Looking to buy a trailer - need some advice.

I'm looking to purchase a open / flat bed trailer. At this time, I really do not want an enclosed trailer. I know it should have two axels.

One major question is if it should have electric or surge brakes? I realize that if it has electric, I will need to get an actuator installed. I looked into this already for my truck; unfortunately it isn't a quick and easy job. I found someone that would do it for $250 (parts and labor). (Toyota Tundra) From what I understand, a trailer with electric brakes is better. Is that true?

I'll only be towing one car - a Honda Prelude (for now). Any particular length you would recommend? Ramps - it would be nice if they slid into the trailer. A tire rack would be nice too.

What else should I look for? I'll make things a little more difficult. I really can't spend more than $1,000 for it.

Thanks for the advice.

I have had a surge brake trailer for about 10 years. I just converted it to electric. The 1 bad thing about surge brakes, if you have to back it up, up a hill. The surge brakes make it much more difficult to do that.

Just remember that the tire rack fully loaded puts a lot more tongue weight on the trailer. The original design of my trailer didn't do well with a set or 2 on the rack, so I just used the 2nd set of "holes" and then re-drilled another set, so it now doesn't change the tongue weight as much. I did loose the ability to raise the hood of the car on the trailer when I re-located the rack.

Electric brakes do give you a bit more "control" since you can dial in the boost when the trailer is loaded, vs. when it's empty.

The advantage to surge brakes is almost ANYBODY can tow the trailer, if you can get the lights working, so it gives you some flexability in that area.

Hope that these make sense. P.S. As soon as I get a job, I'll be looking to replace my open trailer with an enclosed one. Just waiting until I don't work for EDD anymore.




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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit (Bent)
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

$250 for a brake controller and wiring? Really? Check some of the on-line places. I'm willing to be there are adapters for the do-it-yourselfer. My controller was $50 and wiring at the rear (7 pole Round RV style) was $40.

I really like my electrics. Like was said above, it makes backing very easy, plus you can adjust the amount of braking you get and when it comes on. Another nice thing is that you can engage the trailer brakes without using the brake pedal with most controllers. This can help to straighten things out should the need arise.

How big of a trailer are you looking at? Where are you located? How set are you at $1000? I'm not selling mine, but the place I got mine from brand new has some really good deals...

{edit} Duh! I need to learn to read!

I bought the biggest trailer I could afford. This gave me enough room for the car, plus room for the 4-wheeler when I get it. It's a handful to park (20' with dovetail), but it's darn nice to have all that room!
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Bill
Planet 6 Racing
bill (at) planet6racing (dot) com

[This message has been edited by planet6racing (edited September 08, 2003).]

I'm pretty set on $1,000 but as always I could be convinced to spend $1,200. I really can't go higher than this - my wife isn't too thrilled about spending a $1,000. I've been using a tow dolly, which worked, but a trailer would be much nicer.

Unfortunately from what I've learned so far, the Tundra wasn't built to easily accomodate an actuator. I need to splice into some wires and run it back to the rear of the truck. I looked at a Toyota forum about doing it myself; several people recommended against it. I'll definately look around more for better instal prices, but at least it gives me a worst case price. I also don't feel too comfortable doing it myself. I'd probably get it so that when I press the gas the brakes would come on. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

Then go with a surge brake trailer. What part of the country are you in?



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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit (Bent)
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

If you want to avoide the vehicle wiring altogether, you can get a wireless controller. I have one and love it. So far this year I have towed my trailer with three different rigs. If you have your wiring on the trailer set up right, you can plug into all the major outlets. But it isn't cheap. (an understatement) But I think it works far better than any of the wired controllers I have ever used. Plugs into the cig lighter, and multiplexes to the trailer via the running lights.

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]

I'm in CT.

Still doesn't seem like a clear-cut decision.

Hey, read this topic:

http://forums.improvedtouring.com/it/Forum...TML/000101.html

I know it's out of your price range, but it's a hell of a fine deal. Frankly, it's the cheapest you're going to find new, and you don't have to worry about something being broken, rusted, or worn out.

And, as for the brake controller, you can get one of the good ones at NAPA for less than $100. I know we've had some problems hooking up this summer but I'll help you install it for nothin'. I live in Middletown now, just off I-91, and the NAPA warehouse is 2 miles away from me. We can wire up everything in an hour if your truck has a tow package, probably less than 2 hours if it doesn't. If nothing else, you're welcome to come on over and see the trailer and wiring hookup.

Give me a jingle: grega-at-pobox.com

Greg

I tow with a Tundra. DO NOT GET A TRAILER WITH SURGE BRAKES!!!!! The only weak point on the Tundra is the breaks. You will want to be able to adjust the brakes on the fly. If you were to go down a long grade towing 4500# on surge brakes, you will have warped front rotors on the Tundra.

I am trying to think of a nice 16'or 18'2-axle trailer that you can tow with a Tundra. MY Dakota has about the same power and size and we are towing a 20' aluminim open trailer ($5K brand new) with the CRX on it. YES-the size is overkill, but the load capacity allows for several other car types. My Prelude fits perfectly and balances out very well. The CRX sits ~3' behind the front of the deck and we are carrying about 300 pounds of tongue weight that way. I agree that once you start adding things like a winch and battery pack the tongue weight will change. 4 wheels & tires on a rack will account for over 200 pounds.
Brakes-electric all the way for me. The Draw Tite controller I have plugs into the Dakota wiring harness with an adaptor cable; adjust the unit with a thumbwheel.

You need to look at a lot of places for either a new steel trailer or a used one in your price range. There are a few out there built in Texas for what you want to spend. A trailer dealer is another source asmany do take them in on trade. I mention the price of mine only because the steel ones new are about 1/2 the price but depreciate faster and require a higher level of maintenance. If you can find a Bri-Mar grab it as they are very well built. You have a choice of open or closed deck too.

Good luck in your search.

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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow

[This message has been edited by jc836 (edited September 09, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by jc836 (edited September 09, 2003).]

Well, if you work on your race car, I think you can hook up an electric brake controller pretty easy. Its only a couple wires. One to the battery, one to ground, power and ground to the trailer brakes and one wire to tap into the truck brake pedal switch. I only had to run two wires (thick gauge) under the bed to the back of the truck. Thats it!

Quote:

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<font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">Unfortunately from what I've learned so far, the Tundra wasn't built to easily accomodate an actuator. I need to splice into some wires and run it back to the rear of the truck. I looked at a Toyota forum about doing it myself; several people recommended against it.</font>[/b]

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Check with your friendly Toyota dealer to see if they don't offer a "towing wiring set" or the like - my Ford came with a plug-in wire set that provided the necesary power for trailer brakes. If such a wiring kit isn't available, the wiring itself is fairly easy - one constant hot and a splice into the brake light power - I paid to have my last actuator installed b/c I was pushed for time but will DIY the next time.

As for the people that recommended against wiring in trailer brakes, did they have a logical reason or was it more of a "dude, don't F-up your Tundra with non-factory stuff" response.

I have (and like) electric brakes.

You should be aware, however, that living in the NE (and assuming it will not be stored indoors)those brakes will become maintenance intensive.

Stock up on spares.

looks like I should go with electric brakes.

The Tundra has a tow package, but it only has a 4 prong plug not the 7 prong typically necessary for electric brakes. I went to NAPA (and other car parts stores). Some told me that it "should" work and others told me that it won't. I went to Toyota, but they don't have any accessories that would help me.

The people that told me not to do it myself said that they know of several instances where people wired it and it caused damage to the truck. They said with the Tundra it is more difficult than ordinary.

Unfortunately the Tundra does not come with quick connectors. Maybe I'll give it a go...

My advice: Find youself a good deal on a used trailer. Worry more about the trailer and its condition. Deal with whatever kind of brakes it has as long as they work. When you're looking for a "deal" you really can't be picky with this sort of thing.

Quote:

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Originally posted by gran racing:
I went to NAPA (and other car parts stores). Some told me that it "should" work and others told me that it won't.

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Check out a Trailer shop (such as a local camping supply company). As for a quick connect, DrawTite makes such a plug-in and I'd imagine that others would too.

http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/fitguid...ides/T1apps.asp

When I put a controller and hitch on my truck, I looked on the Internet and priced out all the pieces and parts individually.

Then I went and talked to a local hitch place for a quote.

Ended up costing me the exact same for them to do it, except they did the work.

I'm not against doing things myself, but hey, I'm not a complete fool.

Worth checking into, in any case.

Jarrod

try going to www.tekonsha.com
find the prodigy electronic brake controller. this is the one you should get.
go to wiring harnesses page and you will find a plug in harness for connecting to 2002-2003 toyotas.
i suspect that should take care of a good portion of the job. you may still have to run a few wires, but it really isn't a difficult job.

Hey Dave, if you are still working on this email me off line.
[email protected]

Gran Racing,

I am driving a 2002 Tundra and I installed a brake controller and a 7 pin RV plug for my trailer. I can't see $250 for the install. I did the work myself. All it takes is running a wire to the battery with a circuit breaker, running a wire to the trailer connector and converting the 4 pin plug (as in cutting it off) to a 7 Pin RV. E-mail me if you have any questions.

[email protected]

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Paul D'Angelo
73 ITS CENDIV
Indy Region
www.iridiumracing.com

[This message has been edited by paulydee (edited October 07, 2003).]

Most trailer supply places will carry the harness kits for less than $50. Figure about $10-$20 for the self-resetting circuit breaker (available at trailer supply places). The brake controller will run $50-$75. Most trailer supply houses have kits available that plug directly into the factory connectors and are much more reliable than generic splices and are almost idiot proof. These will connect tail lights/brake lights to a generic flat style 4-pin connector. Then add a 6-pin or 7-pin connector adapter (to match your trailer connector) and wire the extra wires to your brake controller and to ground respectively.

The advantage of the 4-pin connector is that if you ever use your tow vehicle for towing something else that uses a standard flat style 4-pin connector, you just unplug from your 4-pin to 7-pin adapter and you're all set.

Use lots of electrical grease on all connectors.