Do I need a Quaife?

Has anyone actually installed one of these and got back to back laptimes? Just wondering, I don't seem to have a problem with wheelsspin, but then, I never had any horsepower, either.

I've got a '90 CRX Si (ITA)

Jon

There have been lots of conversations on the various BBs about differential options in the last month and a lot of them become "tastes great" vs. "less filling" arguments...

There is speed to be found in traction and the gearbox (diff and final drive) is sometimes overlooked when people first put a car together. Some would argue that it is one of the best returns on investment that you can make, lap-time-wise. If cost is a consideration, you might try a solid (welded) diff first, unless the car gets driven on the street at all. Some people think they are diabolical to drive but most of them have never actually tried one, it se4ems... http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

You should also look into clutch-type diff options for the Honda - I understand that there are some good ones. The Quaiffe (a) is expensive, and (B) I THINK can be manufactured to preset, varying biases, so there are "street" Quaiffes and "racing" Quaiffes.

Some folks on the VW side of this game don't think very highly of them, as they still get wheelspin when one corner unloads. A welded dif will NOT let this happen.

Kirk

I was lucky enough to find a Mugen LSD for my CRX autocrosser.

The difference is like night and day. Remember the first time you drove on race tires? Thats the kind of difference.

This was discussed a little while ago. I put a Quaife in my ITA CRX a few years ago and I picked up over 1 second at Sebring short course the next race. You get what you pay for. A Quaife is more expensive but it lasts a long time and it comes with a lifetime warranty. I have over 35 races and numerous test days and I have NEVER had it out of the car since I put it in. I change the oil every 3-4 weekends. I use Valvoline 10w-30. No synthetics, just plain old Valvoline. The guys at Quaife said $15 in oil every 4-5 races or $1200 for a new slip, make your own decision.

These guys that are telling you to weld the diff, they are crazy. None of the TOP drivers in the Southeast (and there are alot of them) are using a welded diff. You will scrub off speed at top end with a welded diff. Spend your money wisely.

If you have any questions, email me and I will give you my pros and cons.

--Mike
[email protected]

Thanks, Mike;

I don't have a dilemna about wether or not to weld the diff or even get a plate type LSD. It seems the Quaife is the ultimate option, even if it hard to spell correctly http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

The premium you pay for a Quaife (not too much right now, they are "on special" for my car will easily pay for itself if you don't have to adjust or replace or rebuild or otherwise worry about running special oils.

My big problem is the fact that I've never had any real wheelspin problems. I've autocrossed the car once or twice, and noticed a tendancy for the inside wheel to spin a "little", but on the track, I can't see it happening.

Yours is the first post I've seen that gave a true back to back comparison: did you also install a lower final drive at the same time or make any other setup changes?

I'm sure, also, that car set-up must impact this heavily. There doesnt seem to be a concensus on spring rates (well, maybe) or what sway bars are best to run.

I've been running NO front bar, but I'm sure if I installed one I'd have a lot more trouble keeping the inside wheel on the ground. I'm also running (relatively) soft springs, 400f/500r, to deal with a bumpy track and tokico ilumina's that may not be up to the task of dampening higher spring rates.

Could you give me an idea of what sort of whellspin troubles you were having, and what setup you are running?

If you don't want to shout it from the rooftops, email me at [email protected]

thanks,

Jon Nelson

PS - Did you install the diff yourself?

After re-reading my last post, I thought I should make it clear that I HAVE raced this car, on a track, and done very well, over a whole season. I did also autocross the car a couple times.

It's a lot harder to find ways to improve when a car works really well!

Thanks again,

Jon

I have or had a lap record at Sebring with a welded diff. ITB VW, not a Honda.
The locked was hard to drive and scary at first, but I took all the rear stiffness out and went 2-3 sec faster. 2:48 to 2:45.4 (Same engine, one year older)
Very fast in the rain. My next Vw will have a locked diff and so will my HONDA. I'll put the 1000$ into cams, like the rest of you guys.

jon a diff of some kind will change your car for the better.i installed a diff from opm two years ago,some wear over two years but still going strong. timmy chapman
its#31 prelude

VW's are completely different than ITA Honda's. Go ahead and weld the diff in a CRX and put a Quaife in an identical car and lets see the difference. The 3 seconds you got was YOU going faster. Over the last 2 years, I have gone 2-3 seconds faster at Sebring and I have not changed the car at all. Just my driving skills.

Fowler, Boustani, Cottrell, Wilding, Raymon, Junkins, Dunn, Muresan, etc. etc. etc. all have slips and not welded diffs. Can you guys beat these guys at any given track????

Maybe we should talk about religion or politics or something that people don't feel so strongly about?

How about "different horses for different courses"? Or Mary Ann or Ginger?

But I'm pretty sure that, at least in Britain where they are made, it's "Quaiffe".

Less filling!

Kirk

track record at kershaw 1:56.6 with a welded in a volkswagon, and i tell u what if i built a honda i would not give it a second thought!

Yes, but we are CRAZY! Bwah-hah-hah-hah!

There is little doubt that the Quaiffe is the ultimate in lds'.

I do have information on an alternative lsd that is much less expensive and is very nearly as effective.

I can be reached ad [email protected]
bob lewis

Just going to pick on you a little bit Mad:

"track record at kershaw 1:56.6 with a welded in a volkswagon, and i tell u what if i built a honda i would not give it a second thought!"

How about a 1:55.7 in a ITC Scirocco with a limited slip. I wouldn't give it a second thought either.

[This message has been edited by metalworker (edited April 10, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by metalworker (edited April 10, 2002).]

Just going to pick on you a little bit Mad

track record at kershaw 1:56.6 with a welded in a volkswagon, and i tell u what if i built a honda i would not give it a second thought!

How about a 1:55.7 in a ITC Scirocco with a limited slip. I wouldn't give it a second thought either.

LOL,

would like to see that 1:55 duplicated...hehe, on another point i need to talk to u about a 16v street car...

I know it's changing the subjet slightly but has anyone had any experience with the Phantom Grip LSD. It seems to be a spring loaded block that fits between the spider gears in the diff...Has anyone used one? and if so have they had any problems with premature diff wear? The only reason I ask it that they are like 1/10th the price of a Quaife. Likewise what is the preffered method for welding a diff? Obviosly a MIG weld I would assume but are any heat quenching techniques used? Any precautions?

------------------
Gordon Galloway
Honda CRXsi
IT2 #32

I haven't used the phantom grip myself, but a friend of mine describes it as "works so well, you can't even tell it's there."

Hmmmm... Phantom grips work so well you can't tell they are there? That's probably the best reason NOT to get one. I'd take my 1/10 of the price of a Quaife and...ummmm... but 1/10 of a quaife. I find it difficult to believe the Phantom gip is of any use at all. Simple, sure.... cheap...that's good too... but I wouldn't bother.

Thanks for the imput, just looking at other options...or in this case waste of money!

yeah... basically all reviews of it that I've heard is that it's terrible. I've also heard that it can lead to tranny damage. Not worth the money, even just to try