What to do for midyear maintenance

I’ve been running the ITA CRX SI at local autocross events so I can get up to speed on driving FWDs figuring out tire press and fuel consumption.


Things are going pretty good I figure since my co driver and I are climbing the results ladder.

So the car is off the trailer and I need to make a list of things to check and repair

After several missed shifts the shifter linkage is the only major thing on the list

What would guys/gals recommend I look at while the car is up on jack stands?


The Koni shocks are a big mystery, do these things have clicks? Looks like the fronts where set on full stiff

I disconnected the front sway bar and started turning the knob counter clockwise (I was very surprised at the max clockwise setting they were at)

The car is a little easier to drive but it did not improve the times just kept me from spinning so much; also the total roll angle went up a little

Any suggestions


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...CRX/itacrx.jpg



Davegt27

The shocks shouldn't change the total lean or steady-state balance (over- vs. understeer) but disconnecting the bar would do both. Shocks control the balance in transitions - as the suspension is moving from bump to droop. KONIs don't have clicks. You have to keep track of where the adjuster is in terms of turns from full stiff or full soft. They make a plastic knob that makes the job easier but they always seem to wander off out of toolboxes.

There are probably Honda-specific things that others can recommend you check but it's good practice to actually torque any bolt that holds on something you care about (e.g., subframe, suspension arms, etc.) If you haven't had it apart, I'd recommend you break them loose, lubricate them and then run them to the factory spec.

Check the CV boots for leakage and look for any dampness anywhere oil or fluids should be kept inside of something - pan gasket, hoses, etc. If any bushing is loose enough that you can actually feel play, it needs attention. Check brake lines.

I've seen two Hondae fail the nut (I think it's castleated?) that at the bottom of the front hub. It wasn't good in either situation so check with someone smarter than me and do whatever is required.

It sounds like this car is fairly new to you so it might be that the FIRST thing it needs is a really good cleaning. It's very hard to spot leaks and (surprisingly, maybe) we are less likely to do a good job with inspection and service on something crappy that's dropping junk in your eyes when you put your hands up in there. You might need to start there.

K

I had read that disconnecting the front bar on a CRX would help a noob driver so I disconnected the front bar.

That made the car less tail happy but did not make the car faster; it did keep me from spinning so much

Now the front bar being disconnected caused the front to hop around some turns which lead to a front shock adj

The car went from hopping around corners to pogoing pretty quick

(I was surprised to find the shocks had been maxed out)

1) Fix shift linkage
2) Cleaning
3) AFP regulator
4) Find out why it’s running rich
5) Re-torque major bolts
6) ??

David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

I had read that disconnecting the front bar on a CRX would help a noob driver so I disconnected the front bar.

That made the car less tail happy but did not make the car faster; it did keep me from spinning so much

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I don't know squat about FWD, but that runs contrary to everything I think I know about suspension design. :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eagle7

I don't know squat about FWD, but that runs contrary to everything I think I know about suspension design.

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No its spot on with all the common suspension thought

The anti-roll bar is used to limit roll so if you take it off it will roll like an old Chevy

This rolling takes time (or it takes time to take a set) so the effect is good for a beginner.

On my RWD Opel we would never in a million years take off the front bar but if I put in the small stock bar I would get like 3 degrees of body roll and the car would be slow

I am doing the same thing with the Honda until I learn how to drive again.

Yeah kind of screwy but it is working knocked off 4 seconds since I started.

you have to sort of tip toe around with the FWD, the left front tire has 700lbs static load on the tire so it does not take too much before you over load the tires

The rules makers’ blindly adding weight to these small cars is not a wise move

davegt27

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

The rules makers’ blindly adding weight to these small cars is not a wise move

davegt27

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?????

Do you mean the weight that was added years and years ago (5? 7?) and then the CRX went out and still won every big race in ITA in this country??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

I had read that disconnecting the front bar on a CRX would help a noob driver so I disconnected the front bar.

That made the car less tail happy but did not make the car faster; it did keep me from spinning so much

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eagle7

I don't know squat about FWD, but that runs contrary to everything I think I know about suspension design. :shrug:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

No its spot on with all the common suspension thought

The anti-roll bar is used to limit roll so if you take it off it will roll like an old Chevy

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Yes, it will certainly roll more. I was referring to it being LESS tail-happy. Seems to me that removing the front bar would make it MORE tail-happy. Glad it's working for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JLawton

?????

Do you mean the weight that was added years and years ago (5? 7?) and then the CRX went out and still won every big race in ITA in this country??

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Shut up and Drive!!!

ok got it

davegt27

1) Fix shift linkage
2) Cleaning
3) AFP regulator
4) Find out why it’s running rich
5) Re-torque major bolts
6) replace the lower ball joints
7) Replace the outer tie rods
8) R&R master Cyl and booster
9) Add poly bushings

Davegt27

Kinda of a hammer over here also eh?:023:

yeah but no pot shots like-- fix the roll cage or you going to drive around cones


David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

1) Fix shift linkage

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

2) Cleaning
3) AFP regulator
4) Find out why it’s running rich
5) Re-torque major bolts
6) Replace the lower ball joints
7) Replace the outer tie rods
8) R&R master Cyl and booster
9) Add poly bushings

Davegt27

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Ok what I’ve learned/done

1) Shifter linkage
www.energysuspensionparts.com is not the same company as energy suspension

The shifter stabilizer bushings 16.1102 http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E1102
Has nothing to do with the shifter it’s for the torque rod. I am still not sure what to do about the shifter play

When I went to replace the lower ball joints found that the passenger side wheel bearing had some play in it so it is getting changed.

My inner brake pad on the passenger side is shot so the rotors are getting turned and new pads will be installed.

The car also had original rubber bushings so the lower stuff is getting updated the passenger side lower shock bushing is tore up so it’s a good thing I did this tear down.

Regards
Davegt74

Its a Honda...just run it!!!

Nothing wrong with making things better then how you received them

Someone might do a search in the future so it might help

David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davegt74

My inner brake pad on the passenger side is shot so the rotors are getting turned and new pads will be installed.

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Check to make sure your caliper isn't sticking. Make sure the piston is moving and lube up the slides.

I ended up getting two new front Calipers

I dug a little further and found some of the slider rubber boots tore and the rubber seal that goes around the piston tore up.

Funny thing the calipers don’t look that old

Wonder if heat caused the rubber to burn up faster?


davegt74