Windshield repair/replacement options

I have a 1985 ITA/7 RX. It has a cracked windshield, a star crack at the top that ran all the way down to the bottom. It is on the passenger side of the windshield and does not obscure diver vision.

Since ITA does not allow for Lexan replacement (my original solution, about $50) I'm looking for other budget solutions. Can the glass be repaired in a way that will pass tech? Can it be helicopter tapped? Are there other repair options?

I don't really want to replace the windshield with another glass one. Used is going to be $75 or more and is likely to get damaged again. This was a newer 'shield that got damaged. I seem to have bad luck with glass, so I'm looking for other options.

Thanks,

Jeff

Depends on the tech inspector. If you already have your annual, you can probably get away with it until someone at Tech or Grid tells you about it, then remarks in your logbook to "fix by next race". If you have to go in for an annual in advance, depending on how long until your next race I'd probably write in there "fix by first event" or "fix by second event".

Regardless, a replacement is in your near future...

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Originally Posted by Greg Amy

Depends on the tech inspector. If you already have your annual, you can probably get away with it until someone at Tech or Grid tells you about it, then remarks in your logbook to "fix by next race". If you have to go in for an annual in advance, depending on how long until your next race I'd probably write in there "fix by first event" or "fix by second event".

Regardless, a replacement is in your near future...

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And LEXAN unfortunately is not an option (he says as he claws he way from the slippery slope!)

Yeah, I'm kind of surprised about Lexan. I'm new to racing, the car is ITA/7 but the simplest solution would be to run NASA PT. Lexan is allowed with no points. They run 5 events at Road Atlanta, which aside from Barber, is the closest track.

That may make the most sense. Then I don't have to replace with glass which I know I will chip(call me paranoid)!

The downside to glass is you have to replace it if it takes a hit. The upside is you can see were your going. I have run both in a GT car and would much rather have the expense and vision than the blurry view thru several race old lexan. Nothing worse than a late day race with the sun in you line of site and even slightly scratched lexan. But to each there own.
Chris

You're going to need special cleaners and polishes for the Lexan. It is very sensitive and easily ruined. Ask me how I know. It won't be a "cheaper" option than going with glass.

Wow, $50? Lucky you. When my windshield cracked and I priced out Lexan it came up about the same price as glass (~$150). Are you sure the Lexan was the required thickness per the rules? Did you include the extra cost of the windshield clips and inner reinforcement bars that are required when running Lexan windows?

I would agree that the glass will chip again, however, I have 5 years on my new windshield and it is still absolutely fine. I think they will last a lot onger than you are thinking.

As another "simple solution", you could always run STU in SCCA.

Jeff-
When I bought my PRO-7, 85 RX-7 it came with a cracked windshield and the replacement estimate was $100.00 to remove, $100.00 for the windshield itself and $100.00 to install. So I removed the windshield myself and then cleaned up the seating area around the windshield frame. Installed approx 5-6mm thick self adhesive foam onto the windshield seating area. Sticky side only on the side of the windshield seating area. I then made windshield clips. The clips also have the same foam on the area of the clip that touches the windshield. The clips were then attached with thread inserts to the body and screwed into place. This allows you to screw the clips down to your torque values. When using a rivet gun you can possibly crack the new windshield.
Now when I crack a windshield I only have to pay for the windshield and it takes about 15 minutes to remove and reinstall. With this setup I felt the rigiditiy of the car was still there with a full cage but I would not do this on a street car. I have also raced in the rain with no leaks.

Duane

Windshields are consumables in IT--just like tires and brake pads.

Learn how to remove and replace.

Try butyl instead of urethane.

Talk to your friendly insurance agent see who does their glass work. See if you can work a deal their name on car for a deep discount. Might be they like some beer and pizza occasionaly, or coffee and doughnuts on a cold winters day. In other words BRIBE Em if you can! :eclipsee_steering:

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Originally Posted by PRO-7 racer

Jeff-
When I bought my PRO-7, 85 RX-7 it came with a cracked windshield and the replacement estimate was $100.00 to remove, $100.00 for the windshield itself and $100.00 to install. So I removed the windshield myself and then cleaned up the seating area around the windshield frame. Installed approx 5-6mm thick self adhesive foam onto the windshield seating area. Sticky side only on the side of the windshield seating area. I then made windshield clips. The clips also have the same foam on the area of the clip that touches the windshield. The clips were then attached with thread inserts to the body and screwed into place. This allows you to screw the clips down to your torque values. When using a rivet gun you can possibly crack the new windshield.
Now when I crack a windshield I only have to pay for the windshield and it takes about 15 minutes to remove and reinstall. With this setup I felt the rigiditiy of the car was still there with a full cage but I would not do this on a street car. I have also raced in the rain with no leaks.

Duane

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Winner winner chicken dinner. That's exactly what I did when I built my RX-7. Ten years ago. Still going strong.

I did it that way because I was able to install a better cage in the car with the windshield out. I knew the windsheild would take a rock or something someday, and it would happen at a race where quick removal would make life easier, so no sealant. It was pretty easy to do, actually, and it's worked great.

If you can get a windshield for $75, I think you really have no worries. My crew guy drinks more in beer each weekend.

Duane,

I like your idea a lot. Can you post pics or send them to me? Thanks!

J

Anyone use windshieldstogo.com? Looks like I can save $60-$80 by installing it myself.

Yes...Learn to do it.

The major problem is cutting the old broken one out.

What are you guys doing about disposal of the old windshield?

I fold it into thirds (in a big contractors bag) and dispose of at the curb--usually inside a couple other bags.

Do the folding inside the bag in order to keep down the number of flying shards. Wear welding gloves and a face shield too when doing this.

When mine came out it was mostly in pieces anyway. These pieces went in the garbage can and out on the curb.

I picked up my new windshield today. Then I picked up a tube of of urethane sealant from NAPA, installed it an old caluking gun. Well the gun broke, and the urethane got everywhere but out the nozzle. I guess it was a good thing because I found out I'll need some shims to place the windshield in the frame. It seems the frame doesn't match the windshield, I'd get one side to fit the top and the other side would be down on the lower sill with a gap at the top. So anyone got some additional tips?

A butyl kit--assuming it fits.

I simply cannot stand urethane since windshields are regularly changed on my cars.

If you've got a newer make/model of car, remember that the windshield (and other windows) contribute to the structural integrity of the vehicle, when glued in correctly. What this means in practical terms when you have a cage in the car is an open question, of course.

K

K--With a cage it doesn't mean anything. The ease of removal trumps that damn glue.

The only issue is will a Butyl Kit work with the given pinchweld and molding.

Modifications shall not be made unless authorized herein.

d. Windshield clips and rear window straps per the GCR Section
9.3 Windshield Clips/Rear Window Straps, are permitted and

recommended.


Clips or straps are allowed (to be added?). Is an alternative method of window installation using other than stock materials or techniques considered to be a permitted modification?

I'm sure that clips and or straps are an allowed way to install a windshield. In my case there's no rubber gap filler for the bottom, but there is a gap. So foam or butyl seem out of the question as I'll have to glue it to keep it in place.

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Originally Posted by joeg

K--With a cage it doesn't mean anything. The ease of removal trumps that damn glue.

The only issue is will a Butyl Kit work with the given pinchweld and molding.

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The car is also a roadster, so even with a hard top it doesn't add much strength. A butyl kit would work with the pinchweld seam, the molding on the other hand is the question. It's a simple rubber that fits on the sides and top edge, nothing goes on the bottom edge though there is a gap of about 3/16" or so. There's also the plastic tray on the bottom that would have to be cut to fit over any bottom clips...

If you want to fill the gap with normal windshield glue just coat the outside 2" of the windshield with Vasoline and put it in place as normal. You can get it good and level with no gaps and it will be easily removable and held in with straps.

Steve,

Thanks for the idea of using vasoline. I'll give that a try as soon as I get some clips made to hold the windshield down.