.040 pistons, worthwhile power increse?

hey all, I was wondering if .040 over pistons (oe cr, of course), add any power to the 85-87 si ew engine?

I ask this, because I just popped my tired old engine this weekend. I may have access to a good running engine that is stock, which I can do a ring and bearing job on and get back in the game sooner.

If I have to build an engine, it will take at least two months out of my racing this year, so should I get something put together quickly, or do a full build?

suggestions?

Thankfully it waited until the race qualifier after completing the double school.

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hey all, I was wondering if .040 over pistons (oe cr, of course), add any power to the 85-87 si ew engine?

I ask this, because I just popped my tired old engine this weekend. I may have access to a good running engine that is stock, which I can do a ring and bearing job on and get back in the game sooner.

If I have to build an engine, it will take at least two months out of my racing this year, so should I get something put together quickly, or do a full build?

suggestions?

Thankfully it waited until the race qualifier after completing the double school.
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Do both?
Run a stocker, and build up a spare. It matters, but if you are not already hanging out in the lead pack, then probably better to focus on driving and chassis setup instead of engine..
My .02.....

I've heard that several top Honda engine builders use .020 over pistons. In fact, that's what I'm using this year and the decision was not financially based.

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Do both?
Run a stocker, and build up a spare. It matters, but if you are not already hanging out in the lead pack, then probably better to focus on driving and chassis setup instead of engine..
My .02.....
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I agree. Since you're just starting out (I think, since you talked about the school), the best money you can spend in order to make your car faster is on entry fees. Get the car up and running again and put your butt in the seat. Then you can build up another engine as you have the time and money to do so.

There is no substutute for cubic inches;

It works, but you probably will have a hard time measuring the difference between good .020 and .040 rebuilds.

my recommendations in order for the first gen CRX car:

1. Seat Time
2. Seat Time
3. Seat Time
4. New Tires to replace what you used above.
5. Seat Time
6. Rear Sway bar
7. Seat Time
8. Limited Slip and 4.93 final drive
9. Seat Time
10.Seat Time

if you are now consistently in the trophies and within 1 or 2 seconds of the class track records, then consider the 0.040 over when you freshen your motor, etc.

this is a momentum car anyways. better handling and more confidence (such as http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=...6b7db252bb54f4) will make the biggest difference. i would even consider a data logger before the bigger pistons.

Seriously!

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i would even consider a data logger before the bigger pistons.

Seriously! [/b]

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No doubt.

Don't forget seat time. :blink:

Hmmm... Andy's avatar looks like he may have added an aero package to the Miata. :018:

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Don't forget seat time. :blink:

Hmmm... Andy's avatar looks like he may have added an aero package to the Miata. :018: [/b]

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It's just the paint makes it look different...that and it now sounds like it has a 3-rotor. Pay you no mind... :P

I have a spare parts engine that has a clean enough bore to just re-ring it. I shall do that.

I could still start it and limp it enough to get it onto the trailer after the race, at that point, the oil filter grenaded. :o probably not much for useful parts left in that one :D

dont worry, Ill be back, and soon.

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my recommendations in order for the first gen CRX car:

1. Seat Time
2. Seat Time
3. Seat Time
4. New Tires to replace what you used above.
5. Seat Time
6. Rear Sway bar
7. Seat Time
8. Limited Slip and 4.93 final drive
9. Seat Time
10.Seat Time

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Tom is right. I agree with all 10 of these points. I popped a motor last year, and built a .040 over... cost is the same for a .020, gained a bit... still developing it.

Money is best spent on track time, tires, and a final drive. Unfortunatly, the final drive is the most expensive piece to this puzzle, keep your eye out for a deal. It's beter than having Housman make one for $1500!

best of luck!