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I totaled my '83 Friday during Test Day. I'm looking at a '85 that is local and need to know if there are any real differences in the shell of an '85 vs. an '83. I'd hate to buy and strip it just to find that mounting points are different for the drive train, suspension, brakes, etc. Should I wait for an '83 or what?
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Thanks,
Sorry about your accident. I had an 1982 that I crashed and moved everything over to a 1985 chassis. I moved the 1982 suspension as whole to the new chassis. I don't think there are many differences between the 83 and 85 as far as the shell is concerned. Obviously the drive train, front suspension, rear axle, etc. are different. I have an 83 in my garage that I was going to make a street car AND a 1985 IT7 for sale if you are interested. I don't have time for either. Check the classified board.
i am pretty sure everthing will bolt up. only thing I am not sure of is the master cylinder, they made a bunch of different ones.
master should be the same assuming braking system is the same (disc/disc or disc/drum)
Sorry about the car :(
Marcus
Dumb da dumb dumb. :015:
Tom, bummer I know the feeling. Are you ok ? Did a better job on my 85 July 10th 2005 at the Farm just after taking the lead in the race. My first comment to you after looking at the photos & knowing what my car looked like I wouldn't jump to quick to get at a new car. Have you ever viewed the "orange chush" photos of the car Russ Marsahll (sp) did at Alanta ? He had his fixed. Look at the car real good before making a new build decision.
I was going to build a new car but decided to build a Spec Miata. The 1981 through 1983 chassis has one suspension featutre which is the chosen feature over the 1984/85. The chosen feature is the rear lower link forward chassis pick-up point is approx 3/4 inch higher/closer to the bottom of the chassis than the 1981/83 cars. In other words the chassis pick-up point is 3/4 inch higher compared to the normal center line or the rear axle. I don't care what the word within the ITA/7 race group is, take a look at what year the FAST E Production cars are built from. This difference helps the rear of the car during suspension movements.
If a RX-7 is converted from rear drum to rear disc the larger diam,eter master cylinder from a rear disc system needs to be installed.
I have a RUST FREE DENT FREE 1982 RX-7 from Oregon City, Oregon with the inside totaly striped out including the floor CRAP. I also have a complete 4 races from new suspension including third link & Panhard. Have other stuff also, trans, motors, fenders, hood, radiators & things.
Tom, IIRC your from the South East. I live in Wisconsin but half way ain't a bad drive. Let me know of any interest. [email protected] 1-414-453-0929
Hey Tom I helped you load yuor car friday. I think the car could be fixed ther are alot of good shops out ther you could ask Russ or I know of a real good shop in Goldsboro N.C .The shop owner is one of the best IT7 drivers in the south east and aslo very well know on this form. Mr Rickey T. Give him a try ,by the way he aslo has a huge lot of doner cars waiting to be given a chance to be built . 919-736-1990
Tom's car has pretty extensive damage on the left rear quarter, which is why I think it would be cheaper/easier just to swap chassis. I'm no body expert and didn't believe that my car could be fixed either, shows what I know.
Conners body shop fixed my front end (and did a great job), but it took them months to do. I've been working with a new shop up in Gainsville called McGraw Collision (770.561.4876). They have a frame machine and do good quick work. Might be worth a trip up there to see what they think.
If you decide to get another shell and need a cage put in call up Billy at ReSpeed (404.310.0835), He's done a few 7s and does really nice work.
If you need other parts or stuff call Atilla, his shop # is 770.720.2039, he probably has 10-15 first gens laying around to pick parts off of.
Sorry about the car man, good to meet you tho...
Thanks guys for the responses. I'm still in some real pain and will go to the Dr. today to see about my ribs. I'm OK as long as I don't move, breath deeply, sneeze or worst of all, cough.
Like crushed said the rear took a good hit and kinked the middle of the rear deck up about 3" which popped the spare tire cover rivets, kinked the RR Q-panel which did not hit anything and busted upward the rear window as there is little glass in the car. I'll get some advice but with the front and rear frame damage I don't know if its worth trying to salvage.
There is an '85 10 miles away for $500 and if everything would fit it sure would be convenient. I'd rather have an '83 to be sure plus my dash and other interior stuff would fit right in. We'll see what happens as I still have to save up some $ and strip the old car. I'll give Rick a call to see what he thinks.
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Dave, are you saying the 81-83 is more desireable because the pickup point is 'higher'? I think your years/wording got intermingled (81-83 chosen feature ... better than the 81/83?) causing me confusion. The rear links were lowered 20mm for 84/85. From some rx history for 1984 model changes... "Mazda reduced the tailhappiness of the RX-7 by lowering the rear trailing arms by 20mm. .... The rear suspension alteration was applied to all models."Quote:
... The 1981 through 1983 chassis has one suspension featutre which is the chosen feature over the 1984/85. The chosen feature is the rear lower link forward chassis pick-up point is approx 3/4 inch higher/closer to the bottom of the chassis than the 1981/83 cars. In other words the chassis pick-up point is 3/4 inch higher compared to the normal center line or the rear axle. ...
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The shell is a gonner as is the axle housing. Once in my shop it is immediately evident that the whole car is bent like a bannana. The drive shaft tunnel is kinked in 3 places and the RR quarter panel and B pillar are kinked which is odd as the hit was on the left side.
Anyway, I'll begin stripping it down this weekend and hope to find another '83 ASAP. If you hear of anything let me know.
I can't believe I worked on the damn thing for 6 months just to destroy it in less than 6 hours. However, the video of the session was worth it. If I knew how to convert from VHS to .mpeg or whatever, I'd post it and let everyone tell me what the hell I did wrong.
Thanks,
***I don't care what the word within the ITA/7 race group is, take a look at what year the FAST E Production cars are built from. This difference helps the rear of the car during suspension movements.***
Steve, do some homework with the Productuion folks & please report back. ;)
David,
Which is better for the cars that don't have the tri-link/panhard (street cars and Spec7's)? The '83 or the '85? I don't have the switch completed from my '83 rustbucket to the '85, so I haven't been able to drive it to notice any difference. I chose the '85 based on advice surrounding the 20mm move in the mounting point.
Jeff
Since they are all on the same spec line, if the part could be changed, wouldn't that be legal, as long as all the rest of that assembly was the same?
I've raced my pro7 (85 chassis) with the mounts in both spots (legal in pro7). The car felt better in the higher mounts, but was faster in the original 85 mounting holes.
Pro7 cars run on 185/60 toyos on stock rims, with a watts linkage, so YMMV.
Marcus
Well, since you trashed an '85, and were going to replace it with an '82, I would say that your feeling is the s2 is better. Plus, Thrash runs an '83 I believe, and he is fast. Your original post was worded that an 81-83 was better than an 81-83. I'm assming higher (closer to frame) gives the suspension increased travel capabilities when the susp is lowered, assuming the frame end is the end that got moved. If the axle end was moved down, then the 84-5 would have additional travel at lowered susp height.Quote:
Steve, do some homework with the Productuion folks & please report back. ;)
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In the spec rx-7 world, s3's seem to be on top.
I shouldn't do this crap so late at night. :birra:
Jeff, to be truthful with the OEM stuff I ain't good enough to know the differende & I did Spec-7 for 4 years with several Q. & R. records.
***Since they are all on the same spec line, if the part could be changed, wouldn't that be legal, as long as all the rest of that assembly was the same?***
Jake, any part can be changed. ;) Being that the CRB CHANGES rules to please I ain't going to argue the point.
David, forget the CRB sniping...is the mod legal or not?
If you like the pickup point on an 81, and you have an old '81 available, with the pick up point part in good condition, is there any legal reason you couldn't simply move the part to your, say, '85 chassis? As long as they are on the same spec line, and you are not creating a combination assembly that couldn't be purchased, it seems like that might be the simple way to go.
dbl post, sorry
***is there any legal reason you couldn't simply move the part to your, say, '85 chassis? As long as they are on the same spec line, and you are not creating a combination assembly that couldn't be purchased, it seems like that might be the simple way to go.***
Jake, as I understand the rule 17.1.4.C.
Each year of 1st gen RX-7 has a series of vin numbers. Ya can't buy a 1984/1985 chassis (an assembly) with the closer to the chassis floor lower link welded to the chassis suspension pickup point. (As a side note, LP/Restricted Suspension Production car people are not allowed to relocate pickup points. ;) ) Second, within the stated rule 17.1.4.C. if ya want to call the chassis an assembly, any updated/backdated components SHALL be substituted as a complete assembly.................bla, bla, bla...........
When all else fails, It don't say ya can therefore ya can't.
O-$hit, I didn't answer your question. NOT LEGAL per ^. ;)
If ya don't buy my line or lines please provide the rule that says ya can carve the pickup point weldment off a 1981/1983 chassis & weld the pickup point to a 1984/1985 chassis.
????? You couldn't go to a Mazda dealer and order an '82 with 20mm lower mounts, nor could you have gone to a dealer and ordered an '85 with 20mm higher mounts.Quote:
As long as they are on the same spec line, and you are not creating a combination assembly that couldn't be purchased ....
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I believe that running a tri-link and pan-hard bar makes the rear suspension change a moot point. With the recent weight reduction for 1st gen Rx-7's in ITA, I would think the LIGHTEST chassis will be the best chassis. I've built 3 gen 1 cars (79, 82, and 84). The 79 was the lightest. The 84 is the heaviest.
I do have one very speculative question though...Why aren't the rear upper links traction bars??? Traction bars are free...
Tak
#29 ITA
SFR SCCA
***do have one very speculative question though...Why aren't the rear upper links traction bars??? Traction bars are free...***
Tak, to my understanding of the ITA rules the upper & the lower are traction bars. Per ruel 17.1.4.D.5.c. traction bars may be added or substituted. On my 1st gen I have a Tri-link (sponge upper traction bar bushings) with lower traction bars made with a internal threaded tube with S.B. rod ends.
If either the upper links or the lower links are not traction bars try disconnecting one set & see how much traction the car has. ;) One set of links on the axle horizontal center line would locate the axle.
As a side note how can someone call the upper links traction bars & not call the lower links traction bars. 0h, I get it, they have nothing to sell for the lower traction bars. :wacko:
David- I read the rules the same way (and have exactly the same suspension setup at the back of my car...). The whole 'traction bars are free' seems like an invitation to change mounting points...the substitution of longer upper traction bars with different chassis mounts has the opportunity of correcting the 4 link geometry...
It just doesn't feel right though! Nuances in the definition of "Substitute"...
No, but you couln't go to the dealer in 81 and get an 85 carb either. Or vice versa. Nor can RX3 dealers sell you a 74 with a 77 transmission. But as they are all on the same spec line, as long as you aren't creating an assembly that never existed, (like swapping gear ratios) I don't see why you can't do this..Quote:
????? You couldn't go to a Mazda dealer and order an '82 with 20mm lower mounts, nor could you have gone to a dealer and ordered an '85 with 20mm higher mounts.
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IF the chassis are the same, EXCEPT for the bracket difference.
If someone can point to the flaw in my logic, please do.
***If someone can point to the flaw in my logic, please do.***
Jake, are you doing selective reading ? Please read my post Mar 5 2006, 12:48 AM page 1..............
So, you think the VIN number makes the difference. Because the year is coded in the vin.
So...........IF we wanted to do this, (A theoretical discussion here), the assembly would be different because the VIN disagreed with the proper setup for the VINs year. Now, if the VIN was swapped as well,...what then?
To take the silly discussion further, ..if that logic holds, you can't put a different gear set in another years case if there's a different p/n, even if the p/n is only a date change, right?
In both cases the actual performace advantage is nil, as they are all on the same spec line.
"I do have one very speculative question though...Why aren't the rear upper links traction bars??? Traction bars are free..." -Tak
#29 ITA
SFR SCCA
Tak, I've never interpreted the rules as calling the upper links traction bars. They are original suspension links that cannot be altered except to change bushing material. The soft upper bushings supplied with the Tri-Link comply with the rules to retain the original links, however they allow the suspension to articulate around the revised geometry of the Tri-Link. Otherwise the axle would be "locked in place" and bending of the body would be required to allow any roll movement. That is in fact what happens when solid bushings are substituted for the Watts link and trailing links of a stock suspension.
Likewise, only the bushing material may be altered in the lower links. You cannot cut the ends off and substitue heim joints.
Traction bars are not "free." One may be added per the rules, and it must fit an exacting definition. Don't see anywhere where a stock traction bar may be removed, so no matter what you call the trailing links, they must stay.
Just my take on the rules.
Jim Susko
***Traction bars are not "free." One may be added per the rules, and it must fit an exacting definition. Don't see anywhere where a stock traction bar may be removed, so no matter what you call the trailing links, they must stay.***
My take on the rule would be that as long as traction bars "may be addded or substituted" (not free when subsituted) a threaded tube with rod ends with the whole assembly being the same length as the OEM traction bar using the same diameter assembly bolts may be subsituted for the lower traction bars. Just as someone many of us know added the Tri-link for the functional upper traction bar.
Thoughts??????????
David Dewherst wrote "My take on the rule would be that as long as traction bars "may be addded or substituted" (not free when subsituted) a threaded tube with rod ends with the whole assembly being the same length as the OEM traction bar using the same diameter assembly bolts may be subsituted for the lower traction bars. Just as someone many of us know added the Tri-link for the functional upper traction bar."
Interesting take, but I didn't have to stretch any definitions to add the Tri-Link as a traction bar. The subtlety here comes with putting very soft bushings in the top links. They still qualify as legal stock links as well. So do the bottom links with all metal bushings pressed in the stock ends.
The difference in our arguments comes down to whether the stock links can be considered to be redefined as traction bars. I think it is a stretch. A traction bar is generally considered to be a supplimentary link solely to prevent axle windup, not a primary locator like the trailing links are. If you take out a traction bar, the suspension should still be fully defined by the remaining links.
The new GCR says it is "A link to an axle housing or hub carrier which resists torque reaction from the wheel by acting in compression or tension." I note the older reference to mandatory heim joints is no longer a part of the definition, which changes things a bit, and that there is a certain appeal to applying this to the trailing arms. Still, whether you could turn around the GCR definition to qualify all of the links as traction bars is doubtful.
Using this logic, then I oould substitute all the stock bushings with foam rubber and create a whole new "traction bar" trailing arm suspension of whatever geometry I wanted using full- as opposed to semi-trailing heim-jointed arms, since the number being "added" is unrestricted. Would you show up in the tech shed with this and tell them that the stock links are all trailing arms so anything similar to them can added? I don't think this would work more than once anyway. This would allow sweeping changes to almost every suspension out there.
Putting it simple, I think by common technical suspension definitions the stock arms are trailing links only.
Jim
i see it jim's way .the 4 links are locating link not traction bars,that's why you have to keep the upper link intact and substitute the foam bushings.the tri link is put in as a traction bar.that's why it's legal.
I think the rear bumper is a traction bar (I think there's at least one piece of steel formed in a bar shape under the plastic). It adds weight to the back end, providing more downforce/traction at the rear wheels. Wonder what I could do with that?????.....
Maybe I'll just pick up 1/10th per lap by learning to drive better; I'm sure there's room for improvement THERE. :eclipsee_steering:
If the OEM links are not traction bars please remove either the upper set or the lower set (without the Tri-link) & infrom me how much traction your rear axle generates. If the only purpose of the four bars is for longitudinal location of the rear axle one set of links at the horizontal center line of the rear axle would locate the rear axle very nicely. ;)
David Dewherst writes:
"If the OEM links are not traction bars please remove either the upper set or the lower set (without the Tri-link) & infrom me how much traction your rear axle generates. If the only purpose of the four bars is for longitudinal location of the rear axle one set of links at the horizontal center line of the rear axle would locate the rear axle very nicely. ;)"
There is a universal language of suspension engineers from which the definitions typically come. A traction bar is different from a trailing link, even though they look the same in many ways and resist similar forces. Usually a traction bar is added after there are a sufficient number of trailing or semi-trailing arms plus lateral control arms to fully define the motion path of the suspension, which the four Mazda trailing link and one Watts link do. The purpose of that bar is to enhance the torsional stiffness of the rear end only in order to control wheel hop, so it should be located purely fore and aft to fit the definition. There are other types of traction bars which don't actually fit the limited GCR definition.
However, if as you argue a link is a traction bar just because traction gets worse when you remove it then literally every suspension link known could be defined as a traction bar. Any argument that is this inclusive is prima facia suspect and generally not accepted by rules makers.
If anyone remains unconvinced, let me know how you do in Tech if they ever check you for your "trick" parts.
Jim Susko
***However, if as you argue a link is a traction bar just because traction gets worse when you remove it***
If you remove either the upper set or the lower set as you well know the axle will rotate untill the Watts links will be in a radial bind acting like the traction bar.
***However, if as you argue a link is a traction bar just because traction gets worse when you remove it then literally every suspension link known could be defined as a traction bar.***
Naw, I wouldn't consider a wound up Watts link a traction bar. Do suspension engineers call a wound up Watts link traction bar?
Traction Bar: A link to an axle housing or hub carrier which resists torque reaction from the wheel by acting in compression or tension.
Acording to the GCR definition (not suspension engineer speak) I will rest my case. I would beleive that anyone reading this post who understands the rear links of a 1 st gen RX-7 & who understands the definition from the GCR would agree that without either set of rear links the axle will have zero traction untill the axle rotates distorting some other rear axle components out of their normal function range.
I beleive that if a Tech would like me to disconnect one set or links he/she would agree in a hurry that the links are traction bars.
So, David, your position is that you have two traction bars on your car?
The upper one sold to you called the Trilink, going from the tunnel to the top of the diff, and two lower ones in the original lower position?
If that's the case, remove one set and see what kind of location control you get.
Basically, it's your argument, but with the words flipped.
I see where you are going with this, but you've left yourself with a car that by your definitions, has only two longitudinal links (the stock uppers) locating the axle, once the traction bars are removed.
Two posts by ddewhurst:
***If the OEM links are not traction bars please remove either the upper set or the lower set (without the Tri-link) & infrom me how much traction your rear axle generates.***
***If you remove either the upper set or the lower set as you well know the axle will rotate untill the Watts links will be in a radial bind acting like the traction bar.***
Post by Jake:
***So, David, your position is that you have two traction bars on your car?***
Jake, when the car was OEM the car had 4 traction/location links/bars. With the Tri-link the car has 3 functional traction/location links/bars. When the car is in the OEM condition the manufacture didn't implement 4 links just to spend extra money. The 4 links were designed into the suspension because the rear axle requires longitudinal location & rotation control.
GCR Glossary definition of traction bar.
***Traction Bar: A link to an axle housing or hub carrier which resists torque reaction from the wheel by acting in compression or tension.***
Jake, please answer the question below using the GCR glossary definition of traction bar. None of your selective speak, use the rule.
If you used whatever words you would use to protest the lower S.B. rod end/threaded tube links within the rearend of my 1st gen RX-7 I beleive that if a Tech would like me to disconnect one set or links he/she would agree in a hurry that the links are traction bars. ;)
Dave,
I see your standing by the GCR definition but for one thing it is not complete. Following your logic almost any link will qualify as a "traction bar." That sends up red flags around the definition and around your logic. and would probably in itself be sufficient for the Competition Board to uphold a protest of your lower arms.
Your argument that if you disconnect something and traction goes down makes it a traction bar doesn't hold water either. It doesn't say that in the GCR. You can't argue that something is a Watts link because if you disconnect it you lose watts.
Even if the name Traction bar is taken as a literal description (which it should not be) your logic is flawed. You are arguing that the definition of water is it makes things wet then anything that wets something is water. That is not good logic. Alcohol wets things, too, but that doesn't make it water.
Semi-trailing arms can also function as lateral locating devices. A Watts link is a lateral locating device. However, following your logic you would look at a semi-trailing arm and feel free to call it a Watts link. It is not.
I hope other readers don't become lured down this flawed logical path. As a Mechanical engineer and practicing Suspension Engineer I know what a traction bar is and have provided readers with an understanding of the nuances that make for a traction bar. 'Nuff said here.
Good race prep is founded on fundamentals like attention to detail, and understanding of suspension geometry and tuning and how to make a car go fast within the rules. Too much attention to twisting definition around to extremes usually isn't productive. You won't go any faster with illegal lower trailing arms, and my stock lower arms with alternate bushing material will pass tech any day.
Jim
Jim, 1st please tell all of we readers what the GCR rule name of the Tri-link upper control arm you sell is. (Darn, you for sales purposes call your part a "Tri-link upper control arm". Which GCR ITCS rule allows a person to change the upper control arm ?)
Anti-roll bar ?
Traction bar ?
Pan hard bar ?
Watts linkage ?
2nd please tell we readers what the total number of different functions your _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ provides. Please don't get into all your suspension engineer speak. Not required & just muddys the water.
1.
2.
3.
Please add more numbers for additional functions.
*** I see your standing by the GCR definition but for one thing it is not complete.***
Oh, now I get the picture. We shall we use Jim's definition of a traction bar. :wacko:
Duh, 1st error for 2006. :015: