90 240sx

So I know that I don't even HAVE the car yet, but I figured I'd ask... so what do I need to know about racing a Nissan 240 ?

I've got a spare tranny already (used, but really cheap) so what else does a retard like me need?

Anything I should just replace "just cuz" before the season because they go on these cars (if it's cheap enough, that is...)

Also, anyone know of a good shop on Long Island where I can get a little cage work done for less than a million bucks that I can trust?

How about setup shops near route 110?
Also, anyone know of some decently inexpensive harnesses (6pt, hans friendly) or a good fiberglass FIA seat with the head restraints for sale that I can pick up?

Cheers

Is this an already built race car? Or are you starting from scratch?

It's Jeremy's previous flame (the yellow one).:026:

If the car is not already a raced preped car , DONT try to build one waaaay to much cost (aprox 2-4 times more) than buying a already preped and sorted car. Just look on the for sale page a 1990 ita 240sx race ready for 4 grand plus spares. save you cash and buy a one I know I tried to build one spent a lot of cash and still did not get what I wanted so just went out and bought a finshed car. Way better and you will go faster quicker. Unless you have a lot of mechanical skills (welding , fabricating, body/paint and drive train, as well as a full shop of tools)in which case you can build a car but still will cost at least 2x more. Be patient and you can buy just about anything you want at a good price. With the market like it is there will be a lot of good cars available at bargan prices. Ask the local club members they will be an excellent source of info and possibly know of a car to be had right! Good luck with the project!!!

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Originally Posted by PsychoRallye

So I know that I don't even HAVE the car yet, but I figured I'd ask... so what do I need to know about racing a Nissan 240 ?

I've got a spare tranny already (used, but really cheap) so what else does a retard like me need?

Anything I should just replace "just cuz" before the season because they go on these cars (if it's cheap enough, that is...)

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I've heard quite a few stories about problems with these cars, but I have to say mine has been ridiculously reliable, and I'm still using some pieces that were on the car when I bought it in 2002 (I have been tracking/racing the car since 2005). And at that time it had 195k miles. To run down the list of things I've heard about, they are:

- Front hubs: I've heard guys say they go through them every 4-6 races. In contrast, I'm planning to replace all the wheel bearings before the start of this season - not because they need it, but just because I figure it's probably about time. After all, they are the ones that came with the car...
- Exhaust valve springs & retainers: this can be a real problem if you over-rev the motor. The valves on these engines like to start floating somewhere between 7-8k rpm, and when they do the retainers/keepers will bend/pull through, effectively adding to the spring height. One guy I know used to replace his retainers every 2-3 races. I think if you can keep the revs under 6500 you shouldn't have that problem.
- Transmissions: are somewhat of a weak point. I've replaced mine once, due to a synchro going on 4th gear. Good that you have a spare.
- Cooling: can be a problem on these cars, but if yours is track-ready it should already have a good radiator & most likely an oil cooler. As long as they are in good shape you should be fine.

Those are the big things I can think of off the top of my head. Maybe others will add some things to the list, but I don't think it will get too much longer. Just keep up with the regular maintenance and you should end up with a good, reliable, & hopefully fast car. Also, if you search a little you will probably find some older threads about this, the topic has come up once or twice in the past.

Wheel bearings - check 'em. If there's too much play replace.

Suspension - check all your ball joints, etc. Replace as needed.

Brakes - Some people rebuild each year. I went three years without any issues. Your mileage may vary.

Motor - Change the oil. Check the oil pump. Dunno, I haven't done anything to mine other than oil changes since I got it. I have a top-build motor, though. Tristan has a built motor for sale in the classifieds if you just want a motor.

Transmission - Put in some good gear oil. There's been a couple discussions on what people use so do a search. Mine works fine after several racing seasons.

Differential - You need a limited slip if you don't have one. The Nismo clutch type are the way to go. Put in some good gear oil and change it once or twice during the season. The diffs get pretty hot.

I do a once over at the beginning of the season, change all the fluids, and call it good to go. I replace things as needed.

David

Thanks guys, all good to know. I figured wheel bearings might be a bit of a thing cause of the weight of the car...

and the radiator has a pinhole leak in one corner so I don't know how to repair that effectively (JB weld apparently didn't work super great).

No oil cooler, anyone know of a cheapie I can pick up and plumb in ? I assume I should use a sandwich plate, but tell me if there's some more creative way. Suggestions on a place to buy?

I think I can keep the revs in check so I'm not super worried about valve float, "I'm gonna take it easy during this race":eclipsee_steering:

Well... hmm... will check out the built motor, but I'm pretty sure it'll be out of my league at this point.

Thanks guys!

The biggest problem with these cars is heat. They are big truck motors, and when you start to rev them high they make a ton of heat. So make sure your radiator is in good working order, and get an oil cooler plumbed in.

Other than that, the motor's are pretty reliable. Like they said above, check the wheel bearings for play. Over the years I had to occasionally change bearings/hubs.

I always had problems with starters. They would get hot and wouldn't turn over.

I have rebuilt the brakes once, but as long as you are ducting them, they shouldn't give you any problems. Make sure you get a set of the ABS calipers and rotors if you don't already have them. They are beefier and can handle more heat.

Transmissions will last as long as they aren't high mileage. I think most of the problems we have with them is that we grab junk yard trannies with a bazillion miles already on them.

Not to turn this into an ad, but I have a bunch of spares listed in the "Parts for sale" section.

In general, the 240sxs are good handling cars that can be competitive in ITA, so enjoy.

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Originally Posted by DavidM

Wheel bearings - check 'em. If there's too much play replace.

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Wow - are the ITA wheel bearings weaker than the later ITS ones? I've been running my car for years now....including several 12/13 hour enduros and never replaced one wheel bearing.

As a matter of fact....I don't know that I've replaced them since I bought the car with > 155k miles on it....

Not saying it is not a possible problem - just surprised I have not had a problem when running the enduros.

>Suspension - check all your ball joints, etc. Replace as needed.

Especially the big rubber subframe bushings in the rear. They start to crack and get real messy if you haven't replaced them with something more solid. If the rear feels skittish, but you have a good rear alignment - this might be the problem.

>Transmission - Put in some good gear oil. There's been a couple discussions on what >people use so do a search. Mine works fine after several racing seasons.

I've been running the stock trans on Redline MT90 - again for about 4 years now, and in several enduros. Thing probably has over 180k miles on it now. So second on the decent fluids.

>Differential - You need a limited slip if you don't have one. The Nismo clutch type are >the way to go. Put in some good gear oil and change it once or twice during the >season. The diffs get pretty hot.

VERY! I can only speak from the enduro experience - I've smoked a lot of different fluids looking for something that works well. At one point someone on the list had suggested the Mobile 1 Synthetic 80w140. I switched to that - and it works fantastic. I forget how bad diff fluid smells when it gets > 300 deg....

I will also second the notes on how hot these things tend to run. Big radiator is a must.

Along with that - get the car run at least one time on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor. Not for the power number, but to see what your AFR is. The cars run even hotter when you start to run lean with them. Mine had this problem, and it turned out to be the aftermarket fuel pump. I would now only recommend Nissan-only fuel pumps. Had I not wideband dyno'd the car, most likely would have melted some piston tops.


joe

I'll have to take a look at the front wheel bearings (or do you mean rear too?).. thanks for the advice. At a minimum I can repack 'em.... any suggestions on the best grease to use?

The radiator has a PIN hole (it apparently steams ever so slightly only at HOT) so I'm not sure I should worry about it other than to check the coolant every race and go go go...

I'm guessing I should add an oil cooler (there isn't one) because of the multiple heat comments... Any suggestions on placement and place to get a cheap decent one? And, should I use a sandwich plate or some other way to plumb it in? If so, anyone got any recommendations on places to buy online?

Cheers all,
Justin

If the car has been raced check the clutch/pressure plate if not replaced recently you may want to inspect/replace, also the brake master and slave cylinder. rebuild kits are cheap and a lot easier to replace at home vs track. We always do yearly look at clutch/pressure plate flywheel. also u joints/cvs carry spares with you they always fail at the most inopertune times! Same said for the hoses and water pump and belts! you can never have to many spares. Check the run out on your roters if they are slightly warped the will eat up a set of pads fast.

I can't wait to drive this car!!! :)

Why does that sound ominous when you say it Andy ??:D