Will a torque stick properly work on an electric torque wrench or only work properly on a gun hooked up to a compressor? The reason I want to know is because we would like to use this method for our pit stop in a 12 hr race.....
thanks
greg
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Will a torque stick properly work on an electric torque wrench or only work properly on a gun hooked up to a compressor? The reason I want to know is because we would like to use this method for our pit stop in a 12 hr race.....
thanks
greg
In early with my guess. First, I assume you mean the socket extensions that are color coded, and flex at a predetermined torque?
I would imagine that they flex when they flex. So, if the electric impact generates the same tq as an air gun, the result will be the same. I've always *guessed* that using them resulted in approximately X tq, or Y tq, (or whatever tq)as long as you didn't spend an hour on them with a 350ft lb gun.
This is all a guess though, and I will be interested in learning more.
One fear I'd have is that if using an electric unit, and the battery is not up to snuff, you could have an undertorqued nut.
Greg, I dont think that the time saved versus risk is worth it. Not sure what kind of car or tires you are running at Nelson but I would use the elctric to brake the nuts and put them on and hit it with a torque wrench.
The other option is that you can get two cylinders and use air guns with the torque sticks. That is a set up that we have used in the past for previous longest days.
I'll see you at the track, I don't think we met at the Steel Cities Double back in June, I run the white ITA Neon.
I'm driving with Murfin racing at the 12hr in a neon.
Chris
Just get set the regulator on the nitrogen bottle before the race with some trial & error on how many PSI = how many Ft-# on the lug. If you run two guns on the same bottle, the tire guys need to listen for the other guy & coordinate their efforts. You also have to know how long to leave the gun pounding away on the lug, but again, a little pre-race training and you're all set.
I don't know anything about a torque stick, but the impact load from an air gun does make things behave differently than a static torque applied. Try it and let us all know, I am at least curiuos.
It should work fine provided you have a quality impact, such as the Snap On unit.
As Matt noted, it's actually very easy to create a "calibration sheet" for an air impact gun. For example, I know that my Ingersoll 1/2" gun will, at 80psi on the regulator and using a 50' length of 1/2" hose, reliably hit 75 ft. lbs. Need a little more or less...just fiddle with pressure a bit.
That said, we ALWAYS follow up with a torque wrench. You're nuts if you don't.
That's an interesting point. Watch any ALMS race, or Koni race, and the guy with the gun zings them on, and off they go. I can't ever remember seeing a guy run around with a tq wrench...
Truthfully, it matters what your intentions are. If you are trying to win a race at all costs, just bang them on and don't be afraid of over torquing them. Expect to change studs after the race.Quote:
Originally Posted by lateapex911
If you don't want to replace your studs, take more time going on with them. I personally use a torque stick and have never had a problem with it, but make sure nobody tries to use it in reverse.
No pun intended...............Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRW
changed tires around 40 to 50 times on a ST team, never once changed/broke/needed to replace a stud.Quote:
Originally Posted by europeanspec
Same goes for other enduros I have worked.
After a while you get a really good feel, with Air it more sure fired, but even with a electric impact you can get a good feel for it.
Right, what I meant to say was, if you are going for all out performance, pound them on quickly and deal with breakage afterwards. You probably won't need to change anything, but you could and if you did, it would be studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyc