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Here's a topic for the original poster.
If you replace the oil pellet deal behind the front pulley, then do it when the engine is out and on its back. (Front of the engine pointing straight up at the sky.)
I replaced one of those things while very closely following directions while it was still in the car and it got in there incorrectly and ate my engine eventually.
If you have the engine out, put the pellet in there by dropping it straight down. That way the bearing behind it doesn't slip and you're engine will continue to oil correctly.[/b]
Got it, engine's out, will act accordingly.
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Use an underdrive pulley. Actually two of them, for the main pulley and for the alternator.[/b]
Got 'em already
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From what I learned from talking to folks, you don't really need a turbo oil pump. You just need to shim the regulator. Which I did and it seems to work ok. Even with the extra factory oil cooler, which lessens the oil pressure. I would REALLY recommend a second factory oil cooler, btw. I just couldn't get my car to stay at reasonable temperatures without one. I also fitted a big electric fan so that it won't overheat when I come off the track and putt around the pits.[/b]
I actually have a very large Fluidyne oil-to-air cooler that will sit where the factory cooler goes. It is used by others here in SEDiv and seems to work well. The key seems to be placement in the airflow, and sealing up the nose via splitter and undertray (back to the rear edge of the front bumper, of course!)
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Also you can throw out all of the emission controls, but make sure that what's left doesn't leak and is in working order. Vacuum leaks are common on these things. Make sure all of the vacuum stubs are blocked off behind the manifold, too.
Get a real oil and water temperature gauge. The factory stuff is useless for keeping your engine alive.
You probably know most of this, but I figured I would post it just in case.
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Thanks Scooter.