Built my own little ballast system

I got this idea off of another STL driver at the last race at Palm Beach; it's easy to take out of the car if need be, weight can be added/removed quickly. It is 1/4" thick steel plate in the center, 1/8" thick steel beams on either side that mount directly to the stock seat track locations, and a steel Gold's Gym threaded dumbell handle welded to the 1/4" thick steel base plate. I will be using barbel weight plates, and right now I'm about 85lbs under weight, so I've got a few plates to add. The next step is to drill a hole through the threaded center section after I have the weights on in order to put a cotter pin through it so the nut can't back out. I'm also planning on having it powdercoated next.

What do you all think about this? I liked this idea a lot better than drilling a bunch of holes into the car, and I can easily add and remove weight as I modify the car.


http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...20522204_n.jpg

You will have to drill lots of holes to make sure the nut can
t back off too far.
I would drill at least a few, but I'd double nut it. The interference can really lock things down.

Off the top of my head, I would say that is not technically legal. Though imho that is fantastic!

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Originally Posted by CRallo

Off the top of my head, I would say that is not technically legal. Though imho that is fantastic!

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No technical limitations to ballast design/placement in Super Touring. Just make sure it's safe!

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Originally Posted by lateapex911

You will have to drill lots of holes to make sure the nut can
t back off too far.
I would drill at least a few, but I'd double nut it. The interference can really lock things down.

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Good call, will do!

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Originally Posted by CRallo

Off the top of my head, I would say that is not technically legal. Though imho that is fantastic!

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I know for SM it's definitely not, but the chief of tech was the one that pointed out the other STL driver's ballast system similar to mine as a "good idea" for me, lol.

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Originally Posted by Greg Amy

No technical limitations to ballast design/placement in Super Touring. Just make sure it's safe!

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Definitely the top priority!

I was considering drilling a hole through each weight plate in the same location that lines up with a hole in the base plate, and then running a huge bolt through them and through the base plate, but I dont know if that would help anymore, or be considered "overkill".

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Originally Posted by Greg Amy

No technical limitations to ballast design/placement in Super Touring. Just make sure it's safe!

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Gotcha. Good to know, wish it was that way across the board...

Are you sure you want that big rod sticking up in the passenger side if you need to get out in a hurry and want to use the passenger door?

Thanks man, that gives me a good idea to go off for my 140lbs I need to add for STL.

There's a bunch of things about this I'm not thrilled by from a design standpoint. I'd personally rather be able to locate the weight to my best advantage, and dislike the single point of failure design shown. ~90lbs is a lot of force at the regular g loading the car will see. at impact loads it's scary. plus, like Jim said, it's in the way. IT rules require a minimum of 2, 1/2" diameter bolts. I think there's a good reason for it, even if it's not required in ST. just my $0.02.

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Originally Posted by jumbojimbo

Are you sure you want that big rod sticking up in the passenger side if you need to get out in a hurry and want to use the passenger door?

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It's going to be trimmed down a bit once I see how high the weights come up. If I can get past the the halo seat and center net, I don't see this as being an obstacle. Plus, don't a lot of cars have a diagonal brace going from the main hoop down to the passenger side footwell mount of the cage, that would cut across any exit path the driver would have? And those seem to be a popular cage design for a Miata?

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Originally Posted by Chip42

There's a bunch of things about this I'm not thrilled by from a design standpoint. I'd personally rather be able to locate the weight to my best advantage, and dislike the single point of failure design shown. ~90lbs is a lot of force at the regular g loading the car will see. at impact loads it's scary. plus, like Jim said, it's in the way. IT rules require a minimum of 2, 1/2" diameter bolts. I think there's a good reason for it, even if it's not required in ST. just my $0.02.

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Chip,

Do you have any suggestions for changing/modifying this ballast system, or a ballast system that doesn't drilling a bunch of holes into the floorboard? I figured I'd get praises for this system after one the tech inspectors even recommended it to me after seeing it on another STL car...

How about the idea of running a bolt or two directly though the weight plates and down through the base plate?

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

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Originally Posted by CRallo

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

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Hm, i like that idea. basically follow the typical ballast setup, but instead of drilling through the thin floor to mount them, mount to the plate?

btw, what kind of weights do you all suggest using?

Or how about this; the weights I was thinking about using have holes on either side to grab. What about running a 3/4" bolt though each sideto down to the base plate, and then a 1/8" steel plate across the top that the center pole and two side bolts go through? Might be easier to take a pic of what im describing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRallo

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

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I was thinking more of your seat bracket plate design like you have done. Just add a thicker plate instead of the scary spear...

You can add additional plates with longer bolts in 4 points, remaining flat with no spear and still removable like a seat.

I like it. Marc cefalo had something like that in an ITR s2000. I don't think it presents an obstacle to exit at all recognizing you will trim down the post.

I have to run 150 pounds in my 968 and made a bunch of holes in the floor to double bolt my weight and wish I had come up with a product like yours. Plus I am always changing weight based on the wheels I run or the scales at different tracks being up to 40 pounds different.

The strength of using the factory seat mounts will be superior to drilling the floor.

Yeah, i probably shouldnt have posted the picture as is. The "spear" will be cut down considerably once the height of the weights is measured, which will be about 6 inches right now, and wont be any different than a long bolt.

http://www.irongrip.com/products/ima...om/24hf_cp.jpg

Here is the style weight I'm planning on using, and with the open grip areas on each side, I will have a 2" x 12" 1/4" piece of steel going across the top of all of the weights with a hole in the center to go through the center pole and a hole on both outer edges to run a bolt through the openings of the weights and down through the base plate, using either 1/2" or 3/4" bolts on either side. The total height of everything will be approx. 6" considering the height of each weight when flat. Or, I can even run 2 bolts on each side, and have two 2" x 12" pieces of steel going across on either side of the center pole. Either way, I will be eliminating the issue of a single failure point.

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

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Originally Posted by TStiles

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

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nice looking setup. smart on there part to offer the weights too and design it so you have to or should buy theirs. Dunno what weight costs... 22 a weight seems steep though and THEN you have to ship it. ALways pros and cons... I'd like to see a better pic, but I AM impressed at first glance.

Anyone use this?

That is a nice piece, but an easily fabbed piece?

check out this site for pre-drilled steel plates - specifically the 12"x12" plates in different thicknesses with 4 holes that could be used for running bolts through; comes in all shapes and sizes. Seems like this could be a good setup for a ballast system utilizing a base plate integrated into the OEM passenger seat location.

http://www.metalplatesource.com/inde...q0h2n2bb8anmv7

I don't like the long threaded rod protruding, waiting to impale something/someone. On mine i have the same baseplate, but have drilled and tapped holes in it to bolt on additional plate(s). Just as fast to change ballast and a lot more compact.

I'm about to delete that first picture i posted, i should have waited until I cut it to the appropriate length of the weights... jeebus. It will be no different than a long bolt when all is said and done; it will be cut so there is nothing sticking up and protruding out once I have the height of the weights measured.

I have also changed the design a little bit and I will have a 1/4" steel plate on top with a center hole for the 1" rod, and then a 1/2" hole on each corner of the square plate (4 total) where I will run a 1/2" bolt down through the bottom of the plate. These 1/2" bolts will run through the grip holes in the weights. The top plate and bottom plate with the 1" bolt in the center and 1/2" bolts on either corner going through will secure the weights in place and eliminate the issue of a single failure point. I'll post up some more pics later this week as I get everything cut and drilled.

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Originally Posted by TStiles

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

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Brings up a good point on all the added weight to rear wheel drive cars in STL. I think you'll see a movement to a regional version of STL with a lower weight for rear wheel drive cars....

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Originally Posted by smbstyle

I'm about to delete that first picture i posted, i should have waited until I cut it to the appropriate length of the weights... jeebus. It will be no different than a long bolt when all is said and done; it will be cut so there is nothing sticking up and protruding out once I have the height of the weights measured.

I have also changed the design a little bit and I will have a 1/4" steel plate on top with a center hole for the 1" rod, and then a 1/2" hole on each corner of the square plate (4 total) where I will run a 1/2" bolt down through the bottom of the plate. These 1/2" bolts will run through the grip holes in the weights. The top plate and bottom plate with the 1" bolt in the center and 1/2" bolts on either corner going through will secure the weights in place and eliminate the issue of a single failure point. I'll post up some more pics later this week as I get everything cut and drilled.

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You are fine man, Im sure the final product will be good.

I think Im going to have to do something similar....sucks that Im at 2100 lbs with a full tank of gas needing to weigh in at 2430 empty with my fat ass. 3 45 lb plates on a setup like yours should do it.

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Originally Posted by coreyehcx

You are fine man, Im sure the final product will be good.

I think Im going to have to do something similar....sucks that Im at 2100 lbs with a full tank of gas needing to weigh in at 2430 empty with my fat ass. 3 45 lb plates on a setup like yours should do it.

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Shouldn't you only have to come in at 2370 with a 1.8L? I thought FWD cars get a 2.5% reduction from the base weight (2430), because I know RWD cars have to add 2.5% to the base weight, making me have to come in at 2490.

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Originally Posted by smbstyle

Shouldn't you only have to come in at 2370 with a 1.8L? I thought FWD cars get a 2.5% reduction from the base weight (2430), because I know RWD cars have to add 2.5% to the base weight, making me have to come in at 2490.

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Strut FWD cars get -2.5%. Civics/'Tegs/etc with a-arms are -0.

GA