hey everyone im new just got a quick ??

hey everyone my name is ismael... and im new to the fourm and to scca, imma start building a ITS rx7 beginning of this upcoming year once i get my income tax and ive been read alot of the post and stuf like that and so far i just have two quick questions which are...can u remove sound deading tar, and second my rx7 was originally automatic and i converted it to manuel but autos and manuels have different tranny mounts so i had to make my own tranny mount will this break some sort of rule or regulation?? actually i have one more my dash has been changed out so it doesnt have the vin on there the only vin i got is the one the firewall...what should i do about this?? or should i just get another shell that has both vin plates? thanks in advance for ur help
ismael

also are lexan hatches allowed??

Hello and welcome.....you made a good choice starting with a Second Gen RX7. Good, solid, reliable car.

One piece of advice. Before, during and after your build, read the ITCS section of the GCR many times. It's our rulebook, is very short and will answer most any questions a new guy building a car will have. For some of the unanswerable ones, come here, post and it and watch the debates begin...lol......

Reading the rules not only tells you what you can and can't do, but also may give you ideas about things you have not thought of. Rules are available for free, online, at www.scca.org.

To answer your specific questions, you should try to figure out a way to use a stock tranny mount on the RX7. I'm sure someone here has converted from auto to manual and can help you with that.

Second, no, lexan is not legal for windows/hatches.

What Jeff Said ^^^^^

"Custom" tranny mount is illegal. Stock mount is legal.

Lexan = illegal

Vin plate shouldn't be a big deal.

Good luck and have fun :)

awesome thanks for ur help...hmmm i dont know what to do about the tranny mount then cuz the mounting points are way off i mean they are like a good...5 inches apart i think, what i did was i got the manuel mount and the auto mount and 2 metal squares and welded it together and braced it up.... i hope the vin plate wont be a problem lol it would suck to build my car and find out it cant be used lol.. btw thanks for ur help...
are we allowed to post project build ups on this fourm??

also whats the best header and exhuast pipe size gives the best power??

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Originally Posted by ismaelae86

are we allowed to post project build ups on this fourm??

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Of course!

when i first started to learn the rx-7 stuff , i was told you could not convert auto to straight drive . the trans chassic mounts are diff. there are plenty of the straight drive cars out there. get one , and come in we (the other rx-7 racers & i ) will help you learn this car , so you can enjoy racing more. are you in the southeast ?

no im in southwest in socal... i know the tranny mount ive made doesnt work to well lol the tranny bounces a little bit... ive taken my car to a few redline event here in socal at willowsprings ive taken my corolla and my rx7,... heres a few pics of one of the event...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/86panda/me1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/86panda/me6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/86panda/me5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/86panda/me3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/86panda/me4.jpg
and here is the only pic i got of my corolla on the track going ccw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC03024-1.jpg
hopefully i can find a good shell for cheap and just move everything over, well mostly just the engine and trans and my hks coilovers, which i was wondering can i use my hks coilovers?? they hiper d springs rates are 6kg and 5kg im not sure what that would be in lbs

can u remove sound deadening tar?

yes , you can. bags of dry ice laid on area , then bump lighty with a hammer(not the dry ice). has worked for me. look at set-up for rx-7 in the mazda forum for the other stuff you wiil/could use for your car.

ok thank u very much

Since it hasn't been mentioned, if your car is configured the way the pictures show it the hood it considered illegal. Only Non turbo parts can be used, the TII hood would be out. :)

So would the bigger wheels and tires.....but that's easy stuff.

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Originally Posted by ismaelae86

can u remove sound deadening tar?

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DONT use an air chisel.....(ask me how I know:eek:)



I left my car outside for a few hours with air temp about 20. I was able to tap it with a hammer and it chipped right off.

lol yeah i figured about the hood i have to look for a n/a aluminum hood to replace mine and yeah i gotta find me some 15x7 rims but i have decided which ones to get yet, i notice alot of people use kosei or something like that?? why is that?? are they really light or something?? i was thinking of getting some of those or some enkei RPF1 cuz they weigh like 9 pounds a pop which is pretty light i think well atleast compared to my 16's meshies and my 17 ponies lol, and i can run 225/45 sized tires correct? size is unrestricted

The air chisel/hammer works great. you do need it to be 10 outside though. Use the wide body side moulding bit and dont push hard when the thing stops. goes right thru the floor and then jams up. Built 4 first gen cars that way,just gets harder to find solid shells and cores.
Dan

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Originally Posted by ismaelae86

lol yeah i figured about the hood i have to look for a n/a aluminum hood to replace mine and yeah i gotta find me some 15x7 rims but i have decided which ones to get yet, i notice alot of people use kosei or something like that?? why is that?? are they really light or something?? i was thinking of getting some of those or some enkei RPF1 cuz they weigh like 9 pounds a pop which is pretty light i think well atleast compared to my 16's meshies and my 17 ponies lol, and i can run 225/45 sized tires correct? size is unrestricted

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The Kosei K1's are very light for the price, but I don't think they are available anymore. Especially in the correct offset. As far as tires go the 225/45/15 size is the most ideal, but going to a 225/50/15 is also usable.

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Originally Posted by ismaelae86

i notice alot of people use kosei or something like that?? why is that?? are they really light or something??

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Enkie's (sp?) They're 9 1/2 lbs and only $190 each if I remember right.

See Phil www.philstireservice.com He's one of us! :023:

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Originally Posted by paulydee

The Kosei K1's are very light for the price, but I don't think they are available anymore. Especially in the correct offset. As far as tires go the 225/45/15 size is the most ideal, but going to a 225/50/15 is also usable.

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oh they dont make um any more?? darn so i would have to find them used? whats the best offset?? ididnt know ra1's cam 225/45 that would be best....less sidewall flex

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Originally Posted by JLawton

Enkie's (sp?) They're 9 1/2 lbs and only $190 each if I remember right.

See Phil www.philstireservice.com He's one of us! :023:

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9.5lbs? lol ok i was just going but some add i think i saw in grassroots.. 190 is a tall order but worth it i think right??? how much do kosei k1 go for now adays?

oh mevermind on the enkeis according to phils site they dont come in my lug pattern.,.. well atleast not the 15's

the kosi k-1 (15x7) are not available anymore .(damn it) i'm always looking for wheels that will work for us. 5x114.7 or 5x4.5 with 25mm (4.75") or 30mm (5") offset with 1/4 spacer works well. this wheels are getting hard to find. good luck ! ralph

I use 94-98 Mustang v6 wheels, they are 15x7, fairly light and very strong, 24mm offstet that is perfect without spacers. The wheels can be obtained for less than $100/set. Use the money that would waste on expensive wheels on the very best water and oil cooling system you can afford or a 4.88 or 5.13 rear gear setup.

matt

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Originally Posted by racingralph

the kosi k-1 (15x7) are not available anymore .(damn it) i'm always looking for wheels that will work for us. 5x114.7 or 5x4.5 with 25mm (4.75") or 30mm (5") offset with 1/4 spacer works well. this wheels are getting hard to find. good luck ! ralph

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ive been looking with no luck lol :(

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Originally Posted by xr4racer

I use 94-98 Mustang v6 wheels, they are 15x7, fairly light and very strong, 24mm offstet that is perfect without spacers. The wheels can be obtained for less than $100/set. Use the money that would waste on expensive wheels on the very best water and oil cooling system you can afford or a 4.88 or 5.13 rear gear setup.

matt

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do u have a picture of this rims so i can see what they look like please....and from what i hear 4.88 and 5.13 r&p are hard to find arent they?? becuz they are custom made only

I do not have any pictures, they are 3 spoke style that is great for brake cooling. Look on ebay for 94-98 Mustang V6 wheels, you should be able to see some pictures. The rear gears are semi hard to find and very expensive when you do. That is why I said to save the money on wheels and spend it on stuff that makes the car competitive. I do not know what tracks you will be running at but the single best improvement will probably be a 4.88 or 5.13 LSD.

matt

The team dynamic wheels are as light as the Kosi and still available. Pro race is strong and about 13 pounds. I keep the 4.88 and 5.12 in stock so they are not hard to find anymore. This seems to be a common misconception so I will make a seperate post.

+1 Team Dynamics

For removing the tar, I got some compressed air from a computer store and shot it out at the tar with the can upside-down.

This makes a freezing gas come out and it quickly freezes the tar so you can chip it off. This is better than the dry-ice, which I also tried. The dry-ice is fine, but it's hard to position it on all the slants and corners and such. With the compressed air, you can shoot it exactly where you want it.

Also cans of compressed air are a little easier to get.

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Originally Posted by seckerich

The team dynamic wheels are as light as the Kosi and still available. Pro race is strong and about 13 pounds. I keep the 4.88 and 5.12 in stock so they are not hard to find anymore. This seems to be a common misconception so I will make a seperate post.

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how much do the ring and pinions go for?? i will be mostly running willow springs and button willow and might go up to thunder raceway every once in a while...which would be better 4.88 or 5.12

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Originally Posted by Scooter

For removing the tar, I got some compressed air from a computer store and shot it out at the tar with the can upside-down.

This makes a freezing gas come out and it quickly freezes the tar so you can chip it off. This is better than the dry-ice, which I also tried. The dry-ice is fine, but it's hard to position it on all the slants and corners and such. With the compressed air, you can shoot it exactly where you want it.

Also cans of compressed air are a little easier to get.

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can this be picked up at like staples and what not??? is it a certain type?? i will probably use this method for the odd angles and dry ice for the easy ones...

by the way imma start my project real soon and start up a thread i finally found a shell that was orignally manuel unlike mine

how much do the team dynamics wheels go for in price they are pretty nice but i cant find the prices on there

They have discontinued the Pro Race 1 and only have the Pro Race 1.2 now. You need a 15 x 7, 5/4.5 in a +35 offset. They used to have a +30 but I think that was only on the 1 and not the 1.2. They run about $155 each or so retail. Most wheel places should be able to order them in a weeks time, otherwise they may have to come from overseas and that takes a month or two. I ordered mine from Discount Tire, know someone who gets me a deal.

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Originally Posted by mbuskuhl

They have discontinued the Pro Race 1 and only have the Pro Race 1.2 now. You need a 15 x 7, 5/4.5 in a +35 offset. They used to have a +30 but I think that was only on the 1 and not the 1.2. They run about $155 each or so retail. Most wheel places should be able to order them in a weeks time, otherwise they may have to come from overseas and that takes a month or two. I ordered mine from Discount Tire, know someone who gets me a deal.

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do u guys normally run spacers on wheels with that off set?? cuz the offset seems to little for me then again i have a zero offset in the rear and the front is about 13 so i might just not be use to the way it looks lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...916081238a.jpg

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Originally Posted by ismaelae86

do u guys normally run spacers on wheels with that off set?? cuz the offset seems to little for me then again i have a zero offset in the rear and the front is about 13 so i might just not be use to the way it looks lol

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I think you'll find it beneficial to read the GCR again as some have suggested. The wheel can not protrude outside the fender (specfic verbiage in GCR). You also have to run stock fenders. With a zero offset you are way outside the fender. I run a +35 with a 1/2" spacer (ARP long studs) and 225/45/15 R6. This works to just clear the front spring seat yet keep the tire in compliance with the GCR as far as IT rules are concerned. Your results may vary.

i was just asking if u guys used some sort of spacer..but i know the wheels cant stick out and i have stock fenders...i just dont know how far in 30 offset is since im use to my low offset wheels...good thing is i already got long arp studs in the front :) i just need to get some for the rear :(

NO Spacer 24mm offset is perfecton a 7" wide wheel.

matt

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Originally Posted by xr4racer

NO Spacer 24mm offset is perfecton a 7" wide wheel.

matt

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ok awesome thats exactly what i wanted to know an exact offset to shoot for