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For all the guys that have been running this class, where should I start? I got a good deal on a R/T ($800), but it's been a street car all its life. So I'll be starting from scratch here. Any tips on parts I should be getting, and parts to stay away from? There is a guy here localy that builds SCCA cars, but I would like some help from people that have been racing them. Thanks alot.
Joe,
A suggestion I would make would be not to use an R/T. The DOHC car is spec'd at 2650, that is 200 lbs heavier than the SOHC. I would suggest finding an old ACR SOHC SSC car to begin with. You will then not have to worry about the cage other than updating it to current rules. Have you read the rules for IT. You mentioned in another post that you have been building tuner Neons. Keep in mind there is a specific ruleset that you must build to. That means no short throw shifters, or ported cylinder heads.
You start with the usual Neon stuff; Iceman intake, header, Mopar PCM ( The 95 is the only true IT Cal ), Quaife, ect.
You will want to get some camber plates, and some good struts. If you start with an ACR however, you can get started racing without spending big bucks on struts and springs.
Those of us running the cars in ITA are still developing them, so new things are learned all the time.
Welcome to Club Racing! :D
Joe... where are you located???
I'm in Southern Maryland.Quote:
Joe... where are you located???
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As far as the DOHC, is there no way I could run a SOHC with the R/T instead? I mean, are the tech guys going to run my VIN # to make sure that it is what I say it is? Now, if I could find a car already built for about 2 grand and be able to make payments that would be great, but I dont think I'll have that kind of luck. I'd get a loan, but my latest purchase of the '06 Charger is kinda hurting me right now.
Like I said before, I'm geting this R/T for $800, with a $h!t load of after market parts and I will be selling then to get money for other parts for the car.
Thanks for all the help so far.
I don't want to discourage you. If I were you I would start re-thinking this? If $2000 is too much to spend on a race car then you have many surprises coming. Even a cheap, not good for much roll cage is going to cost you around $800-$1000. Struts and Camber plates are about $1000 a corner! The Quaife is $1500!Quote:
I'm in Southern Maryland.
As far as the DOHC, is there no way I could run a SOHC with the R/T instead? I mean, are the tech guys going to run my VIN # to make sure that it is what I say it is? Now, if I could find a car already built for about 2 grand and be able to make payments that would be great, but I dont think I'll have that kind of luck. I'd get a loan, but my latest purchase of the '06 Charger is kinda hurting me right now.
Like I said before, I'm geting this R/T for $800, with a $h!t load of after market parts and I will be selling then to get money for other parts for the car.
Thanks for all the help so far.
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Are you pick'n up what I am drop'n?
The more of a complete car you can get the better. It is always less expensive to buy than to build. Race cars and race car parts are $.50 on the dollar used.
As far as running a SOHC in a DOHC chassis, that is not legal.
I know of a good car for sale in Leesburgh Va, but it will cost you more than $2000.
Joe,
the neon is a good base car, and there are plenty of replacement/performance parts available. you can look on this site and there are numerous accounts of building a racecar and how to go about it. pretty much they are all the same, you can put as much money or time as you have available.
at first i wouldnt get too caught up in go fast goodies, get yourself on the track. but before you do that make sure the car is safe. get yourself a copy of the GCR to start with by downloading it from SCCA website, that will help with all the safety requirements that you will need for the car (cage, fire suppression, suit and helmet, etc...). it will also help you with any performance modifications that you might look at down the road, but may not be legal for what ever class you are going to run in. each person is going to be different in how they approach the car, but safety is first for me. spend money on these items and then get some seat time. dont expect to set the world on fire your first time out.
there are plenty of books out there to help you get started, one that i recently got for christmas was "go ahead-take the wheel". excellent book that covers a lot of the newbie type information that is needed to get started. this website has volumes of information related to racing, some good, some bad. but ask questions and do some searches within this website and i bet your question has been asked somewhere else before.
racing on a budget is not easy, but it can be done. you probably wont be a front runner right out of the box, but who cares, at least your racing. the great thing about IT racing is that generally i find someone on the track that i can race with even though they may not be in my class.
I know the cage is going to be the most expensive part to buy for the car. In the long run it would be cheaper to buy a car thats already built, but right now, I dont have that kind of money. I do have enough to buy this R/T though. If anything, I could run autocross for a year, just to get some seat time and not have to worry about a cage and other aftermarket parts. I can just race. Then maybe next year, I'll be ready for the big boys and race with you guys!
I never get discourage, I just adjust my goals to fit my needs at the moment. Pefect example, my '02 R/T, I've got a total of $50K in this car. I've been taking my time over the last 3 years to build it right and make sure everything flows. Granted, I'm still not finished yet, but atleast she runs! I've pushed back the finish date so many times just because something wasnt right or I wanted to do something differnt. You would think that someone would get discouraged after blowing up his brand new car and not be able to drive it for 3 years and still have to make payments on it. I just alway look at the bright side of things i guess.
Joe whats your last name, I'm going to put you on my crew list for a upcoming race at Vir in March.
The "cat killer" and I will be running two different classes of neons in some sprint races and two
enduros. One weekend at the track with us and you will have a new perspective of whats going on.
At the moment keep your $800.00 in the bank. Oh and what kind of beer to you drink, you spent
50 GRAND on a neon.
I also know a neon for sale in Leesburg, Va
Kolin
that 50K has got to be a typo....
Nope, 2k2 Dodge Neon R/T plus mods=$50,000.00.Quote:
that 50K has got to be a typo....
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Here is an uncomplete list of mods and parts:
UNDER THE HOOD
* Balanced and Blue Printed Block
* 8.5:1 JE Forged Turbo Pistons
* Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods
* Knife Edged Crankshaft
* Crane #14 Turbo Cam
* Crane Valve Spings
* Crane Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
* Indy 1mm Oversized Valves
* Cometic High Boost Head Gasket
* ARP Head Studs
* ARP Main Studs
* AEM Cam Gear-Silver
* AFX Underdrive Pulley
* Moroso 6.5qt Oil Pan
* Dodge Viper Oil Filter!
* Extrude Honed Head
* Extrude Honed Intake Manifold w/Mattdog 60mm adapter
* MPx 60mm Throttle Body-Silver
* HahnRaceCraft Port Fueler w/40lb Accel Injectors (used under boost, works along w/21lb injectors)
* 21lb Accel Performance Injectors (used under normal driving)
* Aeromotive 1:1 Fuel Pressure Regulator-Red/Silver
* Chillfactory Super 16g Turbo, manifold, and downpipe
* AGP SRT-4 BIG FMIC
* Tial 50mm BOV-Red
* Koyo SRT-4 Aluminum Radiator
* Deymee Ultra Firm Motor Mounts
* MP Motor Mount Bolt Kit
* Powder Coated Valve Cover-Wrinkle Red
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber Fuse Box Cover
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber Radiator Shroud
* 2.5" Custom Side Exit Exhaust w/High Flow cat (not for long)
* Crane Ignition w/Trigger
* Crane TC-2 Timeing Retard
* Crane MAP Sensor
* Crane 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires
* NX N-ercooler Nitous Kit
* Walborw 255lb Fuel Pump
* Battery Relocation Kit
* Custom Mounting Tray For Crane Ignition, Crane Trigger and HRC ECU (where the battery used to be)
* Mopar Moblie 1 Oil Cap
* Custom Innercooler pipeing
* Spoolboy Fuel Mod
* NGK Spark Plugs
* Lorenzo Fuel Rail
* Ear's Oil Cooler Kit
* Deleted A/C Unit
* Deleted Cruise Control
Transmission
* Phantom Grip LSD
* Fidanza Aluminium Flywheel
* Spec Stage 3f Clutch
* Driveshaft Shop Stage 3 Axels
* Deymee Ultra Firm Trans Mount
* Booger Bushings-Black
* MadDog 80% STS w/rod brake
Suspension
* Hotchkis SRT-4 Sway Bar Kit
* Tokico SRT-4 5-Way Adj. Struts
* Eibach Springs Pro Kit
* Mopar Rear Control Arms
* Mopar Rear Tension Strut Kit
* AFX Front Strut Bar
* PWerks 3pt Rear Strut Bar
* Energy Suspension Bushing Kit
* 5zigen FN01R-C, 17x8, 35mm offset
* 225/45/17 Falken Azenis Rt615
Brakes
* PT Cruiser Front Knucles
* PT Cruiser Front Calipers painted red
* PT Cruiser Front Rotors
* PT Cruiser SS Brake Lines
* Hawk HPS Brake Pads Front/Rear
Exterior
* Kaminari Turbo Body Kit (2K3 front, 2K2 sides and rear)
* VIS Carbon Fiber Invader Hood
* VIS Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid
* C-West Carbon Fiber Fenders
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber B-Pillers
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber C-Pillers
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber Eye-Lids
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber Vortex Generator
* CarbonByDesign Carbon Fiber PVO Spoiler
* Custom Carbon Fiber Gas Door
* German OEM Export Tail Lights
* TCS GT Carbon Fiber Mirrors
* '03 Black Euro Head Lights
* '03 Stock Fog Lights
Interior
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber Tach w/Shift Lite w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber 30psi Boost/Vacume Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber Fuel Pressure Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber Oil Pressure Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber EGT Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AutoMeter Carbon Fiber Volt Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* AEM UGEO Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge w/Carbon Fiber Cup
* Apex'i Turbo Timer
* Sparco Carbon Fiber Foot Pedels
* SRT-4 Shift Knob
* CarbonByDesign carbon fiber HVAC cover
* Carbon Fiber Center Console Door
* Corbeau Legacy Black Suede Racing Seats
* Greddy Boost Controller
Sterio
* Clarion Head Unit
* Rockford 6.5"
* Rockford 6"x9"
Now for Pics:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m.../newstuff6.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n11-14-069.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n11-14-068.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n11-14-067.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n11-14-066.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n11-14-065.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...eon/120506.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...on/1205067.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...on/1205068.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...n/12050612.jpg
Ehnes would be the last name, DOS XX or Blue Moon is the beer I drink and I would love to be apart of your pit crew!Quote:
Joe whats your last name, I'm going to put you on my crew list for a upcoming race at Vir in March.
The "cat killer" and I will be running two different classes of neons in some sprint races and two
enduros. One weekend at the track with us and you will have a new perspective of whats going on.
At the moment keep your $800.00 in the bank. Oh and what kind of beer to you drink, you spent
50 GRAND on a neon.
I also know a neon for sale in Leesburg, Va
Kolin
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Would also like more info about the car in Leesburg, Va.
Joe,
Being from a street rod car back ground myself, I can tell you, just sell the $50,000 Neon and come road racing! I have had and still have many cars like yours. When I started doing open track days and then started racing they all just sat collecting dust. Want a 1961 Ford Sunlinner?
Would love to have you come out a crew and see what it is all about before you go spending too much on the wrong things. There is a class in NASA called Spec Neon that is much less expensive than a fully developed ITA car.
Hello,
I don't think the DOHC will be that bad off. I am running a 98 DOHC coupe ACR with mild IT prep so far. I battle with some low end ITA cars and high end ITB's so I have fun. I think the DOHC has the potential to match the SOHC's no problem. That extra 200 lbs or whatever can just go into more features to make the car ultimately faster.
Plus I would like to have another DOHC guy out there to compare notes with. :D
Welcome, remember to have fun.
Focus on the Legality stuff first. That means spend money on what will get you on track the soonest so you can get some seat time. This can be expensive, custom cage minimum of $2k, seat, suit, ballast, cutoff switch, race tires, etc. Depending on what you have already, your luck finding used stuff, or deals; you can get this done for as little as $3-5k. This can also get up to easily $10 000 plus with stripping the car down to bare metal. Then building up from a bare sheet metal shell, optimized custom cage, top of the line safety gear, etc.
Then to get faster I would recommend that you just start with bolt ons:
TTi long tube Header with race exhaust
Custom fabricate some kind of intake.
Pick up a Mopar performance computer used.
Quaiffe equiped trans.
Mopar performance rear sway bar.
The DOHC can make some good high end power once we unlock the secrets.
I think our biggest area of deficiency is in the damper selection. I think we have only one or two off the shelf options with all the rest being custom built.
In IT you must use the stock intake manifold. Nothing downstream of/and including the throttle body may be modified or substituted.Quote:
Custom fabricate some kind of intake.
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One thing often overlooked about the Quaife is even the "tractionless" wheel needs token traction to get the transfer. A wheel in the air lacks even that. The clutch type LSD doesn't have this issue. Torsen is like Quaife, and they say ""without significant preload either torsen diff will not work well with a wheel completely off the ground."
If your car uses a QDF31 you might check into the use of a Kaaz DBM2010
No way am I going to sell what I've been working on for the past 3 years! She is my baby! :D
I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do yet. I really want to start racing soon, but it seems that I may need to re-think a few things first! Thanks for all the help everyone!