2.3L oil pump

can some one post an exploded view of the oil pump in the 2.3L engine? i'm looking for the pressure relief spring. i would like to shim it in order to get just a little higher oil pressure

The oil pump relief spring is behind the pressed in cap that is exposed when you remove the pick-up tube. I don't recommend just "shimming" the spring, because all of my experience is in the following statements:

The spring will be put into bind after the full open pressure and the shim have taken all the distance, and forced the cap (pressed in) to walk out to relieve the pressure. Therefore, there is no gain in pressure. :(

Also, the 2.3 lives at very low pressure anyway...30psi to 40psi at full chat. It is product of large galleys and large bearing surfaces. Use specified clearances at the large end of the specification and you will be fine.

Be aware that higher oil pressure not only adds heat to the oil, it also puts a greater drag on the auxillary shaft (less power gets to the wheels). <_< The volume of oil delivered to the bearings is the secret to a good oiling system. Pressure is the delivery system. If your bearings don&#39;t show signs of lack of oil, the system is working fine. If it ain&#39;t broke, don&#39;t fix it!

Remember, the spring is a "relief" device. When it is not working (bind) the pump will be able to generate full pressure...upwards of 150psi, and blow the filter can and or seal. You don&#39;t want to put the spring into bind. :018:

The only "sure" solution as a different pump built with a heavier spring, or a different spring with different pound per inch ratings.

Good racing.

Bill (been there, done that...) :dead_horse:

Billf is right on the mark! 2.3 can live all day on as little as 30# of oil pressure. I&#39;ve tryed hi-vol / hi-pres/ stock/ etc / etc pumps with always the same bearing life. 30 to 60 lbs of oil all get the same looking bearings. Run a STOCK pump and save the$$$$$ for some really good rod bolts, cause you&#39;ll need them sooner or later. Those bolts are the weak point in any 2.3.

thank you for all of the info provided by you guys. i guess with new bearings and a good stock oil pump all will be well. i do rev the motor to the 6000 rpm mark so i just thought that a rule of thumb was to have 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. but if you guys have tried it and have found that the stock pump is good for this then maybe i&#39;ll just leave well enough alone. thanks again guys for answering this.

I agree with all the above. In our ministocks, we ran 7200 rpms with no problem ( 7300 and up was ) Any more definately caused oil starvation. Most of us ran stock pumps. Some tryed softer springs for lower pressure and higher volumn. Good luck!


David

My father (BillF) already told the tale, but for reference... our car ran up to about 6500 rpm and routinely the hot oil pressure was in the 40-45psi range. Just use a good synthetic and keep an eye on the temperature.

Good luck! It&#39;ll survive just about anything!

since we&#39;re on the subject of oil, what are your thoughts on a windage tray in a 2.3L?

As far as a Windage Tray is concerned...get one!
To the best of my knowledge I don&#39;t think we ever ran without one, although we had to make ours at that time because no one sold one. Not a problem anymore!

Good luck!

Thanks Kazoo and Bill F, i just finsihed up the new motor put her in the car and started her up and it runs so good. With a newly built bottom end and the stock oil pump when warm at 3000 rpm i&#39;m getting 70 PSI oil pressure sweeeett. Thanks for all of you guys in here. Hey Kazoo i think i ran with your father at a race in daytona, was his car a blue mustang in the ITB class?

Hi Manny,
Yes that was us. We trekked south a number of years ago, garaged with Marcello. I qualified the car, my father started the enduro...I never got to get in the car during the race, as we had a problem and didn&#39;t finish. Small world!

We&#39;ve since sold the Mustang and are pursuing different cars/classes.
Good luck!