Ballast Question

I am a little light and need to add ballast.

My thoughts are to make an easily changeable ballast rather than using solid lead bars.
The idea is to use a heavy metal conatiner( a military surplus ammo can) filled with lead shot, which you can add or subtract as necessary. This would be bolted to the floor of the car like any other ballast, with another safey bolt through the lid for added security.
Besides this being easy to change or adjust, I think it would be safer than a solid bar because the shot would absorb some of its own energy within the can in the event of an accident or overturn.

The GCR states only that it must be securely attached with 1/2" bolts. I don't see any other issues within the GCR.

Any thoughts about the idea or legality?

Thanks,

Todd

So I'm thinkin'... ammo can, half-inch bolts, etc.
I'm thinkin' you're going to have a hard time making this look like something that really belongs in a race car. Just my opiinion, of course! :D

I did that once, worked great. I used a pc of square tubing w/ end caps welded in and a pipe fitting welded on so a threaded cap could go to seal it up. It had tabs welded on which went over the bolts for the passengers seat mount. If it was filled with lead shot I think it could weigh as much as 75#. GCR does state that no one pc can weigh more than 50#, not sure why though.

Now that the minimum weight changed, I don't need it anymore. Hell, you can have it if you if you wanted to come get it, no way I'm shipping it.

Todd, I have about 75 lbs of lead "bread baskets" if needed. I melted down some lead shot in a saucepan, and then poured them into small loaf pans, and made 3 "bricks". I wouldn't suggest doing that again, but I have them if anybody needs some balast. The Wabbit is over-weight now, so I don't need them.

There are a lot more elegant ways to deal with ballast issues. I wish I had such a problem.

Without the Mickey D's Supersize me solution, things like SS exhaust sytems, accusumps, spare tires and more fuel all come to mind--with more interesting and useful location options.

If you are bound and determined to use your ammo box, it should present no legality issues.

Thanks for the advice and offers!
Shipping does present a problem for the offers...

I realize that there are probably better looking ways to do this.

My thoughts are that if I lose 25# of left side weight (my New Years' resolution) it sure would be easy to pour 25# of shot in a can.

Thanks again,

Todd

I did it the cheap way. 25# plates from walmart. drill, stack 2 to keep the 50# max per mounting and good to go.

Check the GCR...if I remember correctly, there is a minimum and maximum weight for weight:026: I suspect someone could find fault with lead shot. Chuck

I bought some flat 25# weights from Academy Sports today to try them out...

What did you guys use to drill your holes???
My Big Porter Cable drill and a brand new Dewalt bit won't scratch the surface these weights

Todd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toddgreene

I bought some flat 25# weights from Academy Sports today to try them out...

What did you guys use to drill your holes???
My Big Porter Cable drill and a brand new Dewalt bit won't scratch the surface these weights

Todd

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I used a drill press. I forget what RPM, but it wasn't fast. Took a couple minutes for each hole and oil to keep things cool. You might be able to do it with a hand drill, but it would be a bitch.

David

slow speed on a press is good. if your using a hand drill do something to lock it at a low speed. Even pressure and lots of drops of oil to keep the bit cool and fresh.

I've thought about using my MIG welder...
I can burn a hole in anything with that.;)

Todd

my welding can be that bad, but you wont burn a hole that big or deep and the welding material will be hard to burn out.

Patience works very well so does slow speeds. If you know someone with a press or a press body for a hand drill it will make it much easier.

I ran into the same problem with a set of weights I bought. Large drill press, slow speeds, different size bits, etc. after 25 minutes I managed to get a 3/8" hole .25" deep. It appears the damn things are case hardened so it may just be a matter a different set of weights.

Any one ever done the lead melting deal? My friend John Weisberg used to do it, but I held reservation on that technique. Might be okie dokie, might be an industrial accident waiting to happen! Opinions?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lateapex911

Any one ever done the lead melting deal? My friend John Weisberg used to do it, but I held reservation on that technique. Might be okie dokie, might be an industrial accident waiting to happen! Opinions?

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I now rub elbows with John here in Rochester........ I'd avoid melting lead but I'd be OK using it performed. There are a number of places you can get 1/4" sheet. That weighs 16# per sq ft. So 6X12" pieces might be a nice size to stack up. over a pair of 5/8" bolts.

http://www.marsmetal.com/newpages/aakleadsheetpage.html

if you melt it yourself make sure you wear a resparator and do it in a well ventalated area. I have done it in the past to weight down shifter carts.

I used to melt lead a lot when I was apprenticing as a plumber years ago. I think I still have a lead pot ladle and burner around here somewhere.
Of course that could explain a lot.
:blink:

SCCA Rule for IT ballast

l. Ballast may be used. All ballast shall be located in the front passenger footwell/seating area, aft of the firewall and any footwell angle, and forward of the aft-edge of the forward-most passenger door opening, unless otherwsie specified on the vehicle’s spec line. OEM front passenger seat location.

1. It shall be in segments no heavier than fifty (50) pounds, and shall be capable of being removed to be weighed apart from the car.
2. Each segment shall be fastened with a minimum of two (2) one-half (1/2) inch bolts and positive lock nuts of SAE Grade 5 or better, and shall utilize large-diameter, load-distributing washers.
3. Holes may be drilled in the front passenger footwell/seating area floorpan for purposes of mounting the ballast (only), and said floorpan may be reinforced as required for the same purpose.
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If you treat each piece of shot as 1 piece of ballast you might be in violation of and shall be capable of being removed to be weighed apart from the car. and Each segment shall be fastened with a minimum of two (2) one-half (1/2) inch bolts and positive lock nuts of SAE Grade 5 or better, and shall utilize large-diameter, load-distributing washers.
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If you treat the container and shot to be one ballast you might have trouble with and shall be capable of being removed to be weighed apart from the car. if you weld the container to the floor.

If bolted to the floor underneath the shot 1. how do you get to the bolts and 2. when you lift it out won't the shot leak out thru the bolt holes.

Somewhere I read that ballast cannot be shot but I don't know where its written or what sanction has that rule.

speedwaymotors.com sells lead ballast and attaching hardware - never used it, but remember seeing it there.

For a bit, I use a high speed steel/milling bit. Very hard but you need to go slow or you dull it out in minutes.

Dumbell plates from Sports Authority work wonders. They are cast out of cheap material and easy to drill. Make sure you use a good new bit for this project though and keep it going slow and well oiled.

I would not go the shot route.

I purchased my exercise weights from a second hand sporting goods store. I bought the cheapest plates (four 25# plates) with no brand name on them and drilling through them was relatively easy. We stepped up through four drill bit sizes using a cordless drill and it took no time at all. A couple bolts to hold the plates to the floor and all was good. It seems exercise weights are very much a case of "you get what you pay for." In the case of using exercise weights as race car ballast, it seems you probably want to go cheap.

10 dollars a 25# plate works for me. cheaper if you shop around. But I was in a bind and having little luck on the used market around here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lateapex911

Any one ever done the lead melting deal? My friend John Weisberg used to do it, but I held reservation on that technique. Might be okie dokie, might be an industrial accident waiting to happen! Opinions?

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Tried lead shot, on the kitchen stove in mom's cast iron skillet... Bad idea!

Later molded a small charcoal furnace out of plaster, used an air nozzle to get the coal plenty hot and melted the lead in small iron crucible. This worked pretty well.

Now we just buy plumber's lead in 25lbs increments, drill and bolt.