I want to put ducting on my ITA CRX, but there doesn't seem to be alot of room to work with. I was hoping someone could give me some tips or even better, pictures, of their ducting.
Thanks
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I want to put ducting on my ITA CRX, but there doesn't seem to be alot of room to work with. I was hoping someone could give me some tips or even better, pictures, of their ducting.
Thanks
unfortunately you pretty much have to squish the tube. we ran our CRX from the 90-91 bumper holes then up high and alongside the bumper horns (squish the tube here) using zip ties through factory holes to secure the tubing. when it gets to the LCA, point it at the brake and route as best you can. remember to ensure that you have no contact from lock-lock and adequate free length too.
tricks:
force bends by poking holes through the fabric of the duct up and downstream of the radius you want, on the insde of the radius. fish a zip tie through these holes and pull it as tight as needed. the tie will pull the reinforcing coils together and make a "permanent" bend.
you can mount the duct the same way, just have the tie gather 1-2 coils of the reinforcement.
sorry - no pics
Jesse, we can show you at M6 on Blet's CRX. Don't use 3". 2.5" is the way to go.
3" will fit... kinda... but not well. 2.5" should be much easier but there really isn't much room to work with.
seeing it would help for sure. I am a visual learner...Quote:
Originally Posted by spnkzss
as inexpensive as possible would also be good
I haven't made these in a while (although I sold quite a few a while back) because it is pretty time consuming, but give me a call and we can chat about it.
I know a number of people who have them still use them and since they are light and strong they will last, and yes you need to use 2.5" hose
tom, those are awesome, good work.
There was driver Dave Beyersdorf who used to run the ARRC and a lot of Waterford Hills and SCCA races up here around Michigan . He has since moved to the South East .
His crew chief Pat Shey used to build some very nice ducts that fit nicely and were very effective .
Pat was from the Toledo Ohio area if I remember correctly .
Sorry I don't have any contact for him but Dave is on facebook . You might be able to look him up .
Gee guys, I didn't realize you liked these parts so much.
I have decided to put them back on the list and will be building them on a per request basis. I have templates for the Civic/CRX and the Acura Integra. I have priced them at $150 a set (in silver or black) since they are tedious and time consuming, but they are strong and light and direct the air exactly where it will do some good. The inlet hole is 2.5" dia, but can be build to your requirements.
If you have a custom request let me know,
Send me an email or give me a call if you want a set.
Tom,
Could you make these to fit an '87 CRX?
Thanks!
hoop
Yeah, me to, probably 2 sets. Should be more room to work with on the torsion bar cars.
I'll have to get a look at the differences in the front hub carrier etc, but if it is similiar it should not be hard
If they are a lot different than the 88 than I would need to get a hold of some junker front end pieces for a few days (we can work that out).
I've always heard you need to cool both sides of the rotor to prevent warping. Is that just a myth?
The best you can do is try and vent as much air to the center of the rotor (if it's a vented rotor) since it is trying to force the air out the veins. What my unit does is push air to the center and on the caliper side of the rotor to try and get some additional cooling to the caliper (minimal but anything is helpful). The only two things I've experienced that have warped a rotor is water on a hot rotor, and stopping the car with very hot brakes, and sitting there with your foot on the brake thereby heat soaking the one spot with what is coming from the pad.
I have not heard of cooling both sided equally making a difference.
Anybody have any pictures of the brake duct inlet especially on the 88-89 cars? Can you open holes in the front of the bumper for the ducts?
I have attached a link to the fitting that I used on the CRX-Si. http://raceshop.sbmsinc.com/photos/Hose_adapter_0.JPG
I also started to make Brake Ducts again, so if you need them let me know.
Yeah, I've seen people do that. But can you cut a hole and rivit in a http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3623 to the lower part of the 88-89 bumper? I know yo could do it to an air dam. I think theres something that says no changes to the body can be made or something?
BTW, Tom, you have the Unorthodox Racing race crank pulley in stock?
Well actually if you look at the design of the pocket (where I have the fitting installed) it is actually a more effective air source, since it is longer and has more frontal area so it will collect more air and should have a better ram effect. Plus the fitting goes in with a simple pop rivet and then the hose attaches to it. If I'm not mistaken the 88 didn't have the driving light pockets, but you can get that bumper cover really cheap from the web and replace the old one (it's also a great place to put my trade stickers .. shameless plug)
I don't stock the pulley (since the 88 and 89-91 crank snout is different), but can get them pretty quickly.