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I want to remind any of you Neon racers to check the clutch bolts that attach the flywheel to the flex plate. I had the second failure this last weekend at Sebring. This time it broke the trans in half, throwing flames 50 ft from behind the car. I will post pics later when I get some time take pictures of what is left. The last time this happened I ending up ruining an engine.
Chris - saw the incident and can only offer my condolences - you put on quite a show for a few seconds!
good luck on the rebuild.
Chris,
Just a couple of questions, were the bolts:
1) new or old
2) factory or aftermarket (grade?)
3) torqued
4) thread-locked
5) were you using old style modular or H.D. style modular (turbo pt)
I'm not questioning what you did, just trying to find-out why it happened. I went thru 2 NEW traditional clutches in one weekend at Sebring before I found out the someone helping me get the car ready, zip-tied some wires the adjustable part of the clutch cable. I've since gone the modular (turbo pt) route with a new cable & new turbo bolts. Zero problems after 6-7 track hours at Sebring/Daytona. Please let us know what you find that may have caused the issue.
Chris,
It sounds like us IT Neon guys need a alternate (lightened) flywheel for safety reasons. :rolleyes:
Seriously though, sorry to hear about the problem. How long since you last torqued the bolts and do you use anything like threadlock or some other secondary retainer?
so the bolts back out? or actually break?
Chris,
I promise never to wish you luck on the grid again!
Looks like I brought you bad luck instead.
I left the track just after we sent out the split start for your group.
So,, I did not know of your incident til now.
There were surely some strange happenings on the track at this National,
I could not believe how many cars got torn up during double yellow periods !!
One time on Sunday I looked up towards the tower, and it did look like they were having an old fashioned "blue light special" on wrist slaps!
I do regret talking to you about Mark's clutch trouble, my wife calls it
"the rubber band theory" when stuff snaps back.
Have a safe trip back to the frozen north,
Carlos
I always use new Mopar fasteners with thread lock compound already on them. Then I tighten the crap out of them. The clutch is a stock neon modular from 96-. They seem to just work themselves loose. I only had about 200 miles on it since the install of the last engine.
First----------- Carlos, I thought that you were my friend?!?!?!?!?:happy204:
Second------- Chris, Over-tightening bolts can actually cause them to stretch & fail/loosen. I've seen it happen too many times. I'm a self-employed mechanic & a lot of the 'go-behind-them-&-fix-their-repair' is because of over-thightening. My torque wrench gets a work-out because I torque EVERY major part (lugs, flywheel, intake, etc). Infact, I carry 2 just-in-case. I'm in no-way a master mechanic. My step-father was the best mechanic I've known & never torqued anything except heads & bearring caps. But the smallest thing he worked on was a ford 302 with large or agazillion bolts holding everything. Not the 3 or 4 (can't remember) bolts & NO PINS that holds the flywheel on. I'm sure many will disagree with me. Can you tell if the bolt heads failed or did one or more loosen-up? Also, If you need to replace your clutch, look into the one from a turbo pt. That is the one that Mopar Performance recomends for racing/performance.
I am not saying this to brag, but I have been an ASE Master Certified tech for 15 years. I am well aware of how tight a bolt needs to be. It is very difficult to get anything, but a wrench in there to tighten these bolts. They seem to work loose on the track even after tightening them up? Look on SRTForums and Neons.org. There are people talking about it.
I believe that a fastener that is drilled for safety wire may be the only solution?
I'm not super familiar with the neon but if the bolts are loosening up even with threadlocker on them, then a safety wire loop would definately be in order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit07
The issue with drilling them is that they are a very low profile head and the bolt is very hard. I may have to have ARP make some. They have always been helpful in the past, so I hope something can be done. This last failure is going to be expensive to repair. There were parts all over the track
Check with some of your local machine shops or a tool and die shop. We use an EDM hole burner to make the safety wire hole. Quick and does not matter if they are grade 8 or harder. Just be sure to cut all your safety wire pieces the same length for balance.
I like the edm idea, I wouldn't have thought of that, thanks!
Scattershield????
Let us know what you come up with on the bolts... sounds like a good idea for a group buy ;)