Compressor Opinions

I am in the market for a compressor that can handle all auto tools - including autobody tools. This is for personal use, not business, so I want to stay under $450.

Looking for suggestions/comments on either of the following two compressors:

HUSKY
7 Peak HP 60 Gal Husky Compressor
Model VT6314

A solid CAST IRON, twin cylinder compressor pump for extreme durability. Offers 135 PSI maximum pressure and air delivery 11.7/10.3 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI. It also has a space saving vertical design that is perfect for your home garage or work shop. The compressor also includes an efficient Solberg style intake filter, pre-plumbed globe valve, pressure switch, and tank pressure gauge.

• Up to 5,000 hours of extended life
• A CAST IRON oil-lubricated pump with traditional design that is quieter and longer lasting
• 60 Gallon vertical, space saving tank design
• Powerful, 7.0-peak horsepower motor provides significant air to multiple power tools
• Automotive style changeable air filter
• Protective belt guard
• High quality oversized gauges
• 1070 Pump RPM
• Three-year limited warranty
• Over 35 percent quieter and 60 degrees cooler than aluminum pumps with cast iron sleeves

http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/13...64587314_3.jpg

Lowes

http://images.lowes.com/product/8405...d=158&cvt=jpeg

They seem to be very similar.

Thanks,

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Jason
ITB 17 (NER SCCA)
VW Scirocco


[This message has been edited by itracer (edited June 17, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by itracer (edited June 17, 2005).]

The big problem is SCFM @ 90 psi. That's what you really need for body tools (grinders, sanders, etc.). You want at leat 15 SCFM@90, ideally 20+. You're probably not going to get that w/in your budget.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

Really can't go wrong with either!

It will be your most valuable shop tool.

Sanders EAT AIR, then come back for more. Think about putting the compressor away from where you are working, they are very noisy....interfers with the music.

Jason

I have almost the same compressor in my home shop. It is plenty big for all the air tools except the grinder and sander. I used a Snap On crud thug to remove the undercoating on my car, FYI it is the greatest tool on the planet for this job!!!!! anyway the 60gal compressor would run right at 90psi but the damm thing was running full time. As for any other tool it works great and I haven't had a problem with it yet. Do not get anything smaller! Use Mobil 1 in the compressor!

I have mine in a closet that is vented to the outside. One for air flow and two for noise. I had the closet insulated when I built my house for this purpose. 220 15amp is plenty for the motor. Not to noisey but not quiet.

Make sure you get a water seperator, and oil air tools often.

Last but not least remember that the compressor will vibrate, flex line to anything solid mounted: pipe on the wall or a hose reel. Go to NAPA and get compressor pads. They are blocks of wood that are rubber coated on both sides with a 3/8 hole drilled in them. Set the compressor legs on them and secure with concrete lags in the ground but do not tighten them all the way down, leave them just tight enough to hold the compressor in place but loose enough that it can vibrate and not rip the lags out of the ground. Sounds funny but I have had friends with home shops that tightened them real tight and over the cource of 6 months the compressor broke all three bolts and then walked off the pads and fell over, not a pretty sight!

Great choice on size and price for the house. I have mine plummed to a 50ft hose reel with a second quick fitting next to the reel just in case two hoses were ever needed. I also have it plummed to copper line along the wall to my "clean room" and then use coil air hoses. Just right for building engines and tranmissions. If you are going to hard line your shop then remember not to go too small on line, volume is everything. Go as large as possible. I have 1" line out of the compressor along the wall to 3/4 line in the shop and clean room and 1/2 hoses.

Jon

My Husky ran fine until in its sixth month and after about 5 extended grinder/sander projects it now trips its internal breaker regularly once it is working to get refilled above 100psi. Quite annoying reseting it two or three times to get 130 psi back in the tank.

They put a nice little chart of which tools too use and how frequently they can be right on the compressor case - when they say grinders are for infrequent use they mean it.

It was a great compressor until I pushed it too far (45 minutes running nonstop regularly during those projects). Stick with electric for the heavy duty grinding/sanding.

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Ed.
240SX ITA

I agree with Ed. If you rule out the need to run a DA sander and buy an electric one for that purpose you are probably overkill on your NEEDS. Go a notch down on size and a notch up on quality. It will last you much longer and be adequate for all other jobs.

I have a little 30Gal, 5HP job and it works great for impact, ratchets, HVLP painting, and airing up tires. It is marginal with a grinder and with my DA it is just about useless...but my friends' 80Gal, twin stage unit can't keep up with my DA either. Starting with a full tank, it takes a minute or two to be at 90psi before it kicks on, it will never kick off unless I give the DA a break.

I've got the same size in my shop got it from Grainger don't remember what it cost. It does great. The board sander & the DA will give it a good run though. Do what ever you can to give it good air ventilation like most things heat is the killer.

Rubber mounts - you can also use some 1/4" thick neoprene. It doesn't need much but something under the feet is required. Even a couple of squares of rubber car floor mats together would work, no need to be fancy.

Any hard lines you run need to be sloped so the water drains. I changed out the pet cock at the tank bottom so it had a handle that was easier on my fingers - you need to drain them often especially when its humid.

If the compressor drowns out the music, you just need more watts per channel.

Funny w/ the timing on this thread. A friend called last night, and is getting the 7hp/60gal standup units from the local Lowe's for ~375. I him buy me one! Anybody want to buy a low-hour 33gal Craftsman?

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

Save more money, wait a month or two. Get the biggest thing you can afford - you'll like it 20 years from now.

I got a 30 gallon compressor, non-belt driven and it is horrible. Works for light tools, but with head porting it runs continuously and with the DA it runs continuously - very irritating and loud.

Were I to do this over again I'd get at least an 80 gallon one or larger, with as much flow as possible.
R

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Ron Earp
NC Region
Ford Lightning
RF GT40 Replica
White Jensen-Healey ITS
Silver "Skull" 260Z ITS
Email: "rlearp at gt40s.com"

Had a rebuilt 5hp Quincy head sitting in my shop for 10 years before I decided to try it at home. Bought a 60 gal tank and piped the basement with copper. At 25 SCFM this baby does not care what is hooked to the other end. Still cycles with continoun work with a glass bead cabinet, and grinders/sanders can work two at a time, or more. Agree...get the largest you can find for the money you want to spend. BTW, the Quincy is all cast iron and comparatively quiet in my basement under my steps (out of the way). Chuck

Not to be argumentive, the point I was trying to make is that IMO if you can't afford (or it doesn't make sense) to buy a good quality compressor capable of running a DA continously--I am thinking $1500+. then why waste your money, space, and electrical work to wire 230V (if you don't already have it), drill holes in the concrete to have an air compressor that is way more than you need for everyday stuff and inadequate for a DA. If you'll never use a DA then a 60gal ish, 5hp job will be good for a die grinder.

I wouldn't pay so much attention to tank size and HP. It is the SCFM that the compressor puts out that is more important. Buy a reconditioned screw drive if you need tons of air.

One other thing to consider when comparing potential air compressors is the "peak HP" probably signifies the amount of power the motor consumes the instant it starts, and then never again. Starting current is much higher than running current. A home circuit breaker is not like an automotive type fuse. It can handle a significantly higher current than its' rating for a short duration, where a fuse will blow almost immediately.

A 7HP electrical motor is 5222 Watts (746 Watts per HP) if you are running 240V/230V/220V (don't know what actual voltage your power company supplies to your panel) you would need 23 Amps at 230V.... If you intend on buying a 115V compressor, or one that can run either way, but you intend on keeping it 115V, a 20A DEDICATED breaker will supply you with 2300Watts or a maximum of 3HP.

The cheapest compressor at Grainger that can deliver a continous 8.0SCFM@90PSI (my DA requirements) is $589.00...Ingersoll-Rand unit ITEM 4yw09.

Others are suggesting 20+SCFM...the least expensive unit at Grainger is a 7.5HP/80Gal with 3/4NPT outlet required to flow that SCFM is $1989.00 (item # 4M310)

If you want to supply your whole block, grainger has a 30HP screw drive unit--requires 460V/3Y power...it will deliver 125 SCFM!!!! Oh yeah and it is a whisper quiet 69dB at 3 feet away. It can be yours for the sale price of $11,629.00 :eek!:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Bill Miller:
Funny w/ the timing on this thread. A friend called last night, and is getting the 7hp/60gal standup units from the local Lowe's for ~375. I him buy me one! Anybody want to buy a low-hour 33gal Craftsman?

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Where at? Is it a return? That would be a bargain to pickup as it is listed on line for $547.



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Ed.
240SX ITA

Ed,

I don't know all the details. My friend just called and told me about the deal. Said he was buying two, and I could buy the second one if I wanted. Since he was getting two, I doubt they were returns. I believe he said they were C-H units.

I think I may know what the deal is. A couple of months ago, they were changing out the C-H units for the Kobalt units (Lowes' house brand). Another friend bought the two standup models they had for $750. I'm guessing that there were two more burried in inventory somewhere.

That's one of the things I really like about Lowes over HD (well, at least the store by me). Is that when they're discontinuing something, or getting the new models in, they'll discount stuff pretty heavily to move it out. I've gotten quite a few things there for not a whole lot of money. For example (and this is just a partial list).

Display model (never used) DeWalt 1/2" drive electric impact gun. Regular price: $179, I bought it for $30.

Troybilt (actually MTD) 42" / 17.5 hp lawn tractor (brand new, last year's model). Regular $999, I paid $350.

Troybilt (MTD again, I thinkg) 3700 psi / 4 gpm pressure washer w/ Honda GX-390 13 hp engine (was missing the hose, wand, and tips). Regular price: $999, I paid $300 (and spend another $125 on a 50' hose, wand, and tip set).

Pellet stoves (forget the brand, bought them for a friend). End of season close-out. Had 2 left. Regular price was $1199. I bought both, and got them for $600/ea.

Husquavarna (sp?) 141 chain saw (16" bar). Brand new, but no packaging. Regular price, $229, I paid $50.

Other friends have gotten similar deals on things. One guy got a stainless Jenn-aire gas grill that listed for $1099 for $350.

I've gotten small stuff (like partial spools of wire) for pennies on the dollar.

Lots of other stuff like this. I love that place!!!

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

Guess I need to take a hike out to Lowes, unfortunately it is a ways, I pass three HD on the way.

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Ed.
240SX ITA

Quote:

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Originally posted by turboICE:
Guess I need to take a hike out to Lowes, unfortunately it is a ways, I pass three HD on the way.

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Do you hear crickets chirping? http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/biggrin.gif


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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608