel that rides up the "vent glass" and the top and aft side is secured into a channel in the roof/door rubber seal. - GA
Ben, on my 7 I gutted the door, but left the rubber and fuzzy stuff in the window frame, and a bit of the channels below. I slide the window glass up and hold it up with a metal strap for transport. When I finally break the glass I will either use a spare, or cut some plastic.
Can somebody post on what can and can not be gutted on the doors. I already have double bars on both sides, and the drivers side bars protrude into the door so it has been gutted.
The passenger side bars are straight. Can I still gut the door??? It's taken off, primed, sitting next to a plasma cutter. Won't get any easier than this.
Steve
As I understand the rule you cannot gut the door unless the bars extend into the door cavity.Quote:
Originally posted by Newbie@Jan 4 2006, 03:34 PM
Can somebody post on what can and can not be gutted on the doors. I already have double bars on both sides, and the drivers side bars protrude into the door so it has been gutted.
The passenger side bars are straight. Can I still gut the door??? It's taken off, primed, sitting next to a plasma cutter. Won't get any easier than this.
Steve
[snapback]70020[/snapback]
R
Steve, to protect yourself you need to review the log book personally. We may say "go ahead and take everything out" but that really won't matter when you get protested if it were illegal. Oh, but these guys on it.com said it was legal. ;)
Now that the GCR is online, it is very easy to check.Not being a jerk here rather helping you out...Quote:
And someone correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as the 1st gen 7's go I think you can gut most of the door but you have to leave that big heavy metal half i-beam thing alone. It's attached to the outside door skin. I would love to be wrong on this one though. It looks like it weighs a lot.
7. Side Protection:
Effective 1/1/07 and permissible 10/1/05 two (2) side tubes
connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings
are mandatory. Door side tubes may extend into the door.
NASCAR-style side protection is permitted. The door window
glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel,
armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating
mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel
may be modified, but not removed to facilitate this type of
side protection. The stock side impact beam and the outside
door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or
modified.
I have nascar bars on my drivers side and keep the stock window glass. Gut the window mechanism but leave the window tracks. Gut the whole interior of the door. When you remove the window stuff there is a hole in the bottom of the window with a plastic bushing, find a screw that fits into it. You can slide the window into place in the tracks with the the door open and drill a small hole in the reinforcement near the top of the door across from the screw. Then turn the screw in and it will hold the window up and you can close the door. When you get to the race just open the door, loosen the screw and remove the window to race. This has worked for me with my 2nd gen fro many years. Keeps it watertight and looks factory.
It's hard to see but the glass is in the door and you can see that my door bars are quite large.
I gutted the door, added a second bar that intrudes into the door and two verticals tying the exisiting horizontal bar to the new bar. By doing this and removing the glass, electric window regulator, sound proofing and the aluminum skin I saved 16#. Definately the way to go ASAP.
I have to give credit to the Flatout guys for this (having bought their car) but a very simple but not obvious sloution to hold the stock window in place for transport is as follows:
After sliding the window up in its track (like someone else said leave the 'fuzzy' stuff in the track at the top) take a block of wood (I'll get some measurements when I get the snow off the car) and it will slide perfectly on the top of the side impact beam and support the bottom of the glass. The gap between the side impact beam and the bottom of the glass is larger at the front and you simply start the block of wood there and pull it toward the rear and it tightens it as much as you like. It takes only a second and requires no tools. Ihave trailer the car for 1000s of miles and it has never come loose.