center hub nut removal

Hi,

Im having trouble removing the nut that holds in the CV joint. I guess you could call it the drive axle nut. Any ideas as to why it could be so tight? Thanks

This is because shops usually hit that nut with the air gun and all the power it's got. They usually over torque them. Over time they seem to tighten even more. So unless you have a really good air gun with lots of CFM, the nut just won't come off.

I have a 3/4" drive power bar (30" long) with 32mm 6pt socket for such an ocassion. Put someone in the car with their foot hard on the brake. If it won't snap loose with the big bar, get out big-bertha hammer and hit the power bar HARD. This sometimes snaps it loose. If this doesn't work, get out Teddy-the-Torch and give it the heat. When you re-install, put on some "never seize" and torque it to the specified amount.

"If this doesn't work, get out Teddy-the-Torch and give it the heat."

Ugh!! Not a good idea and a real act of desperation. I would use a good penetrant oil (like KROIL) and soak it for a couple days before resorting to the hot wrench. You are likely to do more harm than good to surrounding components,

All the other suggestions are right on--especially the humongous breaker bar.

cheers.

Won't help much but, don't forget to 'un-dimple' the edge of the nut where it has been staked in by a center punch.

When we tried to remove one of my hubs when I first built the car (original, never been off the car) we had to crank the shop air pressure as high as we dared (but still in the safe limit) for the impact wrench. The other trick was to wait until the compressor had just shut off so that the air tank was at its highest pressure.

A lot of swearing helps too!

I had the same problem except that my household compressor didn't even come close to removing the nuts. What I did, was sprayed the penetrating oil for 2 to 3 days straight. I used my floor jack's handle (~4') and all my weight (240lbs) and it just barely got them loose. Its was kinda scary.

Good luck!

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Richy Gonzalez
GB Racing - #24 ITA CRX

thanks for the helps guys. I have a big ass breaker bar, ill have to get my buddy to hold the brake so we can get this thing off, and get the engine out.


thanks

adam

You will get a lot more torque if you have the wheeland tire on the car on the ground. The first time off is tough. You need a least a four foot breaker. the jack handle is great. Make sure the 1/2" breaker is guaranteed.

That bolt is stubborn, but nothing a good 1/2" breaker bar and 4' cheater bar cant beat. more power than any impact gun can put out. loosen it with the car on the ground, and the car running and the gears in neutral so you can use the brakes (and booster) to lock the wheels.

When we replaced my driver's side axle, we actually *broke* a 1/2 breaker bar (Craftsman) using my jack handle as an extension. Those things are NASTY. Buy a dedicated axle nut socket from an autoparts store if you don't have one already, and get yourself a long cheater bar and a breaker bar with a warranty http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

As for lube, we didn't have any rust or junk on ours, so we hit it with plain 'old WD40 for 5 minutes. Maybe more would have helped, but we got it anyway.

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'88 CRX Si - ITA/PS2 road racer: Handles like it's on jack stands
'98 ITR #0231 - DS autocrosser: Handles like I sold it
'02 Jeep Grand Cherokee - daily driver/tow vehicle: Handles like a jumping castle

I've broke a few 1/2" drive bars with axle nuts and have moved up to the big-ass 3/4" drive bar & 3/4" drive 32mm socket. It won't break!

Dremel and a cutting wheel, unstake the nut, put a single slice partially through the nut and it will unscrew with little drama or broken tools. Spindle nuts should be replaced anyway after repeated staking.

Obscenities. Lots of obscenities.

PB Blaster and an 8' cheater bar http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif Takes 2 people, but comes right off.

the ghetto way of doing it is putting a socket and a fair length bar on the nut, then driving the car forward (or backward, depending which side) until the power of the car is forcing the bar into the ground, turning the nut off

that funny haha!

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Mike Machi crew chief USGUYS RACING

A cold chisel, aimed radially towards the center of the axle on one of the flats works if you haven't got a dremel or a die grinder with a cutting wheel handy. Just remember to throw the thing away.....

The idea of putting the breaker bar or cheater bar on the floor and driving forward or backward also works. It's an old trick used on many farm tractors! But you should have someone else to make certain the socket stays put while you are applying engine-assisted torque. Could be dangerous!