right turn shuts off

my rabbit dies when i turn right and i have close to or bellow half a tank and if i leave it in gear starts again when vehicle finishes the turn,im thinking the problem is in the tank it only does it when i go right not left,any feedback would help

Classic problem of the pickup tube in A1 VW's. After all these years, the hose that connects the pickup to the fitting comming out of the tank has deteriorated thereby allowing air to get sucked in when the hose is not submerged in the fuel. Pretty much a PITA to fix.

I've heard of people sending tanks to radiator shops and getting them cut open and a new tube attached. JCWhitney used to sell tanks for Rabbits for ~$225, but I don't know if they have them any more. The other alternative is a fuel cell, but that's not a cheap option either. Figure at least $1000 by the time all is said and done.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

I have the same Problem!!! Is there a way to replace that little hose through the tank opening for the fuel gauge? Or do you have to pull the tank? It would be great to get rid of some of that weight. Any "hints" to solve this problem would be great, i need to do this before the NARRCC Runoffs in 2 weeks! Thanks, John

I had the same problem. To cure the problem you have four choices.1)Install a Fuel Cell with a surge tank(expensive). 2)Find a used tank(you will eventually have the same problem). 3)Try to find a new tank(also expensive-around $600 if VW still has one). 4) Install a second fuel filter inside a 1 quart canister. Then have a low pressure fuel pump pump gas from the tank to the second filter and have the Bosch fuel pump pump the gas to the engine. I chose #4 and has worked fine for me. I can run the tank almost dry with no problem.

The low pressure pump and surge tank solution is what all the Prod guys that run FI use. There's no easy way to fix the stock tank.

However, the surge tank option is not something you should just throw together. You can get what you need out of a Fox. To do a custom system w/ AN fittings and line, etc. is not cheap. But it is probably the safest way to go.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

thanks for the reply guys but i have another alternative,im currently looking for diesel rabbits in junkyards cause diesel fuel is less likely to corrode stuff,i cant believe i saw one i while back but i was unaware of the problem cause i was not driving the car,anyways when i see one in taking off the gas tank and inspecting

also i just saw the site discountgastanks.com and they have the tank for 129$

also i just saw the site discountgastanks.com and they have the tank for 129$

I had the same issues this past weekend. Since this was the first weekend we ran it, I hadn't gone through everything. The previous owner had the problem, but not being a v-dub guy, he didn't know what was wrong with it and couldn't describe what was happening. We ran like sh_ _ all weekend. Looks like the fuel system will be rebuilt complete on my car including a new tank all the way to the injectors.

Guys,the diesel tank will do the same thing,
as it appears to be different inside[no surge bucket],so the only real alternative is a good used or a new tank.
Lots of rabbit expierence on this one.

Hello, Digging up an old thread here, but I am having the same problem in my 83 ITB Rabbit GTI.

I drained 5 gallons from the tank, and took a look through the fuel level sender opening expecting to see a ratty rubber hose, and found I don't have one. The pipe going from the center to the pump is metal all the way.

Any other likely causes of fuel starvation in right turns with a half tank of gas?

I called the only local radiator shop that still works on gas tanks, they charge $98/hr labor, so it looks like a new tank is probably the way to go. Can anyone comment on the quality of products coming from places like "discountgastanks.com"? They list a new tank for $104, which sounds too good to be true.

Any reccomendations?

Thanks,

Tom

I have a slightly different take on the nature of the problem, but it still leads to the same solution - a new or rebuilt tank.

The stock tank has a plastic "surge tank" or surge pot located in the center. I haven't actually disassembeled a tank, but based on extensive peering into my "bad" tank and a "good used" tank, the surge tank is actually open at the bottom and seals to the tank with a rubber basket (or maybe the rubber gasket forms the floor of the surge pot). In any event, the bad tank had that rubber part completely disintegrated, allowing the fuel to escape from the bottom of the surge pot, rendering it useless.

The lines appear to be all metal, and did not - in my case anyway - appear to be the problem.

I found tanks available from reputable-sounding companies by visiting a local radiator shop - but then bought a good used one from Peter at thescirocco.com. The good used one picked up down to ounces at Summit Point in my ITC car, the bad one started spluttering at 4-5 gallons.

Ive got a 77 VW rabbit that has never had the problems you guys are talking about. It is an ITC prepared rabbit. I'll sell it to you for $800 bucks. The car has $500 worth of racing tires and could be on the track, racing competitively for under $1,000. I need to unload this car. When running. It is very fast. Right now it needs a clutch and maybe half shafts. Engine is SOLID!!

Call or email me
Bryan Addis
SCCA member since 1988
152888

740-353-5478
[email protected]

I raced a rabbit for 5 years and never had the problem with fuel pick-up. I have since removed the tank from my rabbit(building a prod car) so i can't use it, so if anyone is interested in it let me know. I even ran the tank dry at NHIS once and still never had the starvation problem.

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Sam Rolfe
TBR Motorsports
#85 ITC VW Rabbit being converted to LPHP
#85 GP Scirocco