(BAC)-(ACV)- ...Off and (still) running ???

Thanks Karl for your 20 cents worth, now we have just a few more help lines that need to be to be answered concerning my anti-smog controlled car. Can I block off the Air control,andleave the wires unpluged ??? And can I also throw out the Bypass air valve ??? If any one cares enouigh to answer my silly @$$ questions, maybe we could just simplify (my) life and tell me " exactly" what to make this girl run again, and what do I send to the land fill...and lets try not to get too SCCA legalistic !!! Thanks guys (or really cool mechanically inclined chicks that did some lets make our boy friend's Mazda "not" run tricks ) for all the input ! Rick

In my case the getting it running and sending it to the scrap yard happened almost simulateously so take my advice with a grain of salt. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif Pull everything and plug it. All you need is the water temp sensor, intake air temp sensor (89+ have two think 86-88 only have one), boost (MAP) sensor, air meter of course and throttle position sensor. On 89+ cars the OMP has to be plugged up even if it is not being used. I got my ACV blockoff plate from Mazdatrix and fabbed the rest of them from aluminum sheet.

The part about it not running very long was not a fault of mine or tuning. Spun rotor bearing on a fresh motor. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/frown.gif

Chris

[This message has been edited by C. Ludwig (edited January 07, 2002).]

Well, my .02 but I'd hate to go thru all that work only to find out that I'm being protested and have to get the part back from a junkyard. Anyway, specific questions:

ACV valve removal: Yes. Racing beat sells a blockoff plate, or fab your own.

BAC valve: Yes. However, idle *may* be rough. No biggie. However, you could argue that isn't a smog component. Personally, it's not costing you power, it's not in the way really, I'd leave it.

PaulC

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Since BALLZ asked about the motor on the other thread here's the story.

I bought a fresh rebuild from a guy in Atlanta. Won't say who built it because I'm not certain it was there fault but it was a big name in rotarys. Anyway, the guy says it has 1000 miles and it just wasn't the power he was looking for and he's doing a V8 swap. I get the motor, tranny, harness and ECU from him. Everything is super clean and I have no reason to doubt it has low miles. I also called the engine builder and they confirmed it was their motor and the build date. I get it home and pull the oil pan to add the high pressure oil regulator and baffle plate and notice some bearing bits in the oil pan! Feeling like I had nothing to lose I buttoned it up and ran it. Ran great running it up and down the road with no problems. Took it to an autocross and it seized on the third lap. The oil jet for the front rotor is clogged solid (that's what you see on the website). Now my theories are:
1)They built a dirty motor.
2)They didn't clearance the bearing.
3)The guy I bought it from somehow contaminated the motor.

At any rate, the front rotor and main bearing at trashed as is the rotor housing and e-shaft. Everything else is good to go which is alot better than I expected when I First seized it. I'm gonna do my own rebuild and see where it gets me. Cross your fingers!

Chris

[This message has been edited by C. Ludwig (edited January 09, 2002).]