Hauling with an RV

Im thinking of selling my pickup and enjoying the comfort of an RV for racing. Can anyone discuss their their experiences with RV's for towing? I've been looking at 92-94 C class, most have Ford 460 or GM 454 motors. Given the fact the thing is hauling a house, doesn't it kill the engine and drivetrain with an additional 22 enclosed trailer behind???

My fiance's grandmother has a very nice Class C with a Ford 460. She's offered it to pull my racecar on my open trailer; I've declined to this point.

The reason? Look under the rear of the home, at the receiver hitch that is "mounted" to the RV. My bet is that, unless someone has modified it post-manufacture, it's just bolted to the floor/rear of the RV, with nothing tying it to the frame - unless it's a pretty short RV.

In other words, plan on some work to tie to the actual truck frame of the RV before you pull. It'll probably work fine until that big OH S**T panic stop.

Engine/drivetrain issues? A big enclosed might have an impact, but you are knocking a hole in the wind already for the trailer with the rest of the house....stability in cross wind would be what I'd worry about with a sail that big. Overhang behind the rear wheels becomes an important consideration at this point.

Jarrod

Quote:

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Originally posted by RR:
Given the fact the thing is hauling a house, doesn't it kill the engine and drivetrain with an additional 22 enclosed trailer behind???

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It certainly can if you don't size the MH chassis correctly for the towing job. As an additional resource to this site, you might want to pay a visit to this rv forum and post a question in the class "c" section. Tell them what you will be towing, weight, size, frequency of towing etc. and ask for a recommendation for a used class c that will do the the job.
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/CFB/1.cfm

As an additional note. Most of the tracks I go to have Friday and Saturday night drags during the SCCA weekend. Many of the track campers are finding the atmosphere less then relaxing, with screaming drag racers going until 1 AM.

Wayne

I've towed for several years with a 23' class C w/460 ('92 Fleetwood Jamboree Special). Never a problem with the drivetrain. The "problem" is with the amount of overhang behind the rear axle and the manner in which your hitch is attached.

I've never towed more than 4500# behind my motorhome. Almost always right around 4000. I just purchased an enclosed (16') for the FF, with car and spares that will put me right back in the 4000# range.

If I were towing something around 6-7K, I would take a strong look at the Class A's. They depreciate much more rapidly (which is good when you are buying). Just make certain that you stick with a brand that has been around and will be around for awhile. Such as Fleetwood or Winnebago. Their chassis are stronger (generally) and their wheelbase is longer, giving less weight beyond the rear axle.

If you really want the class C (great parts availablility) make certain that your hitch is tied into the van frame, get a load distributing hitch and a good brake controller.

The class C motorhome is just like a 1 ton van/dually. Problem: it's already "towing" another 5000-6000 before you put anything behind it, and then the hitch is another 3-4' behind the rear bumper.

I tow a 24' enclosed with a 76 Dodge Class C with a 360 and a 727 trans. I was worried about all that extra tonage behind the rv also. I have never had a problem...it will only do 55 going up some steep hills but other then that it's ok. I had the hitch custom made for reasons already stated. They are super nice and once you get one you will wonder why you waited so long. Some older motorhomes are a real good deal...most have low miles, the only thing that mine needed was the "womans touch". Windy conditions are intresting..I put a good anti-sway hitch and air bags on the motorhome it was lots better.

Ihave been towing my 24' enclosed trailer with a motorhome since '94. I started with a 27' Tioga class C until 2001 with no problems. I did reinforce the hitch to accomodate the weight. The weight distributing hitch is a must. The port injected 460 is, in my opinion the best gas engine for towing on the market, and this is from a GM family. If you are interested, the GM engineers shared the method to reinforce the Fleetwood chassis, which I would be happy to share.

As of 2001, I am towing with a 35' Fleetwood class A with the Triton V-10 and have not had any problems there either. The V-10 doesn't have quite the grunt of the 460 and the mileage isn't near as good, but it is comfy......

I wouldn't consider not having the RV for the track. There's something about being there that is just good....

Have fun!!

db

I used to own an old Class C. I highly recommend looking for a Class A for a couple of reasons. First, the C motorhomes are already pretty much stretching the limits of the chassis, so adding a big trailer behind it can be problematic. Secondly, Class A motorhomes usually have a separate bedroom, while most C's don't. It doesn't sound like a big deal, but just to move around in the morning required putting away all the bedding and converting the bed back into seating.

I recommend that you rent a few of them before making a purchase. You'll learn a lot about living with an RV.

I've owned 4 RVs

'72 Class C on Chevy chassis 26' (454 carb) 6mpg
'85 Class C on Ford chassis 26' (460 carb) 8mpg
'90 Class C on Ford chassis 27' (460 FI) 10mpg
'98 Class A on Ford chassis 31' (460 FI) 7mpg

The first two did not haul a race cat but they did haul a 17' ski boat, very similar to an open trailer and my ITA Rx7. I've never had a problem hauling something, just keep it around 60mph. All of the hitches have been attached to the frame, on the class C's it was U channel that was welded onto the frame to extend it.

Over hang is a big thing but my current 31' class A, and my dad's 33' class A both have the same amount, which is very similar to what my class C's had about 11'. Shorter rigs get shorter wheel bases, in general.

My 27' Class C had a GVW of 12500 while my class A is 17500, and shipped from the factory @ 14500.

As far as a bed on the main floor, I believe you will have to go to at least 25', anything smaller and there just isn't enough room.

You should definatly look under the chassis and in all the outside cupboards, some RV's with low miles have sat in campgrounds on dirt and are pretty bad below.

You can also check NADA website, they have used RV pricing and also indicate the number of years the company has been in buisness. Like stated before, I would stick to some name brand RV's (Coachmen, Fleetwood, Jayco, Four Winds, Bounder, Gulf Stream, Southwind, Flair).

Class C is definatly more like driving a full sized van. Most class A's however are on a true truck chassis and have leaf springs on all 4 corners, this helps alot when being passed by semi's. Parts availability is probably better on a class C, but for changing plugs and what not the class A has way more room.

At the track there is nothing like comming off the track and jumping into the motorhome to change and sponge off in air conditioning. Beside watching the race video greatly enhances the bench racing.

I've had an RV for 13 years, been racing for 2. I couldn't see living without one. But then again it is also used for family vacations. My youngest son (10yrs old) has been in all but 7 states. Pacific NW here we come!

Hauling with an RV.

First of all, I have had both a gas and a diesel (my current RV is a 38' Monaco Diplomat).

Pulling a trailer with the gas coach was a strain. Not enough weight in the rear end made towing "dicey" to say the least plus the fuel economy sucked. So I went to a 325 hp Cummins Diesel. Mileage runs about 9 mpg. No wandering problem on the road, Bus is stable at 75 mph. And you can't even feel the trailer back there. (back up camera helps to know if it's still attached)

But, the cost of the bus is high, maintenance is low but the monthly payments are big. If you invest like I did, you need to look at it as an investment and use it not only as a tow vehicle but as a way for you to go on vacations with it.

Can get a 20 year loan on the big units and with a slideout or 2, you will be much happier in the long run.

Most tracks don't offer 50 amp service but you can run 2 20 amp services into a splitter box and power up the coach without any problem or just run on the generator.

you can call me if you want to and we can talk this over more.

813-927-9011

Mike Cox
IT7 # 37
Central Florida Region


[This message has been edited by Mike Cox (edited September 30, 2003).]